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Discussion Starter #81
I tried to use the original 66 crossmember and the 95 crossmember to make one for my setup.

That did not turn out so well so today I started from scratch and made a much nicer part.
 

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Always so much easier to start from scratch and make your own. My trans bracket is currently just a piece of angle iron tacked to my SFCs with a drop pocket for the mount....but that simply isnt going to work because of exhaust clearance issues(longtube headers do that), so I get to re-make it pretty soon. Unfortunately the trans mount holes for the MT82 end up probably 2 inches further back than yours so I am not entirely sure I want to use the tunnel support to hang it from( I imagine it putting too much twist on the through-bolts mounted that far back)
 

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Discussion Starter #83
Always so much easier to start from scratch and make your own. My trans bracket is currently just a piece of angle iron tacked to my SFCs with a drop pocket for the mount....but that simply isnt going to work because of exhaust clearance issues(longtube headers do that), so I get to re-make it pretty soon. Unfortunately the trans mount holes for the MT82 end up probably 2 inches further back than yours so I am not entirely sure I want to use the tunnel support to hang it from( I imagine it putting too much twist on the through-bolts mounted that far back)

I agree. I was just in the mood to try and get something going so I started cutting up what I had to see what it would look like and it looked so bad
i won't even take a picture of it. lol

I just needed to slow down and give it some thought. I'm very pleased with my crossmember.

I haven't had time to go back to my friends house and finishing milling out the two pieces of steel for my small vise. I'm trying to make a panel flange tool for the filler panels that came with the MII kit. They will fill in where the towers use to be.
 

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I agree. I was just in the mood to try and get something going so I started cutting up what I had to see what it would look like and it looked so bad
i won't even take a picture of it. lol

I just needed to slow down and give it some thought. I'm very pleased with my crossmember.

I haven't had time to go back to my friends house and finishing milling out the two pieces of steel for my small vise. I'm trying to make a panel flange tool for the filler panels that came with the MII kit. They will fill in where the towers use to be.
When I installed the Heidts kit...it came with filler panels that I just seam-welded in(they were meant to be bolt-in, but I filled the holes). You could probably just pick up filler panels from anyone who sells MII kits for about $50 a set...no reason they need to be able to be unbolted...the UCAs can be installed and removed from the notch on the bottom of the filler panels
 

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Discussion Starter #85
When I installed the Heidts kit...it came with filler panels that I just seam-welded in(they were meant to be bolt-in, but I filled the holes). You could probably just pick up filler panels from anyone who sells MII kits for about $50 a set...no reason they need to be able to be unbolted...the UCAs can be installed and removed from the notch on the bottom of the filler panels

I have filler panels from Rod & Custom. I just want to put a flange on the edge so the filler panel will sit flush with the inner fenders. I will weld them in and a little body work to give it a flat smooth look.
 

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Removed the engine block and transmission today so I could finish welding in the motor mounts.
I just looked through your build thread for the first time. When I noticed the motor mounts your crossmember came with I couldn't help but think they looked flimsy and could use some bracing. Then I was happy to see that you're making some new ones for your engine - AND they are definitely going to be nice and stout!

Keep up the good work, your build is looking amazing.

Also, I'm digging the upper control arm adjustment slots. You should be able to get all the camber and caster you could ever want out of those!
 

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Discussion Starter #88
The son and I got to work on the mustang again today. We started drilling the spot welds out to remove the cowl. We have most of it done. Hoping we can remove the cowl tomorrow.

I was going to perform the mods to the steering column but I’m missing the piece that connects the old shat to the D shaft. I will contact R&C tomorrow and order that piece.
 

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Discussion Starter #89
I as Thursday off from work so me and the son made a little more progress on the mustang.

Got the old cowl removed and test fitted the new replace cowl. Also had my son welding up and few spots he made a mistake on.

My son god bless him tried to start the cowl removal without me. I didn’t mention this before but he drilled through all three layers and did not use the spot weld drill tool. I was proud he tried to surprise me and get work done without me. He surprised me and I loved it. I was more proud of him for trying something on his own no matter what the extra work may be.

We would work on the mustang some more this weekend but we have some interior house painting to do. We may be trying to sell our home and find something with more garage space.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Haven’t had much time to work on the mustang. Trying to sell our home so I’ve had a lot of painting and other upgrades to do to the home.

I started making a panel flange tool a couple months ago. I had to make one because I needed more of an offset flange than the flange tool you can buy will make. Today I finished machining it and got to try it out.

I broke the vise I was using so I had to come up with another way to keep the two pieces in alignment when using them. I drilled out the threaded holes in one jaw and used the screws that held the jaws in the vise as alignment pins. The screws were threaded in one jaw and then a slip fit in the other jaw. This kept them in alignment with each other.

Turns out using the press was a much easier and faster method to flange the panel than the vise.

I’m pretty happy with it.
 

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what are you needing a flanged panel for? It is looking good. Shock tower delete panels?
 

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Oh man, I am feeling the pressure to try race you to the finish ;). Looking good, you can't be far from the point it goes on the rotisserie now.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Oh man, I am feeling the pressure to try race you to the finish ;). Looking good, you can't be far from the point it goes on the rotisserie now.
It could go on a rotisserie soon, if I had one or better yet the room to even use one. My progress has slowed because we decide to list our home for sale. We put an offer in on a home that has a larger garage but its contingent on the sale of our home. So that brought on new carpet, painting walls and trim, new faucets and so on. The funds are my biggest hold up right now.

It's been a year since we picked up the car and I thought I would have it in primmer by now. Maybe by next fall it will have all the panels on and in primmer and rolling.
 

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It could go on a rotisserie soon, if I had one or better yet the room to even use one. My progress has slowed because we decide to list our home for sale. We put an offer in on a home that has a larger garage but its contingent on the sale of our home. So that brought on new carpet, painting walls and trim, new faucets and so on. The funds are my biggest hold up right now.

It's been a year since we picked up the car and I thought I would have it in primmer by now. Maybe by next fall it will have all the panels on and in primmer and rolling.
Not having a rotisserie wont stop me from building one:



build one like this...total cost about $100 or so but instead of 4x4s, just use 4 2x4s cribbaged together(that way you dont compromise the stregth...assuming they notched out the 4x4s halway to do this...that is still only as strong as 2 2x4s because of that notch...better just to start with 2x4s to begin with and install some check blocks for safety....anyway, after you are done with it, just take out all the lag bolts and store it in a shed or something....takes almost no room
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Not having a rotisserie wont stop me from building one:
Now that took some work and I use to be a carpenter. lol

If we can get this new home, I will more than likely spend the money on a two post lift and use it. Unless I got a good deal on a rotisserie. There's one for sale locally but again, I just don't have the room for it now. If I did cram it into my garage I couldn't walk around it. So for now I will just dream. lol
 

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just read your entire thread. good work in here too. i love seen cars put together with owner designed and fabricated parts ! will be following you
 

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Bob, nice talking to you today.
You car is going to be awesome.

I do have a couple more questions when you get a chance.

After going through your thread, I wanted to ask a few questions about the flange tool you used and what would it have been like if you hadn’t done it that way.

Send me that flange tool!! Ha!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Bob, nice talking to you today.
You car is going to be awesome.

I do have a couple more questions when you get a chance.

After going through your thread, I wanted to ask a few questions about the flange tool you used and what would it have been like if you hadn’t done it that way.

Send me that flange tool!! Ha!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The panel would have a step in it depending on which side you welded it to. With the step I was able to keep the filler panel flush with the rest of the factory inner fenders. I made the flange tool using a friends small bench top milling machine. I had to make my own flanging tool because of the amount I needed the flange to offset in order to get the panel flush. I just felt like it provides a cleaner look. I also don't think a standard panel flanging tool will be strong enough to flange the R&C filler panel plus it won't offset the flange enough anyways.
 
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