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Discussion Starter #1
If the pics don't show up, try going here.

I did all I could do on my fastback (trunk, floors, cowl etc.). The rest I decided to farm out and things are starting to move now. The car just returned from the media blaster with a quick primer coat to prevent flash rust. The left rear quarter was crap and is shown here removed with the new panel and a new outer wheel house ready to hang.
http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/439b27acz4646c6ed/e49e/__sr_/5258re2.jpg?phw_B6DBDWJcSU5Z

Blasting reveals all. A PO had patched the right rear quarter and as can be seen here did a bad job of it. This one will be coming off as well.
http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/439b27acz4646c6ed/e49e/__sr_/1044re2.jpg?phw_B6DBhiOVHWzg

Another spot that I had attempted to fix but kind of botched was to repair some very old accident damage in the left front. Here you see the donor piece welded in by the shop. Not finished yet but looks to me like they got it right. Still will need to punch the hole for the fogs and one for the AC line. So far these guys seem to be doing some good work. More later.
http://us.a2.yahoofs.com/users/439b27acz4646c6ed/e49e/__sr_/781fre2.jpg?phw_B6DBPLvfuoab
 

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I would have never thought you needed that much work with your signature pic! Nice work!
TJ
http://webpages.charter.net/tjfastback66/mustang%20rs%204.jpg
 

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Congrats, Drew! Drop me a PM with your cell again, I need to call and "commiserate" ;). Hope all's well with you and the family, TTYL.
 

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I gotta say - each time I see your signature, I'm reminded that Emberglow is one of the most striking colors on an early fastback! Quite a car you've got there.
 

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Quarter patch doesn't look as bad as most I've seen. You planning to do full skin on other side or try to re-do PO work?

Nice progress BTW,
 

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What's wrong with that rear quarter patch? Was it brazed in and you want it butt welded?

The metal looks sound, and the fit looks good, so what is motivating you to R&R it? Just curious.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the comments guys. Yeah Kent and Chris, the right rear quarter doesn't look that bad, I may have been too hard on the PO. But its got a big lap weld scar visible inside the trunk which I never liked and the metal forward of the wheel well is swiss cheese so some sort of patch would be required. Body guy said a lot of bondo was used along this seam to get the shape right. We are going to go with a full skin on that side.

Rust and bondo are evil and some guys are real good at hiding it. This car actually won a concourse MCA event after the PO did the work, he was good. This time it gets done right.
 

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But its got a big lap weld scar visible inside the trunk which I never liked and the metal forward of the wheel well is swiss cheese so some sort of patch would be required. Body guy said a lot of bondo was used along this seam to get the shape right. We are going to go with a full skin on that side.
You can hide that lap weld inside and outside pretty easy UNLESS the patch was brazed in (which is why I asked). You would simply re-stitch weld it and grind the weld back down (can't do this if it was brazed, at least, can't fill it with steel). The factory "sound deadener" in the trunk should hide any flange that is evident. Any body guy worth his salt should be able to get that panel so close to the factory lines using a hammer and dolly that only a very thin coat of bondo should be necessary (no more than you would use with a full quarter, and I would suspect less).

I'm just a proponent of keeping as much factory metal as possible. Add to that, I'd hate to see you paying for extra work that you don't really need. All the more so if the fit of the original job was SO GOOD that you won an MCA. But hey, to each his own.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Don't know if it was brazed or not. BTW, I didn't win an MCA, a PO in 1989 did so some of the previous work was starting to show through. Agree with you about saving the metal but that would require another (or larger) patch welded in the front of the wheel well as that part of the quarter is now shot. It actually did have sound deadner applied and still stuck out. Thanks for the advice, I will discuss the possibilities with the shop.
 
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