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That is exactly the website I used. I used swedged tubes which added to my total cost. Since you can weld you could just use some steel tubing with nuts welded on with heim joints and grade 8 fasteners. I just used some plate steel to make the front brackets with multiple adjustment holes. I cut an old pair of slapper bars for the part where the bottom of the heim attaches to the spring bracket. The actual Cal tracs I believe use a pressed pin for the part that pushes against the spring. I just used a piece of threaded rod which ended up bending before I reinforced it with a slightly bigger OD piece of steel tube. It has worked well. I dead hooked with street radials at the drags and shattered my 8inch so now I have a 9inch. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #42
I had another long week of work this past week, 57 hrs. I had to pick up furniture today for my daughter and have a final walk through to go to tonight and a coworkers going away party to attend. I did squeeze in some time to work on the mustang. I was able to weld about 95% of the passenger quarter panel on today. It's slowly looking like a mustang again. Haven't snapped any pictures but it looks no different than when it was clamped in place. I plan on installing the axle so I can roll the quarter panel lip before I weld that part of the panel to the outer wheel tub. I have the Eastwood fender lip rolling tool.

I also had to replace the pull cord on my weed eater today, always something. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Made some progress today and my son was able to help. He almost has the front core support removed. Has all the welds drilled. Just need to work it a bit more to get it all removed.

I welded the passenger side outer tub and quarter panel on today. Just needs a few more welds to be complete. It will be a couple of weeks before we get to work on it again. E57F3109-A8B7-44C1-9F91-E60CE729ABBC_1569179174119.jpg
 

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A Dynacorn outer wheel house? How does that one fit? My nameless wheelhouse had a horrible fit...so much modification to get it to work I am thinking of not using the one I have for the other side and returning it for a Dynacorn unit there. In particular...did you have to section yours to get the bottom rear lip to fit the trunk drop off? And what about the radius inside the wheelwell...I had to work that for hours today...and it still doesnt look great...its a good thing I will be rolling the fenders otherwise it would annoy me whenever I took off the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #45
I loved the way they fit. I didn’t have to modify a thing on the outer tubs. Passenger side didn’t match the the inner tub that well but matched the quarter panel perfectly and the drivers side fit great to both the inner DSE tub and quarter panel. I suspect passenger side DSE mini tub may have been slightly off but again it all went together very well.

The quarter panels took a little massaging to get to fit well. Very happy with the Dynacom rear frame rails and outer tubs.
 

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Discussion Starter #46
Yesterday me and my son picked up 418 stroker for a price that was to good to pass on. Forged steel crank, H beam rods, complete from intake to oil pan. It has 6,000 miles on it. I will contact the shop that built next week to get the cam specs. I have pictures of the paper work when it was built but no cam specs listed. Just that it was a custom grind hydraulic roller cam.

Next week I pick up the Pro Motion built T5 that includes a brand new steel flywheel with a brand new RTX twin disk clutch.

The funds used for these purchases were for the body but I couldn’t pass these deals up.
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Made a little progress today. Got the rear window pain welded in place and finished welded up the drivers quarter panel. Also did a little more prepping for the core support.

Started to measure the cowl location but I think I will get the car blasted before I remove the cowl. Just got a quote of $600 to dustless blast it.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Picked up the Pro Motion built T5 today. Very pleased with the purchase. Got the RXT clutch kit, steel flywheel, brand new line lock, new ARP flywheel bolts, Steeda shifter, stock bell housing and block plate. 09E138B7-26AB-4AD1-9FFE-E4EFC9E63E05_1572121882470.jpg
 

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Made a little progress today. Got the rear window pain welded in place and finished welded up the drivers quarter panel. Also did a little more prepping for the core support.

Started to measure the cowl location but I think I will get the car blasted before I remove the cowl. Just got a quote of $600 to dustless blast it.
Heh, one of the few panels that is still original on my car. $600 to blast the entire car? Is that inside and out?
 

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Discussion Starter #51
I do not need the entire car blasted. It’s only the roof, door jambs, engine bay, firewall inside and out, fenders and the tail light panel. The rest of the car is all new metal. The core support is new and the towers will be removed for the MII swap. So not much left on the car that needs blast. Even the cowl will all be new.
 

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I need to blast my entire car(probably do it myself) even though most of it is new metal, it needs to go down to bare metal and blasting is simply the fastest way in some areas(interior and undercarriage in particular). I just dont trust whatever "EDP coating" the panels come with to be a good base for anything. Or maybe just blast the undercarriage/interior/engine bay might be the best plan of attack...then there is no risk of warpage to the exterior
 

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Discussion Starter #53
I need to blast my entire car(probably do it myself) even though most of it is new metal, it needs to go down to bare metal and blasting is simply the fastest way in some areas(interior and undercarriage in particular). I just dont trust whatever "EDP coating" the panels come with to be a good base for anything. Or maybe just blast the undercarriage/interior/engine bay might be the best plan of attack...then there is no risk of warpage to the exterior
Agreed, for the inside of the car I'm not as worried. Most of it may be blasted off by blasting what's left of the original metal on the inside. The larger outside panels I will sand down myself before epoxy primer is applied. My floor is not welded in yet either and will not be until the car gets blasted. My quote was based on photos and ranged from $550 to $850 from three different dustless blasters.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
A little progress today. I wanted to weld it all in but I was having trouble seeing y welds with the garage door open. The sun light behind me made it to hard to see. So I call it a day and will weld both pieces in another day.
 

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I do not need the entire car blasted. It’s only the roof, door jambs, engine bay, firewall inside and out, fenders and the tail light panel. The rest of the car is all new metal. The core support is new and the towers will be removed for the MII swap. So not much left on the car that needs blast. Even the cowl will all be new.
Ok that makes sense. I actually have a new cowl too. Did you have trouble with the install or did it drop in pretty good?
 

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A little progress today. I wanted to weld it all in but I was having trouble seeing y welds with the garage door open. The sun light behind me made it to hard to see. So I call it a day and will weld both pieces in another day.
Lucky, you were able to retain the driver side apron...mine was replaced badly at some point like a lot of other panels in my car(on the other hand I guess its ok since it was replaced it would have had the wrong VIN stamped on it anyway since the replacement came from some other car)
 

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Discussion Starter #57
Ok that makes sense. I actually have a new cowl too. Did you have trouble with the install or did it drop in pretty good?
I haven't tackled the cowl repair yet. I've read and was told today it will require some modifications to fit but its very minor.

I will be returning the lower cowl panel today and ordering the complete cowl from NPD. When I first ordered the lower cowl I did not know they sold the upper and lower together. It wasn't until later that I stumbled on the complete cowl which is only known if you read the description, or I would have ordered the complete cowl when I had ordered all my panels the first time. Lucky, NPD is allowing me to return the lower panel and get credit towards the complete cowl. Which I have to create a shipping label tonight to return it. NPD already has my credit card info and they are waiting for my return before they ship the complete cowl. NPD has be great to deal with since I started buying from them this past January when I bought the coupe.

My plan is to wait until I get the car blasted before I tackle this cowl panel. This way I will not have sand gathering inside the cowl when it's blasted. If I do the cowl before blasting I will seal off the cowl area to prevent the sand from entering the cowl. I suspect I will install the cowl before blasting as I tend to get impatient. lol
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Lucky, you were able to retain the driver side apron...mine was replaced badly at some point like a lot of other panels in my car(on the other hand I guess its ok since it was replaced it would have had the wrong VIN stamped on it anyway since the replacement came from some other car)

When I first bought the coupe, I was surprised at how solid the front frame and inner fenders were. Now the rear frame rails, floors and cowl are all another story. It's a good father son project so I don't mind the work we are putting into the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Saturday was a productive day. Finished welding the front core support and inner fender. I also made a couple of small patches and welded them in. I even started inspecting the front fenders for repair work and rolled the lip on the front fenders. By the way hammer 1 Bob 0. My left palm took a hit and bruising to show my loss in the battle.

Got a third quote for blasting and it’s $850. But I’ve added both fenders and a door to the list. The other two quotes did not include these items. The higher quote includes putting down plastic and cleaning up. The other two quotes did not include this.

The complete cowl panel will be here this week and I ordered the patch for the inner fender brace. I will use the old quarter panels to make the outer fender repairs.

Hope to start on installing the Rod & Custom front end this week/weekend. Then I will tackle the cowl.
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You can keep sand out of the cowl easily enough with duct tape over all the openings(hand-sand the vent fins at the windshield)....and even if it gets in there accidentally, you can just vaccuum it out by snaking a hose into the vents from below...you just want to avoid blasting through the fins at the windshield. As for the modifications required for the 67 lower...yes...they are rather minor, but I had trouble with the windshield wiper holes and had to enlarge them and cut a small keyway with a metal file for them to work with the 66 wipers...trimming the front edge is no big deal(just don't cut too much like I did...luckily not a big deal since I have that rectangular tubing running under there)
 
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