Pulsing lights at idle - how old is this regulator??

2124 Views 56 Replies 10 Participants Last post by matnetik, 6 mo ago

matnetik

Discussion Starter · 7 mo ago

Here’s what I know - lights pulse at idle - will get some video this weekend.

I believe it’s just the headlights, not sure if it’s inside as well
3 wire alternator, new cables (unsure how old it is but keeps everything charged and battery reads 13.5v atm)
New solenoid and new battery
New instrument panel regulator
New ground strap from alternator to block, from block to firewall and to radiator
All new bulbs and light housing / cleaned connectors
Just ordered a new headlight switch because mine has been a bit finicky.

I am thinking it’s this 40+ year old voltage regulator or is this a replacement? Easiest way to test? Or just replace? Any recommendations for a solid state unit? Doesn’t need to look factory or anything but would love plug and play. As always, thanks!

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Woodchuck

· #41 · 6 mo ago

matnetik said:
-original BAT wire from car is taped off and not being used

Do you have battery voltage at the "A" terminal on your dummy regulator?

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #42 · 6 mo ago

Woodchuck said:
Do you have battery voltage at the "A" terminal on your dummy regulator?

Will check tomorrow after the rain, I am assuming that the “A” terminal runs parallel with wire that was previously connected to the alternators BAT meaning I need to connect it to the B+ terminal on the alternator? I saw someone did that in this thread and it worked for him - thanks for the late reply

Woodchuck

· #43 · 6 mo ago

matnetik said:
Will check tomorrow after the rain, I am assuming that the “A” terminal runs parallel with wire that was previously connected to the alternators BAT meaning I need to connect it to the B+ terminal on the alternator? I saw someone did that in this thread and it worked for him - thanks for the late reply

See the splice in the original harness. The "output wire" from the alternator goes in 4 separate directions (regulator, inside the passenger compartment for the "feeds", the ammeter and to the battery, via the common lug on the solenoid. Lacking these splices in the replacement harness, wires need to go to a common point. In the case of the output wire these can be picked up at the BAT terminal on the alternator or the common lug on the solenoid. It doesn't matter which, other than for the ammeter.... The ammeter is a "special animal" as it's a shunt type and both wires going to the ammeter are exactly equal in length and the wire spliced to the alternator output is located at a point that effectively "zeroes" the gauge.

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matnetik

Discussion Starter · #44 · 6 mo ago

Woodchuck said:
See the splice in the original harness. The "output wire" from the alternator goes in 4 separate directions (regulator, inside the passenger compartment for the "feeds", the ammeter and to the battery, via the common lug on the solenoid. Lacking these splices in the replacement harness, wires need to go to a common point. In the case of the output wire these can be picked up at the BAT terminal on the alternator or the common lug on the solenoid. It doesn't matter which, other than for the ammeter.... The ammeter is a "special animal" as it's a shunt type and both wires going to the ammeter are exactly equal in length and the wire spliced to the alternator output is located at a point that effectively "zeroes" the gauge.

Brilliant reply - will solder and add a ring connector and put it with the B+ terminal - should solve the issue - the PA instructions don’t mention this wire so it was a bit confusing and I was worried about high amps traveling through it but I suppose the 4G battery cable with fuse takes care of that!

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #45 · 6 mo ago (Edited)

Connected the the older BAT wire to the B+ on the alternator, still no charging.

Yellow or ”A” at VR is getting 12V with ignition on or off
Green/Red “S” is getting 12V with ignition ON
Orange ”F” is not showing any voltage regardless of ignition on or off (this is the wire that is attached to the PA Performance green/red wire on the harness)

It started, I checked the battery to see if it was charging, even rev’ed it to a higher RPM and no change in the voltage at the battery. Then I shut it off and now it won’t start at all. The starter is just spinning, coil has power, just replaced the starter solenoid (just in case, and needed one with longer studs anyway) and still won’t turn over, I’m clueless, maybe it’s just flooded - it started to rain so will have to get back to it on Tuesday when it clears up.

Even tried a new coil just to see but no luck. Very odd. Still need to move the ground to that center bolt on the ALT to see if it fixes the issue but I need to get the car running again in order to check. I did however put a jump from the ground on the block to the ALT center post but the car still wouldn’t start.

Maybe the battery is just low, was reading 12.48V - going to leave it on the trickle charger until Tuesday-

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Woodchuck

· #46 · 6 mo ago

matnetik said:
Yellow or ”A” at VR is getting 12V with ignition on or off = Just the way it should be.
Green/Red “S” is getting 12V with ignition ON = Just the way it should be.
Orange ”F” is not showing any voltage regardless of ignition on or off (this is the wire that is attached to the PA Performance green/red wire on the harness) Not the way it should be.

Check the continuity between the FLD post on the alternator and the "F" terminal in the regulator plug. You should have less than 0.1 Ohm. I'm not familiar with the color codes used by the PA Performance harness, but there needs to be a direct connection between the regulator "F" and the alternator FLD.

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #47 · 6 mo ago

Woodchuck said:
Check the continuity between the FLD post on the alternator and the "F" terminal in the regulator plug. You should have less than 0.1 Ohm. I'm not familiar with the color codes used by the PA Performance harness, but there needs to be a direct connection between the regulator "F" and the alternator FLD.

I did test resistant a few days ago and can confirm the red/green or field from the alternator is the one going to F on the VR - will check again for continuity. I do have my electronic choke spliced into that line, wonder if that’s something to do with it? With the ignition on, the electronic choke is showing 12V.

maybe I should move the electronic choke to the stator wire (PA suggest this)

Woodchuck

· #48 · 6 mo ago

matnetik said:
I did test resistant a few days ago and can confirm the red/green or field from the alternator is the one going to F on the VR - will check again for continuity. I do have my electronic choke spliced into that line, wonder if that’s something to do with it? With the ignition on, the electronic choke is showing 12V.

maybe I should move the electronic choke to the stator wire (PA suggest this)

Choke should NOT be connected to the Field wire. Power in the Field wire, controlled by the regulator, tells the alternator to charge.

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matnetik

Discussion Starter · #49 · 6 mo ago

Woodchuck said:
Choke should NOT be connected to the Field wire. Power in the Field wire, controlled by the regulator, tells the alternator to charge.

Excellent, will change this, what interesting is that the end of the electronic choke is reading 12v but the end of the F from isn't and they are spliced together - this brings be to believe there is something happening between the connector and the harness VR connector, going to track it down today now that the rain stopped, change the ground and the choke. Appreciate you again!

Hopefully it starts today now that it's been charging and sitting all night

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matnetik

Discussion Starter · #50 · 6 mo ago (Edited)

Okay, re-wired and soldered all connections, can confirm continuity from field wire on the PA harness to orange F wire in VR harness. Redid all the grounds from block to alternator and from harness to alternator in the center post as they recommended, wired the electronic choke to the stator wire as recommended by PA.

Issue now is the car won't turn over at all, I've tried holding the pedal to the floor, I put a new coil in just in case, the battery read 13v this morning after it charged all night and I got nothing - I don't understand because the only thing that has changed is the alternator and the wiring for it - my car ran totally fine a week ago with the old alternator - I am extremely lost on this one - Can confirm it's getting fuel in the bowl

Woodchuck

· #51 · 6 mo ago

Car "turns over" just fine...and WANTS to start. Did you pump the pedal once to set the choke?

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #52 · 6 mo ago

Oh yeah, that's how I start it every time, one pump then turn and it fires up every time. Going to grab a set of jumper cables and connect it to my other car, maybe it just needs a little boost - in the past I have even flooded it, held the pedal to the floor and it'll start

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #53 · 6 mo ago

Jumped to my other car, got battery voltage at 13.3 - still won't run, tried starter fluid in the carb and nothing. I am so beyond clueless as to what could be going on - double checked all grounds and wiring. I also tried jumping the electronic choke straight to 12v just while cranking to see if there was an issue there and no luck. I am honestly at the point of putting the old alternator back in and seeing if it starts. I don't understand why it wouldn't start considering changing the alternator shouldn't affect starting -

Getting some white smoke out of the exhaust and it smells like gas specifically. I could only assume it's beyond flooded at this point and maybe I just need to let it sit for a few days. Any help is much appreciated - all this to stop the lights from pulsing (I'm over here kicking myself haha)

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Woodchuck

· #54 · 6 mo ago

matnetik said:
Jumped to my other car, got battery voltage at 13.3 - still won't run, tried starter fluid in the carb and nothing. I am so beyond clueless as to what could be going on - double checked all grounds and wiring. I also tried jumping the electronic choke straight to 12v just while cranking to see if there was an issue there and no luck. I am honestly at the point of putting the old alternator back in and seeing if it starts. I don't understand why it wouldn't start considering changing the alternator shouldn't affect starting -

Getting some white smoke out of the exhaust and it smells like gas specifically. I could only assume it's beyond flooded at this point and maybe I just need to let it sit for a few days. Any help is much appreciated - all this to stop the lights from pulsing (I'm over here kicking myself haha)

Toss in a new set of plugs but, before you do, check dwell while cranking...

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matnetik

Discussion Starter · #55 · 6 mo ago (Edited)

The distributor is a pertronix - I just can't understand what could have changed from swapping out the alternator and why it won't run - plugs smelt like gas obviously - I feel like it has to be electrical considering it ran just fine before I changed it

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #56 · 6 mo ago

Although I knew it had nothing to do with starting, I put the old alternator back in - no change. Put the PA one in again after that. I am so confused. Test spark on plug 1 and it does spark - going to get plugs

matnetik

Discussion Starter · #57 · 6 mo ago

Well well well!!! @Woodchuck simple yet expert advice saves the day yet again! Dropped in new Motorcraft plugs, jumped to my other car and IT STARTED RIGHT UP!!

Battery is getting 14.6V at idle and 14.5 with the headlights on - everything is working like a charm, I let it idle for about 10 minutes, went for a whip around the block, was a bit rough (assuming this is due to all the fuel and starter fluid in the carb) had to raise the idle screw a tad because it wanted to die but I need to drive it and get all that out. Maybe need to adjust the gap on the plugs, might be missing a bit. Anyway, we can finally put an end to this thread! Old plugs below, clearly fouled as suggested.

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