68 Mustang Coupe
Having just rebuilt my PS cylinder for my '68 and destroyed a rebuild kit, here's how to avoid my mistake. When replacing the rod seals, check the end of the rod at the base of the threads, where the chromed smooth section begins. This can be quite sharp, and can cut your new seal. After ruining a seal, I rounded this edge slightly with 500 sandpaper and the new seals went on without damage. Also, if you don't know how to remove the seals in the first place: once you have removed the snap ring, copper star washer, spacer, and wiper you are down to the first rubber lip seal. This seal requires some force to remove. A hydraulics guy told me to take a small screw (I used a square drive trim screw as used in carpentry) and drive it into the seal. A cordless drill or impact driver works well. The screw drills itself into the seal. Be careful to use a screw small enough to avoid scratching the rod or the seat in the cylinder. The screw can be grabbed with pliers to pull the seal. Next remove the spacer, and use the same procedure to pull the second seal. I used a piece of 1/2" emt metal conduit about 6" long to tap the new seals into place. I hope this helps someone. Sometimes I wonder why all my stories seem to be cautionary tales.