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Discussion Starter #261


So the last week or so I have been doing bodywork to the undercarriage. No huge goals here, just trying to make it look like it wasn't patched together from a half dozen different panels(which it of course was)...but body work eventually gets boring, so I moved on to doing the arning drop today:



I used a plate from SoT....but really, anyone could easily take some measurements, this just saved me about an hour of measuring and double checking, well worth the price.



Drilled a pilot hole, then followed through with a step bit that maxed out at 1/2"



To plug the old holes I just cut down an old 1/2 bolt I had into 3/8" sections and welded it in(not sure if people usually plug the old holes, but I did just because I have no intention of ever returning the car to anywhere close to stock)



After grinding the welds down. It was actually one of the easiest modifications(even with the welding and grinding) I have yet done to the car.
 

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Very cool build. I trolled your miata 3.7 build before. I have been intrested in this same swap into my 70 coupe but with a turbo on it. Will def follow this build and prob ask you alot of questions on the engine mangment side of things
 

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Discussion Starter #263
Very cool build. I trolled your miata 3.7 build before. I have been intrested in this same swap into my 70 coupe but with a turbo on it. Will def follow this build and prob ask you alot of questions on the engine mangment side of things
Its not a swap for the faint of heart...at least not if you want to retain shock towers...the 70 would be virtually identical with the exception that you would have slightly more room between the shock towers(which makes stock exhaust manifolds fitting a distant possibility). As for turbocharging, I am building with the possibility of leaving that as an option should I need more power....but for this chassis I think remote turbos are the way to go as long as you don't need more than about 500HP....a couple Aerochargers sitting in place of the stock mufflers would do nicely....VNT turbos with self contained oil supplies seem tailor made for the application. The possibility of turbocharging is one of the reasons I designed the velocity stacks with v-bands at the bellmouth....can easily swap in a sealed manifold instead if need be. To be honest, its unlikely I will turbocharge anytime soon, but eventually I am sure I will want the challenge.
 

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Discussion Starter #266
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This weekend I finally started sandblasting the car. I used the the black diamond fine grit "sand" at Tractor Supply Co. I am honestly not sure whether its sand or not...it says coal slag on the bags and having worked in my fair share of coal plants over the years, it sure does look like it could be. Regardless of what it is, it does seem to do the job well enough. I started with a siphon-style blaster, but after realizing it was taking forever with that one, I opted to buy a pressurized canister instead....which seems to work a lot better....but even so it looks like the process will take about 12 hours of work to strip the whole thing. I have heard that sandblasting adds a lot of heat and you risk warping panels if you arent careful, but whatever the media really is, it does not seem to warm the metal to any real degree above ambient air temp. I guess the real question is how much surface rust will return by the time I am done blasting...from this bit I did yesterday with the siphon-feed blaster, when I went back today there was no flash rust at all, so I think I may have enough time to get it all blasted down and a coat of epoxy primer sprayed on before it becomes an issue.

P.S. Some wasps seem to have taken up residence inside the rotisserie...one stung me twice the other day before I got it with a can of weld trough primer.....a sandblaster makes a much better weapon though.
 

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Discussion Starter #267
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Another hour and a half of sandblasting(or coal blasting as the case may be) got me this far....was just starting to get into the groove when my blaster line somehow sprung a leak and I decided to shut down for the day...luckily it happened near one end so I can just cut it down a couple inches and get back to it, but I probably should find some alternative(longer) line at some point. Not sure what to use though...maybe some heavy duty garden hose?
 

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Looking good. I'm itching to get mine blasted and sealed in epxoy primer but that will be 3-4 months away for me now.
 

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Discussion Starter #269
Been a bit, due to delays with sandblasting, but I got around to installing what is essentially a firewall pedal reinforcement patch:

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I only bothered to take a picture while I was still adjusting fit. Its just a firewall cut from an old coupe OldMil was parting out. I cleaned it up afterward, painted the firewall side and spot welded it in place. The idea here is to reinforce the firewall because now that I have 6 ITBs there is roughly 3-4 times as much throttle spring pressure being applied to the area around the throttle pedal. As you can see, I left as much shape as possible in an effort to distribute the forces to other vectors rather than just a doubling up of the firewall itself. This modification should not be needed unless you are going with ITBs or a set of Weber carbs.
 

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I did the same thing, but bonded mine in using 3m panel adhesive.

I'm using the Lokar pedal with a throttle cable and without that reinforcement, you could feel the firewall flexing. I'd say the reinforcement reduced the flex by at least 80%.
 

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Discussion Starter #271
I did the same thing, but bonded mine in using 3m panel adhesive.

I'm using the Lokar pedal with a throttle cable and without that reinforcement, you could feel the firewall flexing. I'd say the reinforcement reduced the flex by at least 80%.
Pretty sure I blatantly stole the idea from you, I chose welding over panel bonding though because I still have a couple days to finish up any misc welding needed before epoxy primer goes on.
 
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