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Discussion Starter #61
You can keep sand out of the cowl easily enough with duct tape over all the openings(hand-sand the vent fins at the windshield)....and even if it gets in there accidentally, you can just vaccuum it out by snaking a hose into the vents from below...you just want to avoid blasting through the fins at the windshield. As for the modifications required for the 67 lower...yes...they are rather minor, but I had trouble with the windshield wiper holes and had to enlarge them and cut a small keyway with a metal file for them to work with the 66 wipers...trimming the front edge is no big deal(just don't cut too much like I did...luckily not a big deal since I have that rectangular tubing running under there)
My plan is to finish/paint the inside of the cowl and then glue the panels down. I will spray a washable sealer over the finished cowl that will wash out later. This way I can spray primer and paint that will not stick to the inside of the cowl. The glue I will use has little beads that will set a thickness of glue to hold the panels in place. So if I do replace the cowl prior to blasting, I will have to cover up all the openings to prevent water and sand from entering.

Thanks for the tips on what to look out for when replacing the cowl panels. Those are the things that can really make the job easier and less painful. I will try to take pictures of all the little things needed to make it fit for others that may need the information.
 

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Discussion Starter #62
Tonight I started removing all of the front suspension and got one of the towers removed, rough cut out. It's quicker with a cut off wheel but it was a perfect time to teach my son how to use a cutting torch. He clogged up the tip so I need to clean it, but we did get one tower out and he learned a few things on how to remove suspension parts like tie rods and such.

Hope to be fitting the Rods & Custom front end by the weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #63
Finished removing towers today and grinding all the spot welds to clean up the left over metal from the suspension mounts.

The new MII is just sitting in place. I still need to prep all the metal surfaces, level car and layout my center lines before I can weld it in place.
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Which kit are you using? I know its not Heidt's(I used one of their kits on my last mustang myself)

P.S. And why go MII at all? Its not like you need the space.
 

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Discussion Starter #65 (Edited)
Which kit are you using? I know its not Heidt's(I used one of their kits on my last mustang myself)

P.S. And why go MII at all? Its not like you need the space.

Rod & Custom MII kit. Bought from a member on here. It’s set up for a mod motor right now. I will order the SB mounts from R&C and weld them in after I get the rest it installed.

I couldn’t have rebuilt my stock front suspension for what I paid for the MII set up. Trust I priced everything out and it was to good of a deal to pass up on. Plus my towers were all torched up from the PO putting the Boss 302 engine in there. There had to cut up the part of the above the engine mount area to get the headers to fit. So add the cost of repairing the towers and converting to disk brackets and more. This MII kit was a no brained.
 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
Today’s progress was finish trimming the towers and laying it all out for a test fit. The passenger side upper bracket will need to be shimmed to level it out. Slight gap under the straight edge. Drivers side is dead on.

I like to walk away at this point and just think it all over. I don’t want to rush welding it and make a mistake.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
I need to get in the home pc and see if my last post is showing so many duplicate photos like I see on my phone. Not sure how that happened.

Tonight I finished the prep. Tack welded the main cross member in place and clamped the upper mounts in place. Then mounted the control arms and spindles to see how it all fits and looks.
 

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It all looks good! One thing I was never happy about with the Heidt's kit...and it looks the same for the R&C kit...is the slotted alignment holes....under spirited driving the alignment has been known to slip with Mustang II type front ends(aside from versions like Heidt's Superide which uses a fixed sleeve and uses heim joints to adjust the UCA alignment). If I were you, I would consider finding a way to modify it....maybe copy the Superide system...the end goal is of course to keep the UCA bolts from slipping under heavy cornering, I am sure there are several ways to do it(Maybe some bolts threaded through some angle iron to act as an emergency stop in case the alignment bolts come loose...if you have them almost but not quite touching the control arm crossbar it would hold the alignment pretty close in case it did happen. I would be inclined to try a permanent solution myself if I thought it would work(get it aligned...take a bolt centerline measurement, then weld up the rest of the slot, but not sure how much other suspension components move around requiring adjustment there). The perfect solution would be to turn the arm mounting bolts horizontal with an angle iron pad(gusseted of course)and use shims/spacers of some type for adjustment, but not sure that is possible with the way the UCA is designed.
 

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Discussion Starter #71
It all looks good! One thing I was never happy about with the Heidt's kit...and it looks the same for the R&C kit...is the slotted alignment holes....under spirited driving the alignment has been known to slip with Mustang II type front ends(aside from versions like Heidt's Superide which uses a fixed sleeve and uses heim joints to adjust the UCA alignment). If I were you, I would consider finding a way to modify it....maybe copy the Superide system...the end goal is of course to keep the UCA bolts from slipping under heavy cornering, I am sure there are several ways to do it(Maybe some bolts threaded through some angle iron to act as an emergency stop in case the alignment bolts come loose...if you have them almost but not quite touching the control arm crossbar it would hold the alignment pretty close in case it did happen. I would be inclined to try a permanent solution myself if I thought it would work(get it aligned...take a bolt centerline measurement, then weld up the rest of the slot, but not sure how much other suspension components move around requiring adjustment there). The perfect solution would be to turn the arm mounting bolts horizontal with an angle iron pad(gusseted of course)and use shims/spacers of some type for adjustment, but not sure that is possible with the way the UCA is designed.
I agree with you points. For me I could not have replaced my stock suspension for what I bought this kit for. I also have a PS rack, disk brakes and coil overs.

My guess is the arms would want to move inward. I could simple add an adjustable stop to each bolt. There’s a couple of ways to improve and I’m not sure I’m up for completely redesigning the upper mount.

Not sure how much hard cornering the car will see but I would like to run it once at Sebring, if I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Today I removed the MOD motor mounts from the crossmember, pulled out a spare short block to use for mock up and started mounting the bell housing to it. I hope to set it all in this Saturday and try to weld in the SB frame mounts and start fabbing a cross member for the T5. I may also start planning out the X brace that will connect the frame connectors together and maybe it will house the T5 cross member.
 

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Now is your opportunity to shove that engine as far back and as low as you can reasonably get it. It does raise a question though...do the existing T5 crossmembers on the market work with a MII conversion?

P.S. I have a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter for a T5 I picked up probably 10 years ago still sitting on the shelf if the one you have isn't up to the task.
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Now is your opportunity to shove that engine as far back and as low as you can reasonably get it. It does raise a question though...do the existing T5 crossmembers on the market work with a MII conversion?

P.S. I have a Steeda Tri-Ax shifter for a T5 I picked up probably 10 years ago still sitting on the shelf if the one you have isn't up to the task.

That is exactly my plan, move the engine back and down. I have a truck oil pan so it's pretty deep in the front. So I'll see how it fits and maybe try to get some measurements from an aftermarket oil pan and see if I can gain any more room. Just hope I don't throw off my header fitment. Can't afford to buy headers right now.

As for the T5 cross member and the MII front, I would have to ask R&C and see if they have an answer or someone on this board. I planned on making my own from the start along with the X brace connecting the sub frame connectors. The money I would spend on a T5 cross member can buy the material I need to make everything else.

I have a shifter but PM a pic and a price. My current shifter is beat up.
 

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Discussion Starter #76
Spent several hours today figuring out which mount went to which side trying to fit the engine in place so I could weld in the frame mounts. Only to later discover my real struggle was trying to use a truck oil pan. Turns out it’s deeper than the fix body 351w oil pan.

So I stopped working on it and now I’m searching for an oil pan. Looks like an 84 or later crown Vic oil pan will work. May just break down a buy a new one but some of the reviews say they all fit like crap and leak. Even the ford conversion pan that’s sold.
 

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Being sheet metal...I would buy some new aftermarket pan and cut and weld it into the shape you want. As long as you are starting with new steel its pretty easy. I wouldn't suggest it if it were cast aluminum...but you know as well as I do how easy it is to get a solid weld on sheet steel...all you need is some pan that fits the block, cut the rest away, make a new pickup(or modify an existing one) and while you are at it, install some trap doors
 

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Discussion Starter #78
Being sheet metal...I would buy some new aftermarket pan and cut and weld it into the shape you want. As long as you are starting with new steel its pretty easy. I wouldn't suggest it if it were cast aluminum...but you know as well as I do how easy it is to get a solid weld on sheet steel...all you need is some pan that fits the block, cut the rest away, make a new pickup(or modify an existing one) and while you are at it, install some trap doors
A new correct pan is only $130. Prefer to find a real ford pan if I can. Have a buddy in Ohio who may have one.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
I ended up buying the ford motorsport swap kit to get the correct oil pan. I got the motor mounts tacked in yesterday and started on the transmission crossmember and my welder ran out of gas. If the mounts were the correct height then I have lowered the motor 1/2 inch and moved it back about 1.25. Since I bought the MII kit from another member it was bought for a MOD motor. The mod motor cross member has a notch cut in the back and my mounts are in this area so I will have to weld all that up with a few pieces of metal. I plan on adding a vertical brace to each side for peace of mind.
 

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Wow, great progress!
 
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