Pulsing lights at idle - how old is this regulator??

2104 Views 56 Replies 10 Participants Last post by matnetik, 6 mo ago

matnetik

Discussion Starter · 7 mo ago

Here’s what I know - lights pulse at idle - will get some video this weekend.

I believe it’s just the headlights, not sure if it’s inside as well
3 wire alternator, new cables (unsure how old it is but keeps everything charged and battery reads 13.5v atm)
New solenoid and new battery
New instrument panel regulator
New ground strap from alternator to block, from block to firewall and to radiator
All new bulbs and light housing / cleaned connectors
Just ordered a new headlight switch because mine has been a bit finicky.

I am thinking it’s this 40+ year old voltage regulator or is this a replacement? Easiest way to test? Or just replace? Any recommendations for a solid state unit? Doesn’t need to look factory or anything but would love plug and play. As always, thanks!

Automotive tire Motor vehicle Bumper Rim Tire

See less See more

1 - 20 of 57 Posts

awhtx

· #2 · 7 mo ago

This is a solid state, plug and play replacement for your mechanical voltage regulator. The cover on the mechanical unit is attached with screws so a knowledgeable mechanic can adjust it. The cover on the solid state unit is attached with rivets. Drill them out and install your old cover so everybody will think you have an original mechanical VR.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-vr166?seid=srese2

Reactions: 2

Hemikiller

· #3 · 7 mo ago

They work much better when they have a solid ground connection. You're missing at least one of the attaching screws, I think I see the bottom one. Clean the surfaces, use a star washer on both sides of the regulator housing for best connection and make sure it's tight. A nut and bolt solution works well as the holes in the radiator support are often stripped out.

Hard to say if that's a solid state or mechanical, as the cover has screws. I'd try cleaning the connections and grounding it as above. If you still get a flicker, then a solid state Motorcraft GR540B or Standard VR166 regulator are your best solution. The el-cheapo parts store units are hit or miss.

Huskinhano

· #4 · 7 mo ago

Hemikiller said:
They work much better when they have a solid ground connection. You're missing at least one of the attaching screws, I think I see the bottom one. Clean the surfaces, use a star washer on both sides of the regulator housing for best connection and make sure it's tight. A nut and bolt solution works well as the holes in the radiator support are often stripped out.

Hard to say if that's a solid state or mechanical, as the cover has screws. I'd try cleaning the connections and grounding it as above. If you still get a flicker, then a solid state Motorcraft GR540B or Standard VR166 regulator are your best solution. The el-cheapo parts store units are hit or miss.

This ^^^^ if you don’t have a good ground, the regulator doesn’t have a good reference point.

Woodchuck

· #5 · 7 mo ago

The obvious thing that jumps out at me from the photo is the missing condenser for the voltage regulator (the yellow plug with nothing attached). The voltage regulator constantly signals the alternator to charge, then cut-out as the voltage reaches its peak, then charge again. Each time the regulator "switches" the alternator off a voltage surge occurs as the circuit opens. The condenser is placed at that location to absorb the surge. It will also quiet radio frequency (RF) noise in the audio system caused by the "switching". The newer "solid-state" regulators are a bit more efficient than the older mechanical contact-point models but they still generate a surge upon switching.

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #6 · 7 mo ago

Great replies and thanks as always! Will start by getting this thing a better ground, and I’ll pull the cover off to see what’s underneath. @Woodchuck (I owe you multiple beers at this point haha) can you point me in the direction of what condenser I need? @awhtx & @Hemikiller appreciate the link, not trying to cheap out so will buy the good one!

Woodchuck

· #7 · 7 mo ago

matnetik said:
Great replies and thanks as always! Will start by getting this thing a better ground, and I’ll pull the cover off to see what’s underneath. @Woodchuck (I owe you multiple beers at this point haha) can you point me in the direction of what condenser I need? @awhtx & @Hemikiller appreciate the link, not trying to cheap out so will buy the good one!

SUPPRESSOR, RADIO NOISE - #18832-1C - National Parts Depot

Buy part #18832-1C SUPPRESSOR, RADIO NOISE for your classic vehicle from National Parts Depot. Free shipping on orders over $300, fast delivery & everyday low pricing! Order now!

www.npdlink.com

Reactions: 1

CJM68GT390

· #8 · 7 mo ago

@matnetik
Hi. It appears that you have unwittingly wondered into the weird world of electrical idiosyncrasy resulting from bad or faulty grounds. That is a common topic on this forum and discussed regularly.

This is what I did, although I'll admit that I might have gone a bit over-board. I ran a 12awg black wire from the battery terminal and daisy-chained it to most everything of electrical importance under the hood. This included the starter solenoid, alternator, voltage regulator, Duraspark box, plus into the cabin where I used a bolt as a post to connect several extra grounds to instrument panel and radio. I used internal serrated washers or terminals to insure a good electrical connection.
As I understand, if you have any aluminum add-ons (radiator, intake, water pump) I'd run a wire to it as well. Very small electrical resistance can cause current which, over time, can cause corrosion with those items.

Also, I've always been steadfast suggesting that everyone get the Ford Electrical Assembly manual for their year car. It has all of the wires (including colors), connectors and other electrical components of the car, and includes the routing of all the harnesses. Very useful.

Good luck. Keep us informed of your progress.

See less See more

Reactions: 1

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #9 · 7 mo ago

CJM68GT390 said:
@matnetik
Hi. It appears that you have unwittingly wondered into the weird world of electrical idiosyncrasy resulting from bad or faulty grounds. That is a common topic on this forum and discussed regularly.

This is what I did, although I'll admit that I might have gone a bit over-board. I ran a 12awg black wire from the battery terminal and daisy-chained it to most everything of electrical importance under the hood. This included the starter solenoid, alternator, voltage regulator, Duraspark box, plus into the cabin where I used a bolt as a post to connect several extra grounds to instrument panel and radio. I used internal serrated washers or terminals to insure a good electrical connection.
As I understand, if you have any aluminum add-ons (radiator, intake, water pump) I'd run a wire to it as well. Very small electrical resistance can cause current which, over time, can cause corrosion with those items.

Also, I've always been steadfast suggesting that everyone get the Ford Electrical Assembly manual for their year car. It has all of the wires (including colors), connectors and other electrical components of the car, and includes the routing of all the harnesses. Very useful.

Good luck. Keep us informed of your progress.

Yeah I recently went through a replaced all the ground cables and made sure straps were secure. Cleaned up and replaced the alternator cables and ran new inline fuses / tubing to tighten everything up On the passenger side, need to do the other side of the engine bay now. All my other electrical is pretty solid, obviously random things come up from time to time and I stumble upon shortcuts the previous owners took. Thanks for the great info and explanation, going to order a solid state regulator and that suppressor above. I am sure it also has to do with a mix of LED and halogen bulbs, might need to add some resistors here and there.

As far as the manuals, it’s the first thing I did when I bought the car! Got them all

Font Rectangle Parallel Pattern Paper

See less See more

CJM68GT390

· #10 · 7 mo ago

matnetik said:
Yeah I recently went through a replaced all the ground cables and made sure straps were secure. Cleaned up and replaced the alternator cables and ran new inline fuses / tubing to tighten everything up On the passenger side, need to do the other side of the engine bay now. All my other electrical is pretty solid, obviously random things come up from time to time and I stumble upon shortcuts the previous owners took. Thanks for the great info and explanation, going to order a solid state regulator and that suppressor above. I am sure it also has to do with a mix of LED and halogen bulbs, might need to add some resistors here and there.

As far as the manuals, it’s the first thing I did when I bought the car! Got them all
View attachment 866248

You are attacking the problem smarty and methodically. Nice.
Great choices for the library. I’d still get the electrical assembly manual as it has lots of detail that I don’t think you’ll find in those three. You’d be surprised. I’ve found it indispensable.

Reactions: 1

ginpunk

· #11 · 7 mo ago

Thanks @matnetik for starting this thread. And of course, thanks to the sage known as @Woodchuck .

I need to pick up one of those little condensers myself.

Reactions: 1

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #12 · 7 mo ago

CJM68GT390 said:
You are attacking the problem smarty and methodically. Nice.
Great choices for the library. I’d still get the electrical assembly manual as it has lots of detail that I don’t think you’ll find in those three. You’d be surprised. I’ve found it indispensable.

Ah! For some reason I thought the electrical / vacuum diagram one I have was what you were talking about - will have to snag the electrical assembly for the collection - these manuals are a MUST HAVE

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #13 · 7 mo ago

2

Okay! Took the old regulator out today and installed a new Autolite from NPD, also got the suppressor and correct mounting bolts. I have a new headlight switch I also need to install - didn’t actually get a chance to test the lights since it was during the day but no issues on the install so there’s that - ha - will report back. Also had to take the old one apart just to see what was going on in there, look at those wound coils!

See less See more

Reactions: 2

Woodchuck

· #14 · 7 mo ago

matnetik said:
Okay! Took the old regulator out today and installed a new Autolite from NPD, also got the suppressor and correct mounting bolts. I have a new headlight switch I also need to install - didn’t actually get a chance to test the lights since it was during the day but no issues on the install so there’s that - ha - will report back. Also had to take the old one apart just to see what was going on in there, look at those wound coils!

You'd be surprised to know that unless the relays and associated electronics are damaged, a bit of dressing of the contacts with a point file and some adjustments will bring that regulator back working just fine and dandy.

Reactions: 1

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #15 · 7 mo ago

Woodchuck said:
You'd be surprised to know that unless the relays and associated electronics are damaged, a bit of dressing of the contacts with a point file and some adjustments will bring that regulator back working just fine and dandy.

Oh yeah I bet with a little TLC it would be good as new! Btw appreciate your suggestion on the suppressor!

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #16 · 6 mo ago

Installed the new headlight switch (this needed to happen regardless, was hard to get the dash lights on because the old unit was finicky), new ground from block to firewall, VR is grounded properly, ground to radiator support and the lights are still pulsing in Drive or Park with the engines RPM.

I suppose next test is the alternator? I have a new battery, need to check voltage off and on with the car as well. I recently replaced all the wiring for the alternator, starter and solenoid / coil.

See less See more

Woodchuck

· #17 · 6 mo ago

matnetik said:
Installed the new headlight switch (this needed to happen regardless, was hard to get the dash lights on because the old unit was finicky), new ground from block to firewall, VR is grounded properly, ground to radiator support and the lights are still pulsing in Drive or Park with the engines RPM.

I suppose next test is the alternator? I have a new battery, need to check voltage off and on with the car as well. I recently replaced all the wiring for the alternator, starter and solenoid / coil.

Time to check the alternator diodes. Grab your multimeter and set to a low-range AC volts scale and put the probes on the battery posts with the engine running. You should see NO AC voltage.

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #18 · 6 mo ago

3

Well I am assuming this answers my question on the alternator?

With the engine on the DC fluctuates between 14.8 up to 16V
AC fluctuates between .1 and .5V

I suppose the next question is, if I were going to replace the alternator, which one? I would want to go with PowerMaster for sure but there are so many to choose from! If I understand correctly, this is a 3G alternator setup?

See less See more

Woodchuck

· #19 · 6 mo ago

matnetik said:
Well I am assuming this answers my question on the alternator?

With the engine on the DC fluctuates between 14.8 up to 16V
AC fluctuates between .1 and .5V

I suppose the next question is, if I were going to replace the alternator, which one? I would want to go with PowerMaster for sure but there are so many to choose from! If I understand correctly, this is a 3G alternator setup?

I'm not concerned with the marginal AC voltage as much as the high DC voltage. I wouldn't want to see DC voltage much exceed 14.7v at the battery terminals at 1,500 rpm or so. You might want to check out a different brand VR. If you decide to go with an alternator swap, I'd go with a 93-95 Aerostar 95A 3G unit with internal regulator... pretty much a direct bolt-in with some minor wiring changes.

www.dbelectrical.com

Alternator 3.0L Aerostar 1992-1994/7.5 F150 F250 F350 Pickup 1996-1997

Shop for the Alternator 3.0 Aerostar 92 93 94/7.5 F150 F250 F350 Pickup 96 97 at DB Electrical. The best selection, low prices, fast shipping, and great customer service.

www.dbelectrical.com

and

www.amazon.com

Amazon.com: Wire Harness Connector ASI 2G 3G 4G with 3G Stator Lead for Ford Alternator : Automotive

Buy Wire Harness Connector ASI 2G 3G 4G with 3G Stator Lead for Ford Alternator: Repair & Upgrade Kits - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #20 · 6 mo ago

Woodchuck said:
I'm not concerned with the marginal AC voltage as much as the high DC voltage. I wouldn't want to see DC voltage much exceed 14.7v at the battery terminals at 1,500 rpm or so. You might want to check out a different brand VR. If you decide to go with an alternator swap, I'd go with a 93-95 Aerostar 95A 3G unit with internal regulator... pretty much a direct bolt-in with some minor wiring changes.

Alternator 3.0L Aerostar 1992-1994/7.5 F150 F250 F350 Pickup 1996-1997

Shop for the Alternator 3.0 Aerostar 92 93 94/7.5 F150 F250 F350 Pickup 96 97 at DB Electrical. The best selection, low prices, fast shipping, and great customer service.

www.dbelectrical.com

and

Amazon.com: Wire Harness Connector ASI 2G 3G 4G with 3G Stator Lead for Ford Alternator : Automotive

Buy Wire Harness Connector ASI 2G 3G 4G with 3G Stator Lead for Ford Alternator: Repair & Upgrade Kits - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

I did start the engine seconds before taking this video so it was nowhere near warm but yeah pretty wild changes there. Going to run to UPS and will measure again once I return to see if there is any changes when warm.

I am all good with wiring, that's my speciality, you wouldn't recommend the Powermaster units? I've read good things about them, just curious. The VR is this one from NPD - VOLTAGE REGULATOR, ALTERNATOR - #10316-2A - National Parts Depot

1 - 20 of 57 Posts