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Discussion Starter #1
I need to pull out my 302 V8 Engine out of my Mustang for the frame to be repaired. The damage is in the front of the frame and I am confused on if to pull out the engine and the transmission or just the engine. I would think just the engine because I am not changing the transmission out and because the frame damage doesn't go all the way back to the transmission. What do you guys think I should do when pulling out the engine? When I do pull it out, I plan to give the engine a clean and replace the spark plugs. I would also like to know what I should do before pulling out the engine.
 

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i'd yank them out together, but that's me. if you leave the trans in, put a board across the fenders and tie the bellhousing to it with rope, wire, whatever. and towels under the board, of course :)
 

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I'd pull em both-
my reasoning- its sometimes hard to line them up individually in the car
- its nice to have them out to clean up and respray engine bay-
- the car is easy to move around without engine or tranny
-you get super easy access to work on e brake cable, tranny shift linkage


You could leave tranny in- your call-

If you do decide to pull both- I like to jack up rear of vehicle- and then let air out of the tires in the front- this gives you a little nicer angle to slide things out, Oh- you might wanna drain the tranny or get one of the plastic yoke thingies- or you will drain auto trans fluid all over the place.
 

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I agree with "ford guy" as to how to secure the tranny. I've used the method too. Just be diligent in steps tp protect the tops of the fenders. Am assuming you're making the repairs in your garage. Therefore, if a C4, insure the torque convertor is fully against the tranny side, if it slides forward, Just know going back in, it can be a bit fiddly getting the it fully seated on the splines.
 

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It's a personal preference thing. I've never seen a reason to remove the transmission if I only want the engine out. I tend to work alone and definitely find it easier to pull and reinstall just the engine by myself. Plus I don't have to jack the car up as high.

On the other hand, newbies often have great difficulty mating engines and transmissions back together properly when they are in the car. So if you don't separate them in the first place you can make an end run around that problem.

By the way, on a vintage Mustang forum pretty much everybody knows exactly what a "302" is. No need to add "V8" nor "engine". Not here anyways.
 

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I only have a 1 ton engine lift, thats 1/4 ton fully extended. I only pull the motor and leave the trans in place. Use a floor jack with at least a 2x4 or better 2x6 under the trans pan for support while removing/installing the engine. I used a rope through the trans bolt holes and tied the bell housing up to the 4 brace holes on the firewall, braces removed. You might need to remove your radiator and hood for the engine to clear as it will need to move forward to disconnect from the trans. This si the issue when installing the engine, lining everything back up so it slides back together properly, and why some will remove both engine and transmission together.

Removing engine and transmission together requires a larger engine lift as you need to extend it all the way to have a high lift as the engine needs to be high and the transmission low to get it forward over the radiator support and out from under the firewall at the same time.


Sorry for the wrong brand/make, needed something fast.
 

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Personal preference. Personally if I yank just the motor out. To me it’s more manageable. My engine lift is non folding, I’ve pulled the engine and trans together with it. I have read from a few guys with the typical folding lift it barely has enough length to lift the motor out. With the transmission attached you may not have the reach and stability needed. I think it’s more going to be what your lift dictates
 

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I would pull both. You can do it with a folding lift. I installed my 390/C6 in one shot with my folding lift with no problems at all. Besides don’t you need to haul it to frame shop? Do you want that trans flopping around during that move(s)? You will need to pull driveshaft too.

I removed the hood, jacked the rear as high as I could, and dropped it in with the exhaust manifolds installed. I did not think it would go, but it slid in pretty easily. I did scratch that new engine bay paint, but that was the least of my worries. It was a heavy load, but no issue with 1 ton folding lift lengthened to the max. I did use a load leveler too. Pretty much the same set up as pictured above by 69GT350H, except it’s a 390/C6/428 with exhaust manifolds.
 

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I am with the guys who would just pull the motor. Leave the trans in the car & put a couple bolts through the top 2 trans bell housing holes & run a length of chain over the shock tower to firewall braces & attach the chain to the bolts & that will support the trans.
 

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I am with the guys who would just pull the motor. Leave the trans in the car & put a couple bolts through the top 2 trans bell housing holes & run a length of chain over the shock tower to firewall braces & attach the chain to the bolts & that will support the trans.
My car was stored and moved many times with the transmission hanging by the nylon rope and it never swung around.



Next time, I might use something stronger than that nylon rope though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
To be honest, I have seen all of your guy's solutions. I plan to use the method of keeping the tranmission in the car and having it hang. This way, it will be easier to get the engine back in. I also plan to clean it and replace the spark plugs in the engine while it is out. Thank you all for you answers! I am just trying to get it ready to have the frame repaired.
 

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Well if it was me I'd be pulling the trans with the engine. Perfect time to clean up and detail both engine and trans while you are waiting for the car to get back from the shop. Then once back, another perfect time to clean up/repaint/detail the engine bay, clean/detail the under carriage etc. . . . .

Then again that's how the "while I'm at it" syndrome starts and before you know it everything's been spruced up and your wallet is much lighter >:) - ask me how I know :grin2:

YMMV

John
 

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So what’s the deal with the frame? You mentioned that the alignment shop diagnosed it, but I never saw a more detailed analysis. Where’s it bent up? How bad?
 
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