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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So I just picked up my first Mustang a couple of weeks ago. It's a '66 with a 302 and C4. Interior was in pretty good shape, and I couldn't see much more than surface rust under the car and in the wheel wells. The guy I had it from only owned it for 4 months and had previously purchased it from a guy in Michigan. He needed an additional car for the summer as a nanny was going to take his. It looks like it went through a mild restoration within the last 10 years. Drives nicely (minus some hard shifting) and sounds great. My plan is to go for a more modern interior without totally bastardizing it and clean up the exterior.

It's a bit of a Frankenstein body. Painted GM Hugger Orange with a Dodge Demon hood scoop :shrug:. That'll have to be corrected!
 

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Pulled the seats and center console and was able to sell them pretty quickly. Plan on using Corbeau seats and a more modern center console. Pulled the carpet and was met with a bit of a surprise. One of the previous owners had done some patch work on the floor pan but did such a piss poor job.
The welds are barely holding on and look like a 5 year old did them. I'll have to replace the passenger and driver front foot wells for sure. I also plan on replacing the seat pans with the lowered version.

I also think he covered all of his welds in some sort of bondo. This should be fun.
 

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Note where the patches are...the floorpan to firewall extension...its almost certain the cowl is rusted out as well. Having just finished patching all my floorpans I am going to make a suggestion and say you get a one-piece floorpan and do it the easy way...even then, you will likely need new floorpan-to-firewall extensions at the least...and check out that cowl...rotted extensions mean its almost certain it needs repair or replacement
 

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Note where the patches are...the floorpan to firewall extension...its almost certain the cowl is rusted out as well. Having just finished patching all my floorpans I am going to make a suggestion and say you get a one-piece floorpan and do it the easy way...even then, you will likely need new floorpan-to-firewall extensions at the least...and check out that cowl...rotted extensions mean its almost certain it needs repair or replacement
I'll check it out in closer detail. Based on my initial inspection the cowl looks pretty good. I think it was replace the same time the repair work was done.
 

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Made a little bit of progress while waiting for new floor pans to arrive. Ordered from CJPony, but kicking myself for doing the free ground shipping. Has taken almost 3 weeks to arrive. In the meantime I've managed to:

1) Cut out the passenger side seat riser and the majority of the floor pan (waiting for new pan to come in for the final cut)

2) Ordered a metal trunk divider that I'll weld in place. The cardboard one doesn't provide any real protection from being covered in gasoline if you get rear ended hard.

3) Found another mouse nest inside of the frame rail. Exciting! Was able to clean it all out, rust convert/encapsulate, and weld through prime the edges

4) Was able to sell the stock seats, center console, rear seat upholstery, hood, dual snorkel hood scoops, and old carpet (no idea why since it was molded, but he was willing to pay)

5) I've also ordered new Pro-Series Sport-R Villain seats from TMI in blank vinyl/black suede, along with matching rear foam and upholstery.
 

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Note where the patches are...the floorpan to firewall extension...its almost certain the cowl is rusted out as well. Having just finished patching all my floorpans I am going to make a suggestion and say you get a one-piece floorpan and do it the easy way...even then, you will likely need new floorpan-to-firewall extensions at the least...and check out that cowl...rotted extensions mean its almost certain it needs repair or replacement
I ended up taking a closer look at the cowl, theres definitely surface rust, but I can't manage to find any pitting or pinholes. I'll remove the heater core over the next couple of weeks and do a proper inspection and rust encapsulate job. I'll do a hose test too.
 

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Made a little bit of progress while waiting for new floor pans to arrive. Ordered from CJPony, but kicking myself for doing the free ground shipping. Has taken almost 3 weeks to arrive. In the meantime I've managed to:

1) Cut out the passenger side seat riser and the majority of the floor pan (waiting for new pan to come in for the final cut)

2) Ordered a metal trunk divider that I'll weld in place. The cardboard one doesn't provide any real protection from being covered in gasoline if you get rear ended hard.

3) Found another mouse nest inside of the frame rail. Exciting! Was able to clean it all out, rust convert/encapsulate, and weld through prime the edges

4) Was able to sell the stock seats, center console, rear seat upholstery, hood, dual snorkel hood scoops, and old carpet (no idea why since it was molded, but he was willing to pay)

5) I've also ordered new Pro-Series Sport-R Villain seats from TMI in blank vinyl/black suede, along with matching rear foam and upholstery.


Kinda strange...the free ground shipping from CJ usually makes it to me in a couple days...guess it all depends on location. My rats nests were confined to the heater box...frame rails were in fairly good condition for being 53 years old. How are your floor pan extensions looking? I suggest stripping them down with a wire wheel...that does the best job of exposing rust pitting...if you have pitting on sheet metal, the metal might as well be rotted because its so thin at that point its almost impossible to get a good weld....check out my build thread....one rust repair leads to finding more rust where you dont expect it...on and on, but my thread will give you an idea on where to look for trouble spots as you go(I suggest it simply because your car looks very similar as far as rust goes to what I started with)

P.S. If you do end up having to do front floor pan extensions, make sure to take the opportunity to install front torque boxes...they help a LOT for chassis stiffness.
 
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