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Discussion Starter #1
Well, about a month ago I picked up this T code coupe in running(but disassembled) condition for $2500. The body itself is mostly ok...with the exception of a quarter panel patch I dont much care for and rusted floorboards(and presumably a rusted cowl).

I decided to start with the floorboards, a couple pictures from when I was/am adding torque boxes and floor-to-firewall extensions on both sides. In the one inside picture I had not yet re-aligned the torque box after cutting it in two for the install(with luck I will be able to install the passenger side as one piece...learned a few tricks on the driver side). On both floor pans I had to trim away the downward bending lip since the torque boxes have an upward bending lip that goes in the same place. I also had to trim 1/2" from the passenger side outward edge because the bead rolling on the pan was that far off from the car itself(fitment is currently continuing on that pan)

hmm, pictures are all upside down for some reason...but you get the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh, and the almost finished driver side floorpan-to-firewall extension. Still have to grind the welds smooth and have a couple of pinholes to fill(as well as the flange for the torque box to finish properly) but I will get all that when I install the driver side full length floor pan. I would have much preferred to TIG this, but working under the dash restricts me too much...couldn't even fit my hood on without it moving every time it bumped the column or dash, so there was a good amount of blind welding unfortunately.

P.S. Anyone know why the forum keep loading these pics upside down? They are rightside up when I view them on my computer.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Some more pictures, fitment for the passenger side floor-to-firewall extension. I screw it down with self tapping screws and trace it...then pull it off and cut out the existing metal about 1/8" short of my line because by the time you get the old metal out and re-fit the piece, it seems to have magically "shrunk"(in reality it is just sitting flatter against the frame rail and other areas). I then put it back in and mark any metal that still needs to be trimmed. This piece looks like it will fit pretty well now without any huge gaps(the other side I had a few issues).
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Glad to see you're bringing one back to life. What are your plans for it? Lots of cool ways to make them better daily drivers.
Well, to start with...since I am starting with floor pans anyway, I am adding torque boxes(to stiffen the chassis in preperation for handling mods) and I am also planning on cutting down the seat risers when I re-install them because I am 6'3" and need more leg and headroom...will also be modifying the seat tracks to go along with that mod. Other planned mods include a mild 302 v8 swap(looking for 300HP out of an explorer 5.0) with a T5 trans swap. The suspension will be Street or Track UCAs, LCAs, and Strut rods, along with roller perches. The rear will likely be an 8" with 3.5ish gears and trac-loc(or possibly a Miata IRS suspension with a Ford 8.8" IRS Diff if I can find a way to make that fit, (since I have a 3.55 IRS trac-loc diff and miata IRS already sitting around.). In other words...I am building the car to handle the curves more than straight-line acceleration. It wont be the most comfortable daily driver since I dont plan on AC or heat(the few days it gets cold enough here, I will just drive another car) but I do plan on 4 wheel power disc brakes and a 5 lug conversion.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
And a few more, of passenger side torque box fitment...got this one in, in one piece after some judicious trimming of the box:

Tomorrow I will weld it all in and next week will be ready for the full length floor pans that are currently on the way from CJ(how is it that CJ has taken over the entire mustang market from last time I checked anyway?)
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Final fitment of the torque box, plug welded to the frame rail, rocker, etc, as well as passenger side final floor pan fitment and tack welding...and after welds are ground down, etc. I do have a couple areas I need to revisit here...but like the other side, I will wait till I install the full length floor pans until I get to it.

Up next: Pulling and cutting down the seat risers(couldnt justify buying new ones when I will just be cutting them up anyway...I plan to take away 1.5" of height...possibly 1.75" at the back to build in a little more recline(anyone know how much 1/4" will affect recline?

P.S. at least one picture is rightside up anyway
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
And just a couple general pictures of the car itself(in all its disassembled glory). Its hard to believe the thing actually runs and drives...but it does...or would if I didn't remove the throttle pedal to be able to patch the floor. Ignore the temp plywood hood(one of the pieces the car didn't come with unfortunately)

p.s. The upside down pics are driving me crazy...no more of using the site's uploader, guess its back to photobucket hosting for me




 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
So today I pulled the passenger side seat pan and cut it down in prep for the new floor:



On the bottom side of the pan there are these tabs...this one didn't interfere with me bending a new flange after cutting the pan down...




This one did, and had to be cut back and tack welded back into place since I cut away the original spot welds




After some simple fabrication, I test fit the pan back into place...I ended up cutting a total of 1.5" from the stock height...everything seems to look and fit pretty well....just need to finish cleaning it up and repainting it and it will be ready to go back in.

I am contemplating adding some type of extra over-the-hump reinforcement like convertible risers have to add a bit of extra strength, but not sure exactly how best to fabricate that
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I could be wrong...but I doubt you lose any stiffness by cutting down pans..if anything, stiffness should increase with a shorter sidewall on the pans. However...I will look into the lower convertible pans...though I doubt they will fit. I am adding global west subframe connectors...modified with added side panels that will be contoured to the pans themselves(essentially welding the subframe connectors the entire way front to back to the pans). Any lower convertible pans will need to be cut to fit after that...which is fine I suppose..but at that point I may as well fabricate a lower brace from scratch.
 

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Discussion Starter #16


Today I managed to get the driver-side riser out, cut down, and test fit...it too will need to be cleaned up and repainted before installation of course.

Tomorrow I plan on starting to cut out these horrid old floor pans and install the new ones that have come in(I am sure that process will take me several days, but after I finish all the interior metalwork will be done and I can sand, paint, and start rebuilding the interior of the car. It also leaves just the cowl and tailight panel for the final rust areas I have to deal with(I will leave the cowl until I pull the engine so I can access it easier)
 

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Nice work! Can't wait to see the subframe and bracing install. I'll be watching!


Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Nice work! Can't wait to see the subframe and bracing install. I'll be watching!


Greg
Pretty sure my Global West subframe connectors will be in today...but sadly I will have to put off that install until after the floorpans are installed. I would actually like to install them while the floorpans are out...but dont think I can actually do that due to the loss of chassis rigidity with missing pans. Its unfortunate because its likely the only way they could be installed without a lift...and I dont have access to a lift. Any suggestions on installing the things without a lift? Maybe I could drive the car up onto 4 ramps and bathe in some MIG welding slag while laying under the car?(I suppose I could use my TIG instead...but working a foot pedal while laying down is virtually impossible for me). Or maybe...just maybe I could find some place with a lift willing to rent me a bay for a day or two(tedious to move the car while its under construction though)
 

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Discussion Starter #19


Out with the old passenger side floorpan....



And in with the new one...at least for initial fitment. I do still have to cut the front of the pan back to the factory seam line. Tomorrow I will finish installing it and weld it all in...butt welded for the trans tunnel side, plug welded for the rocker and the front edge where it overlaps the floor-to-firewall extension(and frame rails of course)...as close to the way the factory did it as I am able. The old pan gave me surprisingly little trouble coming out.
 

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Pretty sure my Global West subframe connectors will be in today...but sadly I will have to put off that install until after the floorpans are installed. I would actually like to install them while the floorpans are out...but dont think I can actually do that due to the loss of chassis rigidity with missing pans. Its unfortunate because its likely the only way they could be installed without a lift...and I dont have access to a lift. Any suggestions on installing the things without a lift? Maybe I could drive the car up onto 4 ramps and bathe in some MIG welding slag while laying under the car?(I suppose I could use my TIG instead...but working a foot pedal while laying down is virtually impossible for me). Or maybe...just maybe I could find some place with a lift willing to rent me a bay for a day or two(tedious to move the car while its under construction though)
Yeah. Unfortunately an alignment rack (drive on) is the ideal here. The 4 ramps is what I will do for all chassis welding for now.:|
 
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