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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)




The passenger side pan going in...I made sure to include a shot from inside the rocker since for some reason I had a hell of a time finding a shot myself looking for a how-to



cut down seat riser cleaned up and going back in...I sprayed the area below with galvanizing compound(an easy stand-in for weld-through primer if you cant find weld through primer locally...actually has a higher zinc content anyway.



and a quick spray of whatever I had for paint just to keep the welds from rusting until I get back to actually sanding and painting(which I will probably do at the same time as the rest of the interior. I did have some trouble with the plug welds at first and had to go back and add more(which is why there are a crap-ton) but it was my own idiocy...had my welder settings completely wrong for plug welding and the penetration wasnt what I needed...all fixed now floor is in and feels solid again...tomorrow I will start on the driver side...which is actually in much worse shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #22 (Edited)


Driver side rot cut out



New metal tacked in. All in all, it fits almost as well as the stock...except for the seatbelt anchor point being about 1/2" further back(not that that will make any practical difference). That being said....the stock pan didnt fit very well in the trans crossmember area...and neither did this one...had to "convince" it closer to that frame rail. In the end it now fits better than the stock piece that came out...at the cost of some dings. Good thing its under the carpet and this is just a driver.

Just have to weld it all up, grind the welds down, add the seat riser and I can call the floors done and move on to sanding and painting the interior...
 

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Discussion Starter #23




Yesterday's work. I finished all the plug/spot and butt welding for the pan and test fit the cut down driver side riser...not sure I am entirely happy with how it fits..I may move it back another 3/8" or so. I wish I could say I would finish it up today, but I doubt I will have enough time to grind down all the welds...let alone finish the riser...but I will try
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)


I didn't get much done today before the rain shut me down...but I did get the welds ground down at least...couldn't paint the bare metal though because of the rise in humidity...oh well, just need to fill a few misc pinholes on this side(mainly on the firewall panel), do a little bit of flange work and other misc welding, then I can temp paint it and call the floors done.

I also managed to get a vacuum up into one cowl, snake it across to the other cowl hood and break up the 50 years of mulch hiding up there...and while I still couldn't see the metal on top, I was able to feel it after getting all the mulch out...while the metal on the bottom looks good, the metal up top feels badly pitted. I was all set to kick that particular project down the road a bit, but if it feels that bad, chances are its worse, if its not leaking now, it will be soon...so I guess I am ordering at the least a new lower cowl, and more than likely the whole thing to replace.

In the meantime, while waiting for that nightmare to arrive...I guess up next I will be working on the taillight panel and the rear seat divider....if I run out of work to do while still waiting, I guess I will sand and prep/prime the interior metal back to the rear seat divider...or maybe I will just remove the cowl while I wait.

P.S. looking at the pic now I see I forgot to install the driver's seat belt anchor...so I guess that adds about 15 minutes of work or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)


Finished up the floor pans today, aside from just a few spots that may need attention later...which I can now kick down the road to when I am doing the cowl.

But, to my dismay, a "full length floor pan" is NOT full length:



This area would be covered by a one piece pan, but isn't by the pans I have...so since I dont think I have ever seen a patch for this area, I am reduced to cutting out a portion and hand fabbing the patches I need(also have to do the same for the radiused ledge of the trunk floor piece it sits on I guess.



The passenger side isn't nearly as bad...a lot less work I will have to do here...though likely I will do something very similar to what I plan for the driver side just to get ahead of whatever caused the rot over there. Its all good though...I was just thinking I didn't have a big enough weekend project...now I do. I will see if I have enough scrap metal from the portions I cut off the floor pans to make this work...I should(if I dont, I do still have an unused extension I guess I can cut up)

P.S. What in the world was the factory thinking, curling up the back edge of the floor like that? That is a sure moisture trap.
 

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Discussion Starter #27 (Edited)
Well, today I decided to tackle the rust under the rear seat on the driver side...



Removing the old panel, drilling spot welds and marking where my cut will be.



cut cut cut away...careful though, the fuel line runs really close to the tunnel rear corner area



And its out...I rage cut my parking brake line for always being in my way...doesn't matter, its not going back in anyway(going with some custom handbrake setup)



Unfortunately they do not make patch panels for this area...no clue why



So I get to do my best to try to salvage them



I am really not happy with trying to salvage the things, but I have no real choice...anywhere there is even light pitting I am getting pinholes, spent way too much time filling pinholes and trying not to grind my welds too far down



This is not a recommended method...and I sure wouldn't have done it except I had to...in hindsight I would probably have been better off fabbing these from scratch, but I wanted to keep all the bead rolling from the factory. The triangular patch I welded from the back, trying to keep the grinding in the radius to a minimum...good idea, but didnt work worth anything in reality...ended up having to go back over the top anyway



Welded the lower shock mount radius ledge back in place



This one has some pretty ugly partially ground welds. I didnt want to grind them all the way because of how thin these pieces already were...I spent a long time filling pinholes...so I decided to deal with the ugly welds since they are under the back seat, and most of them are above the frame rail(though the bottom side I was actually able to grind a little closer). Its not pretty, but its a solid piece of sheet metal again(or as solid as they come that thin). I didnt weld this one in place yet...but it looks like it will fit back in with minimal trouble. Ugly, but it will do the trick...just unhappy I sent 8 hours on something that came out barely adequate.
 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)


My dissatisfaction was for nothing, once welded back in, it looks fine(for a floorboard that will never be seen)...just have to grind this down and I can move on to the passenger side...though I have a lot less work over there and can do it differently.

Once the passenger side is done, that's all the rot in the interior...leaves just the cowl, the tailight panel, and possibly the radiator support(have to take a closer look there...if I have to replace it, I will use a 67 radiator support and battery tray fender apron so as to be able to run a slightly bigger radiator
 

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Discussion Starter #29


How the patch turned out in the end...not that it matters since I found they do sell the correct panel after all(I wasn't looking hard enough I guess) So I will be cutting this out and patching it again using a panel that isn't 50 years old, although I am sure I will need to find out how best to align the seat bracket on the new panel.
 

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Discussion Starter #30 (Edited)
Didn't do too much today...just pulled the engine, trans and front/back windshields to prep for the cowl removal which I will start tomorrow:



You can see the weld line from the installation of the extension panels I still need to clean up on this side before I install the engine(still not sure I am bothering to put the I6 back in, even temporarily since I will just have to pull it again to swap to a 302 later)



I did find this concerning bit of rust though..obviously I am going to have to rebuild at least part of the top firewall lip...hopefully there will be enough left to work off of without causing issues.


P.S. In other news, it seems I am going to have to replace the front frame crossmember the radiator support sits on(its starting to rot away, and considering that the strut rod brackets attach there, its a critical piece) as well as the radiator support and the front fender aprons on both sides(they were also badly patched by the previous owner)
 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
Well, I started the task I have been dreading the most:



I removed the upper cowl...140 spot welds exactly...honestly its not as bad as everyone makes it out to be...it took about 5 hours to get it free. I may have damaged the flange too much getting it out to re-use...but I dont have much choice since I just ordered the lower portion instead of both lower and upper and no one sells the upper alone...oh well, I will make it work, I have scrap metal, a welder and a grinder to fix the corners...and the rest can be plug weld holes







The condition of the lower cowl...I have seen worse, but one thing I have learned...there is no such thing as light surface pitting. If the surface has pits, it might as well be gaping holes. There are no pinholes in the cowl floor...yet...but its only a matter of time, its obviously the hats that are the leaky culprit here though. Another thing I have learned...when I was washing all the crud out from around the hats with a hose...the water itself did not drain...this means the slight incline of the front end with the engine out is enough to make water stand in your cowl...if you drive your mustang in the rain...make sure to always park facing downhilll to ensure the water drains out of the cowl.

Tomorrow I will pull the lower cowl...broke my last cheapo harbor freight spot weld cutter getting the top out...went through 2 of them(which I guess is really 4 since they are reversible). If you arent really careful they have a habit of losing teeth...they dont last long after that...also managed to break my spring loaded punch...so I took it apart and finished the job with just the punch needle itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #32


Lower cowl out...looks like the firewall lip repair wont be too bad.





Some pics of the lip repair...ran out of .023 wire in the last 2 inches of the weld(just my luck) so it brought my welding to a stop for the day.



Some pics of test fitting the lower '67 cowl. Looks like I trimmed away a bit too much at the front edge...ah well, it will be ok...might seam weld it there and then seal seal it before the upper goes on just to be sure.



Threw the stock upper back on just to see what I am looking at as far as fitment goes. It will be a chore all right, the angle of the lip of the lower cowl looks like it might be slightly wrong back near the windshield lip...either that or I just need to fully fit the lower first before getting there...regardless I have other things to do before even installing the lower(such as painting the inside of the firewall and dash and installing the firewall insulation) much less, the upper cowl.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Looks like I will be spending the next couple days sanding and painting under the dash...but in the meantime, the one vanity piece I ordered came in from CJPP...I couldnt resist...it was $60 off the normal price with the 4th of July sale:



It is their 14 inch "GT350" version...what do you think? It was only 95% vanity...I wanted a slightly smaller wheel for more room as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #34




Another day of not getting a whole lot done. Mainly working on painting the interior of the firewall and behind the dash and working on the engine bay side of the floorpan to firewall extension seams so I can install the firewall insulation before putting the cowl back on.
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Dang man, that looks difficult. lol

Keep up the good work!
Actually, nothing I have done to this point has been particularly difficult....some of it has been tedious(lost track of how much time I have spent grinding welds down)...but nothing difficult. I couldn't believe how easy it was to pull the engine out...maybe its because I did this to my Miata:







and every little thing I do on that project is so tight it turns into a mini project of its own:





I am just enjoying all the room available in the vintage mustang while I take a breather from that thing for awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter #37






The lower cowl prepped for re-assembly, and yes, I drilled a hole literally every single inch for the plug welds. There is no way this thing is going to leak if there is anything I can do about it.
 

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Looks like I will be spending the next couple days sanding and painting under the dash...but in the meantime, the one vanity piece I ordered came in from CJPP...I couldnt resist...it was $60 off the normal price with the 4th of July sale:







It is their 14 inch "GT350" version...what do you think? It was only 95% vanity...I wanted a slightly smaller wheel for more room as well.


Love the wheel! I have the 15”

Sometimes I wish I got the 14” for more legroom. That steering wheel just feels right.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Yeah, that is why I got the 14" wheel...even though I have manual steering and I have already dropped the seat risers 1.5". I dont plan on a tilt column and am a tall guy, so legroom is important(dont need another situation like the miata). The steering wheel itself is surprisingly light...too bad it will be awhile before it goes in.
 

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Love the wheel! I have the 15”

Sometimes I wish I got the 14” for more legroom. That steering wheel just feels right.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Yeah, that is why I got the 14" wheel...even though I have manual steering and I have already dropped the seat risers 1.5". I dont plan on a tilt column and am a tall guy, so legroom is important(dont need another situation like the miata). The steering wheel itself is surprisingly light...too bad it will be awhile before it goes in.
I picked up the same wheel, but in 15". Hopefully I don't regret that decision but I can't wait to install it in the next day or two!
 
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