problems with clutch pedal after installing transmission

981 Views 29 Replies 13 Participants Last post by tb65m66, 5 mo ago

mrMustangl

Discussion Starter · 5 mo ago

just finished installing my engine and transmission and i went to hookup the z bar linkage. new bushings on both sides. car is a 66 FB, 302 from a 68, with a 4 speed toploader from a 64 fairlane.

i’m having 2 problems.
1. when i fully depress the clutch i can’t put it into gear. car is in the air on stands. car is obviously off but i don’t know why it won’t go into gear. i thought maybe it wasn’t in neutral when i bolted the shifter back on but it rocks side to side like it is. i also have yet to put fluid into the transmission but i don’t see how that would affect it while the gears aren’t spinning. i have 2 qts of 75w-90 that’ll be going in.

2. when i attached my clutch return spring it pulled the clutch pedal further up and it sits about 5 inches above the break pedal. when i depress the clutch with the spring on it drops about 3 inches and then i can feel it engage the pressure plate. when i remove the clutch return spring the pedal sits about 2 inches above the brake pedal and feels more natural, but there’s no return spring.

i have a feeling both of these are related. would adjusting the rod that goes into the fork further out be a solution? i don't know if this means if the spring i have on there is too stiff if it’s pulling the fork all the way back. or if i need to adjust the z bar. the clutch worked fine before i pulled everything apart, same z bar, same transmission.

my thought was if i adjust the nut further out and lengthen it, my pedal would sit lower and i might get a little more length out of my pedal travel. but i’m giving up for the night so i figured i’d ask the pros and get y’all’s input.

See less See more

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

supershifter2

· #2 · 5 mo ago

A dry transmission will be hard to shift and might not shift. Those sliders are a tight fit and need oil. Put oil "regular non synthetic" 75/90 gear oil in it. turn the driveshaft to get oil everywhere. It still might be hard to shift unless the engine is running. I have been using Ford 4 speeds and rebuilding them since 1974.

Reactions: 1

Redneckgearhead

· #3 · 5 mo ago

Sounds like you don't have the clutch pedal stop installed. Do 66s have the pedal assist spring?

Westmus

· #4 · 5 mo ago

mrMustangl said:
.... when i attached my clutch return spring it pulled the clutch pedal further up ...

If you got the springs and pedal stop that are part of the factory setup, the clutch pedal will always rest at a fixed hight (in a '66 that's from the factory level with the brake pedal). The adjustment on the linkage are for getting the throwout bearing clearance right. If you linkage is correct, the pedal resting agaist the stop and TOB clearance right, the clutch pedal should feel and work correctly.

awhtx

· #5 · 5 mo ago

Is the gear oil you have marked GL5? If so you don't want it in your transmission. GL4 is the only one you use.

Reactions: 1

dennis111

· #6 · 5 mo ago

As mentioned, there is a stop that prevents the pedal from rising too far toward the driver. It is mounted here:

and looks similar to this:

As mounted:

If you don't have a stop, get one. It's pretty easy to install (with the proper bolt) while mounted under the dash.

See less See more

3

Woodchuck

· #7 · 5 mo ago

When you talk about the "return spring" are you talking about the one under the dash? That's not the return spring, that's the "Clutch ASSIST Spring". Note the location of the pivot point in the photo below (highlighted in red). When the pedal is depressed the spring goes "over center" of the pivot and actually helps pull the pedal DOWN. When using a diaphragm type pressure plate it may need to be removed completely to prevent the clutch pedal from sticking to the floor during higher rpm shifting.

Tool Bumper Wood Automotive exterior Cable

Ditto on the missing clutch pedal stop, too.

See less See more

22GT

· #8 · 5 mo ago

When properly assembled, you should have (when pulling the lower rod by hand) a 1/8" gap between the rod and the release lever. All of the geometry falls in line once you have done this.
One common problem is people have lost, or fail to install, the nylon bushings at each end of the assist spring. They are vital to proper tension and geometry.

Reactions: 2

mrMustangl

Discussion Starter · #9 · 5 mo ago

awhtx said:
Is the gear oil you have marked GL5? If so you don't want it in your transmission. GL4 is the only one you use.

yes it’s GL5 and labeled as full synthetic. it’s all they have at the parts store anymore

mrMustangl

Discussion Starter · #10 · 5 mo ago

dennis111 said:
As mentioned, there is a stop that prevents the pedal from rising too far toward the driver. It is mounted here:

and looks similar to this:

As mounted:

If you don't have a stop, get one. It's pretty easy to install (with the proper bolt) while mounted under the dash.

okay i’ll have to go take a look for that one, it’s weird that the clutch pedal was fine before i took it apart tho..

mrMustangl

Discussion Starter · #11 · 5 mo ago

Woodchuck said:
When you talk about the "return spring" are you talking about the one under the dash? That's not the return spring, that's the "Clutch ASSIST Spring". Note the location of the pivot point in the photo below (highlighted in red). When the pedal is depressed the spring goes "over center" of the pivot and actually helps pull the pedal DOWN. When using a diaphragm type pressure plate it may need to be removed completely to prevent the clutch pedal from sticking to the floor during higher rpm shifting.

View attachment 875854

Ditto on the missing clutch pedal stop, too.

there is no assist spring, when the previous owners swapped the manual in im guessing they didn’t install that spring. the only spring in the clutch setup is the return spring from the shock tower to the clutch fork.

Reactions: 1

mrMustangl

Discussion Starter · #12 · 5 mo ago

Redneckgearhead said:
Sounds like you don't have the clutch pedal stop installed. Do 66s have the pedal assist spring?

from factory i believe they do but this one does not

patrickstapler

· #13 · 5 mo ago (Edited)

mrMustangl said:
yes it’s GL5 and labeled as full synthetic. it’s all they have at the parts store anymore

DON'T use GL5 in a Ford Toploader.

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: CRC Sta-Lube API/GL-4 Multi-Purpose Gear Oil 85W90, Sta-Lube, 1 Gallon, Hypoid Gear Oil, Yellow Metal Safe, Anti-Rust and Anti-Wear Ep Additives : Automotive

Buy CRC Sta-Lube API/GL-4 Multi-Purpose Gear Oil 85W90, Sta-Lube, 1 Gallon, Hypoid Gear Oil, Yellow Metal Safe, Anti-Rust and Anti-Wear Ep Additives: Gear Oils - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/jgr-04530

mrMustangl

Discussion Starter · #14 · 5 mo ago

patrickstapler said:
DON'T use GL5 in a Ford Toploader.

got it, haven’t put it in yet. do you know where i can find GL4 anymore? oreilly didn’t have it but i haven’t checked other parts stores

patrickstapler

· #15 · 5 mo ago

mrMustangl said:
got it, haven’t put it in yet. do you know where i can find GL4 anymore? oreilly didn’t have it but i haven’t checked other parts stores

I updated my post with links.

Reactions: 1

mrMustangl

Discussion Starter · #16 · 5 mo ago

just crawled underneath the car. no pedal stop. i ordered the stop and the hardware along with the factory return spring at the clutch fork. the one that goes from the shock tower to the fork. i have a different one that isn’t factory. so i might as we get the proper stuff

Reactions: 1

mrMustangl

Discussion Starter · #17 · 5 mo ago

does anyone know how i should adjust the z bar clutch linkage with a diaphragm clutch? i’ve read that there should be zero preload but zero play. if i use the long return spring from shock tower to fork it would be pulling the fork completely off the pressure plate unless i tightened the clutch linkage correct?

dennis111

· #18 · 5 mo ago

mrMustangl said:
got it, haven’t put it in yet. do you know where i can find GL4 anymore? oreilly didn’t have it but i haven’t checked other parts stores

Try NAPA as the usually stock a GL4. Definitely avoid the GL5 at any cost.

Reactions: 2

dennis111

· #19 · 5 mo ago

mrMustangl said:
does anyone know how i should adjust the z bar clutch linkage with a diaphragm clutch? i’ve read that there should be zero preload but zero play. if i use the long return spring from shock tower to fork it would be pulling the fork completely off the pressure plate unless i tightened the clutch linkage correct?

Absolutely use the above mentioned 1/8" free play measurement as mentioned above by 22GT (with spring disconnected) AND then install the spring and let it do its thing pulling the fork forward against the llinkage. Its what you do with our older type clutch forks. It will be absolutely be fine and will help save the throwout bearing for a long life.

Reactions: 1

patrickstapler

· #20 · 5 mo ago

I have both types of clutches (in two different cars). Both are adjusted per the Ford Sop Manual with the correct spring installed.

Reactions: 1

1 - 20 of 30 Posts