Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Some of you may remember this thread I posted about my 289 and whether or not I should rebuild the full engine: https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/what-do-i-have-289-teardown.1157038/

Thanks to everyone's good advice, I was able to get a good plan of attack. Today, I finally made some good headway in getting the engine complete again, so I thought I'd share some pics of my progress. After my Performer intake was deemed to expensive to repair, I replaced it with a Weiand Street Warrior. The '65 289 heads were port-matched on both the intake and exhaust, the valves were back-cut, and new valve seals were installed. I reused the cam (rough Hipo equivalent), lifters, pushrods, and Comp Cams 1.6 roller tip rockers. I went ahead and replaced the rear main seal, oil pump (Melling standard volume) and upgraded the pump shaft to an ARP hardened version. Intake and head bolts were also upgraded to ARP, and all gaskets Felpro. Finally, I added Hipo exhaust manifolds (also ported) and topped the heads with some Cobra valve covers. For paint, I used Eastwood's 2K Aerospray primer and gloss black, which I can't say enough good things about. I am a horrible painter of anything, and somehow I even managed to make this engine turn out well. It was expensive, but still a good value for how much better it turned out than a normal spray paint. I went back and forth on whether to paint the engine with the heads and timing cover installed, but went ahead and painted them separate for a cleaner look. I know it's not correct, but I'm happy with it.

Anyway, on to the pics. Hope you like, and thank you to everyone for your help! Up next is rebuild the 4100, and install the water pump (going with the Edelbrock), fuel pump, fuel line, and distributor (rebuilt and recurved by Dan Nolan @ Mustang Barn).
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
8,717 Posts
Looking very nice. Word of caution, Go ahead and install all of your spark plugs and test fit a plug socket on all 8 cylinders. I ended up doing a little massaging on the HiPo logs at some locations for clearance. For ease of installation, I also reduced the outside diameter of my plug socket by about 1/16" on a lathe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,540 Posts
PB65, the port clean up on the exhaust and the manifolds looks great. I'm worried about the valves and seats however. Did you grind the valves and cut the seats ? The wear patterns on the valves looks like it needed attention. Engine assembly pics look great. That intake is a Weiand 8124, yes ? LSG
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Looking very nice. Word of caution, Go ahead and install all of your spark plugs and test fit a plug socket on all 8 cylinders. I ended up doing a little massaging on the HiPo logs at some locations for clearance. For ease of installation, I also reduced the outside diameter of my plug socket by about 1/16" on a lathe.
Thanks for that heads up - I'll make sure to add that to the list!

PB65, the port clean up on the exhaust and the manifolds looks great. I'm worried about the valves and seats however. Did you grind the valves and cut the seats ? The wear patterns on the valves looks like it needed attention. Engine assembly pics look great. That intake is a Weiand 8124, yes ? LSG
Thank you! Yes, you obviously know what you're looking at (much more than me). I don't believe he was done with the valve work when that picture of the back-cut valves was taken. As part of the head work, he stated he refaced most of the valves and had to lap in some of the seats to make everything up to his standards. In his words, the person who assembled the heads last (NAPA machine shop) obviously just assembled everything right out of the box and, while it worked, it wasn't perfect. The heads were vacuum checked at a performance head shop before he gave them back to me. The guy that did the work is a retired head builder that now does work in his garage at home to pass the time. He came highly recommended and seems to know his stuff. He was a little late in getting the heads back to me because he found a couple things that didn't pass his test (cheap valve seals being one of them), so I feel pretty confident that he wouldn't have used the valves and seats if they weren't good.

Yes - that is an 8124. I bought it based on your recommendation, as it seems to make a little more power than a Performer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
Very cool thread. I found out my OE VIN matching 289 from My 68 has never been bored out or rebuilt and I want to do a similar build. (I’m running a rebuilt 302 for now that came rebuilt with but not in the car) port match w/HiPo manifolds, cam etc

For your HIPO style cam did you need to install screw-in rocker studs? How much did this engine build cost ballpark? PM me if you prefer.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
441 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Very cool thread. I found out my OE VIN matching 289 from My 68 has never been bored out or rebuilt and I want to do a similar build. (I’m running a rebuilt 302 for now that came rebuilt with but not in the car) port match w/HiPo manifolds, cam etc

For your HIPO style cam did you need to install screw-in rocker studs? How much did this engine build cost ballpark? PM me if you prefer.
No, my heads still have the original press in studs. Since the cam is still relatively mild (sub-.500 lift) and I don't really run it hard, I didn't see a reason to upgrade the studs at this time. This engine will spend 99% of it's life below 4,000 RPM.

As far as cost, it's a little hard to say because the machine work and original assembly was done about 15 years ago. It was basically a stock rebuild except for the upgraded cam, overbore, and forged piston upgrade. I have spent about $2,000 on parts so far this round - intake/exhaust manifolds, head work, carb, miscellaneous gaskets/parts, distributor rebuild/recurve, fuel/oil/water pumps, valve covers, etc. I would estimate that if I had to do all of the machine work that'd be another $2,000 or so...so maybe $4,000 for the whole motor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
278 Posts
No, my heads still have the original press in studs. Since the cam is still relatively mild (sub-.500 lift) and I don't really run it hard, I didn't see a reason to upgrade the studs at this time. This engine will spend 99% of it's life below 4,000 RPM.

As far as cost, it's a little hard to say because the machine work and original assembly was done about 15 years ago. It was basically a stock rebuild except for the upgraded cam, overbore, and forged piston upgrade. I have spent about $2,000 on parts so far this round - intake/exhaust manifolds, head work, carb, miscellaneous gaskets/parts, distributor rebuild/recurve, fuel/oil/water pumps, valve covers, etc. I would estimate that if I had to do all of the machine work that'd be another $2,000 or so...so maybe $4,000 for the whole motor?
Again this sounds very similar for what I'm going to do! I was thinking about the 4-5k ballpark and 250-300 HP. Kind of dithery when I have such a nice torquey 302 in there...but it's a bit trucker-ish, and I was blessed with such a good OE matching 289 block. Planning to bore to .020 and do the HiPo Cam, solid tappets, HiPo manifolds and port match & polish. Maybe extra goodies if I can afford, such as screw in studs. Have to talk to some builders. Labor is pricey out here in MD/VA near D.C.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,734 Posts
Looking Great!
 
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Top