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Discussion Starter #201


Finally finished and installed the passenger side longtube....I dont think I ever want to build a set of longtube equal length headers again....that took forever. The tubes on the passenger side came out to with 1.25" of each other...2 of them right at 35" and the 3rd at 33.75"....really as close as its possible for me to get. I took a picture from underneath...and yes, I will have to re-do my trans crossmember(though I probably could work around this one since the exhaust tubing will only be 2.25")
 

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Discussion Starter #202 (Edited)
My M5 air horns came in today:





6 of the 8 turn downward, so I chose the 2 oddball ones to expirement with to mod for fitment. These air horns neck down to 48mm at the narrowest point...the throttle plates are 50mm so the air horns are something of a restriction in the system...but honestly 50mm is probably a bit larger than I would have chosen if I were making a custom sized system, so I think I will run with it...at least until I get around to fabricating a custom set of air horns. I can point these things any way I choose really...in the end I have to make a custom air box to go around them in any case...either way I am pretty sure I am going to end up with a hood scoop of some type(not that I have a hood yet anyway)



I wish I could say this orientation would work...but it really wont, it interferes with TB actuation and simply wont fit correctly



Which leaves this one as the most practical orientation...unless I cut the horns in the center and clock the outer portion separately.
 

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Discussion Starter #203




In other news, I lucked out here...someone was going to swap a 3.7l into some import and had a front-sump pan made for the swap...however he lost interest in the swap and sold the engine to a mustang guy who had no use for the pan...so I picked it up for $140...saves me a huge headache of fabricating one from scratch. I might have to cut off the boss for the AC compressor mount though since my alternator is now in that spot.
 

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Discussion Starter #204




The oil pan "mostly" fits, has a couple issues, but neither were unexpected:

The drag link clears by 3/16" on the passenger side...but barely touches on the driver side. This isn't a big deal, since I was considering raising the tail of the trans anyway when I re-do the mount, raising it around 5/16" should give me around 1/8" of clearance there...which doesn't seem like a lot, but I have already verified the drag link has no vertical movement at all. its actually tempting to bore out the mounting holes and flip the drag link to the bottom of the steering arms instead and use a sleeve to maintain the correct taper, then I would have plenty of room, but to make that safe would require some thinking. Another option is modify the draglink for extra clearance(I have done this before, but its not an option I am particularly fond of) I think whatever I do needs to wait until after I re-do the trans crossmember and install whatever spindles I end up with(I have a set from 67-68 and I am sure those will change things with the longer steering arm, or if I use the CPP drop spindles that will certainly change things and make the problem worse)

The other issue is the engine crossmember itself...the back of the sump occupies the same space...the crossmember will need to be moved/angled back by about an inch or so...this is not a hard modification to do though and should be safe enough since it doesn't need much of an angle at all to accomplish what I need.

Minor issues:

My dipstick no longer fits...it hits the shallow part of the sump, so with a full pan if I cut the stick I would end up with just a touch of oil on the end...makes reading oil hard. I cant fill the pan all the way to the top because the main girdle(and presumably the crank protrudes about 1.5" from the bottom of the block)

The starter area....swapping to this pan lost the oil pan-to-trans bolt bolts(which still leaves 6 holes connecting the trans and engine, but leaves most of the bottom of the trans unsupported) The starter itself will become a structural piece on that side though I guess...I don't think I will worry about this too much. I will need to make a custom trans inspection cover though.
 

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Discussion Starter #205
Anyone have a picture of how the v8 drag link mounts up? It may be that this isn't even an issue with a v8 center link
 

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Discussion Starter #207
Here you go





Thank you, I think that clarifies it for me...it doesn't actually look any lower than the I6 link installed...the idler and pitman arms change the geometry, but seem to maintain the overall height.
 

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Discussion Starter #208






Today I started re-fabricating my trans crossmember...not really the prettiest shape, but in this case the form is dictated by the longtube header collectors on the outside and the transmission on the inside...I do still have to add a tail section that the transmission mount bolts to, but its most of the way done...just took forever because I was working under the car by feel half of the time and it went in and out for revisions about 20 times
 

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Discussion Starter #209




Worked some more on the crossmember...at least until I ran out of welding gas. Its almost finished now. Pretty much weighs the same as the stock one, but it has a lot more structure...kinda went overkill for what it is, mainly because the trans mount sits so far back.
 

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Discussion Starter #210
You know...I am starting to think my local AirGas is incompetent. A month or so ago when I went to exchange my CO2/Argon tank, they gave me back an empty one...no big deal, mistakes happen right? I went and exchanged it again today, hooked it up to the welder...and it was acting like there was no gas at all connected...so I look closer at the cylinder...NOS...wtf? The funny thing is the guy checked to make sure he wasn't giving me another empty cylinder...for the record NOS makes a terrible shielding gas...worse than the ambient atmosphere unsurprisingly.

Anyway, since I couldnt weld anything, I tacked(without gas) the final trans crossmember mods on just to test fit:



This will be the final shape of the crossmember...there is no way that even with the weight as far back as it is that this will ever twist in any plane. In case you were wondering, the gap in the front is to clear a drain plug of some type on the bottom of the transmission.

Last task before I pull the drivetrain in preparation for metal work and paint & body prep....the engine crossmember. I will be buying an un-welded kit from Z-Ray and will mod it as needed to clear the oil pan before welding it up.
 

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Doesn't AirGas have trucks that deliver to businesses? Tell them to drive a replacement over to you since they've messed up twice now. Or you'll do the drive to swap it and start buying your replacements elsewhere going forward.

Good work on the crossmember.
 

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You know...I am starting to think my local AirGas is incompetent. A month or so ago when I went to exchange my CO2/Argon tank, they gave me back an empty one...no big deal, mistakes happen right? I went and exchanged it again today, hooked it up to the welder...and it was acting like there was no gas at all connected...so I look closer at the cylinder...NOS...wtf?
At least you can take a deep breath and laugh about it.....
 

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Discussion Starter #214
At least you can take a deep breath and laugh about it.....
Haha...I really was tempted, just to see if it was. I returned the bottle today and got a new one....this one was fine.





Finished it today, grinding down welds anywhere I thought they would be close enough to cause trouble(the thing really doesn't have much clearance anywhere). In the 2nd picture I just have a couple piece of scrap metal under the mount as a shim. I designed it so a shim would be required to get the correct driveline angle...I am currently at 3 degrees with the driveline and 5 degrees with the rear end pinion...but its hard to get the final reading without all the pieces on the car, so I built it specifically to be as adjustable as possible...I may well end up using pinion(spring perch) shims by the time everything is said and done, its pretty close right now once you account for axle twist under acceleration....we shall see.





And because nothing is easy, I moved on to dealing with the oil filter housing....it simply won't fit as it...both the mount bracket and the alternator are in the way...so I will be using a remote oil filter relocation kit....cut the housing down until I was left with just the flange and started to tap it for 1/2" NPT fittings for the lines. I suppose I can take the opportunity to hook a remote oil cooler into the mix as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #215






I went ahead and started the ITB vacuum setup....don't have all the 90 degree push to connect swivel fittings yet to finish it, but I did have one of the ones I took off the catch can to test fit...I was worried that regardless of which fittings I used it wouldnt clear the valve cover...and it is tight, but it does clear...will finish the setup once the rest of the fittings come in.



And this is what I will be using for the idle valve...maybe anyway, I like it, its got a needle valve that opens to a hole in the pipe internally...but in addition to that, the internal pipe can be turned within the body partially blocking the airflow...all in all it makes for a LOT of adjustability...the only bad thing is I think its really larger than I need...which wouldnt be a problem if it didnt mean tapping a 1/2" NPT hole in the vacuum tank(tapping those larger sizes can be difficult sometimes) though I suppose I could just use a reducer?
 

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Discussion Starter #216
My Z-Ray weld-up crossmember kit came in today:



There is actually another bracket of course, but it was already on the car by the time I thought to take this pic





So I wasted little time in getting a general mock-up going. This is why I had to get a weld up kit, as you can see the crossmember will be angled back just a little bit to clear the oil pan...and I will have to offset and gusset the jack pad so it doesn't interfere with anything as well. I can't truly install the brackets and tack everything together until my new crossmember bolts come in from NPD...hoping that happens by Friday so I can get this done by this weekend...this is the last task that requires the engine in place, after this is done I can pull the driveline and put the car on a rotisserie....after I finish the last misc metal work and paint and body prep, this project is all downhill.
 

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Discussion Starter #217



Tacking together the crossmember kit...I have about 1/2" or more clearance from the pan at all points here, works for me. I did have to offset the jacking pad quite a bit , but I am not worried about it...I will just add gussets to support it. It will be a rarity I actually use it to jack the front end up anyway. I hope to pull it back off and finish welding it all up by this weekend.



On a different front, some of my fittings came in, so I finished plumbing up the vacuum tank for the ITBs. Looks kinda chaotic right now, but once I get some plug wire separators on there and possibly bend the tubing a bit by heating it and using the tubing bender on it, it will neaten up.
 

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Discussion Starter #218


verifying the alignment before actual welding(these have got to be the worst tack welds in the history of the world...I blame having to reach all the way across the car underneath and tacking upside down so I couldn't see a thing...also found a problem with the feed switch in the torch so it was only working intermittently until I fixed it)





All welded up...good strong welds...too bad they aren't pretty too. And so it joins the pile of parts that needs to be cleaned up and painted and/or powdercoated before final install.



Well, I guess its time to start stripping everything off the car...driveline goes on an engine stand for initial startup...car goes on the rotisserie for final misc metal work(reminds me I do have to fix one of the rotisserie attachment nuts on the driver side frame rail) then I guess its on to sandblasting and epoxy priming.
 
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