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Discussion Starter · #501 ·
After 3(or is it 4?) months these finally came in. Won't be able to get the tires installed until Friday though...but I will at least be able to finally get the rear end centered soon. Staggered...17x8 in back 17x7 in front.
Automotive tire Hubcap Tread Alloy wheel Motor vehicle
 

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1966 GT 4spd
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Love em!!!!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #506 ·
Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Hood

Tire Wheel Car Vehicle Hood

Wheel Tire Car Vehicle Automotive parking light

Car Land vehicle Tire Vehicle Wheel

Tire Wheel Automotive lighting Car Vehicle

Automotive parking light Tire Car Land vehicle Wheel

Car Wheel Vehicle Tire Hood


Installed, running Hankook Ventus V2 Concept 2 tires(they seemed to have good reviews and a reasonable price, I guess we will see) 245/45/17 in the back and 225/45/17 in the front. I have no brakes on the car yet, I presume the rear wheels would be pushed out another 1/4" each side in the back and another 1/8" each side in the front.
 

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1966 GT 4spd
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Looks great!!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #508 ·
Looks great!!

Chris
Thanks, would probably look better on a finished car...but I had to have the final wheels and tires on the car to proceed with what I am doing next.

P.S. The lug nuts CJs sells as a kit with these wheels are garbage and do not fit, the conical section does not go the base of the lug nut and so if you tighten them down the wheel is all loose. I had to put my old rusty lugs on there for the time being.
 

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Discussion Starter · #509 ·
Wheel Tire Outdoor bench Vehicle Road surface


Automotive tire Gas Bumper Automotive wheel system Automotive exterior


A sneak peak at the next project on the list....converting to front steer while maintaining the stock-type front suspension. The plan is as follows:

1. Install a MII crossmember
2. Install a MII steering rack(this one was advertised as 3.5 turns lock to to lock, but when I measured it ends up at just over 3 turns...essentially the same as what I have with the 16:1 box and shelby quick-steer arms. I may or may not play with a de-powered power rack later on to get that down to 2.5 if I think its worth the effort)
3. Install MII 2" drop spindles(these haven"t come in just yet)
4. Do not remove shock towers and keep all stock-type(in this case SoT coilover system) front suspension.

The crossmember is essentially just there to replace the stock-typ(in this case Z-Ray) crossmember and to provide geometry correct mounting points for the steering rack. I chose a bend and weld together kit since the crossmember will require some customization to make sure it fits around the stock LCA mount without issue...as well as likely having to be notched for the oil pan. Its unknown whether a stock-type sway bar will work for this...but I suspect it will since the tie rods are likely going to end up below the strut rods....but there is only so far speculation and measurements will take you with something like this, so its uncharted territory from here on. Tomorrow I will try to get the engine and steering pulled so I can start fitting the crossmember on Sunday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #510 ·
Well, I failed to get the engine and trans pulled today. Its held in just by the motor and transmission mount bolts right now....I got to the final step, hooked up my engine hoist...and started jacking. No pressure :mad: The oil level looked good, so I can only assume a seal started leaking in the ram sometime during the last 6 months, it wouldn't lift an inch. What a PITA, I don't even know if all the jack rams you can buy for these things are the same size or whether I need the specific model. I may end up having to buy a new engine hoist...but good lord, those things aren't cheap these days. Maybe I will rent one from Autozone or something, I don't know...what I do know is it has messed my schedule all up and I may fail to get this thing pulled tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #511 ·
Road surface Asphalt Outdoor bench Gas Automotive exterior


Wheel Tire Automotive tire Automotive lighting Motor vehicle


So yesterday the weather was about 75 degrees, was sweating as I was messing with the coilovers(got a little side project going there I'll get into a bit later) but today it was a beautiful 40 degrees. I love working in 40 degree weather...I can work all day and not sweat at all....anyway, today I took the opportunity to pull the modified crossmember once more...this time I notched it to make sure there is no interference anywhere with the control arm, even if I used to the strut rods to pull or push it around. Did the little scallop notch underneath it since I brought that plate up a bit too high and I suspected it of limiting movement at full droop(not that the suspension should see that any time its on the ground, but just putting the finishing touches on this as I wait for the machine shop to finish with the rack gear.
 

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Discussion Starter · #512 ·
Road surface Wood Grass Asphalt Gas


Wood Road surface Automotive exterior Gas Composite material


Well, today since I didn't have a whole lot else to do, I decided to start restoring my passenger side seat basket for the Capri seats. Made a new lower basket from 5/16" steel rod...but instead of making new hangers, I decided to restore the original ones. Unlike the driver's seat these hangers only had surface rust, and I am sure the OEM hangers are better than the replacements I made from welding rod for the other seat. I found I ran out of black paint though after getting the frame back together...so I sprayed it with this rustoleum hammered pewter color. I won't be able to string the wire supports though until I get some black paint....I know no one will ever see the basket unless the seat is out of the car and upside down...but I will know it and it will aggravate me every time I take out the seats...besides, its obvious I need more rattlecan for other things, might as well put this project on hold since stringing the wire can be done anytime, inside job. Also going to need to strip and paint the seat back frame before I can start with modifying and repairing foam and doing upholstery.
 
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