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Discussion Starter #1
WHAT YALL DOIN? DROP SOME PHOTOS! - MY PICS WILL COME ASAP
  • Extended (influenced) :sneaky: my quarters out ward about an inch each side to accommodate my diff width (rear end's out of a 69).
  • Removed rust (and prior repairs) on the bottom of the quarter panels towards the front of rear wheels.
  • Closed up the gap between the rear quarters and the rocker panels
  • Shaved/welded up rocker panel studs/holes for lower trim piece
  • Shaved my drip rails ONLY due to rust... removal and welding is completed, just skim'n some mud
  • Welded up quarter panel trim holes (where side scoops would go)
  • Cut out MORE rust atop drivers side of windshield which practically went to the rear view mirror ?
  • Removed yet again MORE RUST on passenger side of windshield .. corner of course with my luck (that is a MOTHER- to sculpt once all sheet metal repair is done, btw.
  • Scooped up a Maier Racing front apron for $150 with integrated spoiler!!! Had to cut that B!TCH off as I thought it stuck out to much.
  • Ordered a 600 double pumper with vacuum secondary's and auto choke from Holley , one of them shiny QUICK FUEL - Slayer Series. - currently sporting a modified 700DP atop my k-code heads lol.
  • Replaced my Motorcraft plugs that were arching onto primary tubes 7 and 8 with some Autolite 45's
  • Purchased some cheap plug wire boots (thank you amazon)
  • HEI STUFF- Installed Mr. Gasket curve kit / stock springs, MSD coil, and ACCEL 4048 super stock wires.
    All this in about a week and a half of being laid off from work LOL. Grew up in a body shop and mechanic by trade, so this stuffs just plain old fun to me. ??
  • Everything in guide coat for the moment as I still need v8 steering components (minus v8 spindles/drums) , a steering box that doesn't want to kill when driving, possible power steering setup?, and front manual disc/drum master and disc setup.
    will upload pics a soon as I transfer them from my phone.
 

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I’d love to see how you massaged your rear guards for the wider rear end. I’m going to be using an 8.8 from a 95 GT which is 1 3/4” wider on each side, but I can get that down to 1” by changing to non ABS axles. I don’t think I want to go a modern backspaced rim, so not sure how tucked a 17x8 will need to be with 4.5” backspace on a rear that’s 2” wider overall.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I’d love to see how you massaged your rear guards for the wider rear end. I’m going to be using an 8.8 from a 95 GT which is 1 3/4” wider on each side, but I can get that down to 1” by changing to non ABS axles. I don’t think I want to go a modern backspaced rim, so not sure how tucked a 17x8 will need to be with 4.5” backspace on a rear that’s 2” wider overall.
I used a bottle and scissor jack to push the wheel areas (by the lip) of the quarters as far out as I needed. I then had to grind/weld/patch any areas that got affected from stretching/expanding. The other part is, the quarters are a two piece union of thin metal (so to speak), so do at your own risk. For me it wasn't a big deal as the cars in primer and im doing a lot of body work. I tried using a fender roller as best i could after but had to make relief cuts to make it easier... truth be told it didnt help much but it came out okay no show car.
if your doing the body work or willing to try this and possibly crack your pant or have to bust out the grinder or favorite persuading tool go for it ! or check out Maier Racing they have metal fender flares.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
sounds like you have been busy
Very busy! Today I received and installed my new quick fule carb, drilled out the shock towers and did the 1" Shelby drop, and performed a valve adjustment. Still it wasn't enough for me so I decided to replace the injectors and replace the headlights on my 90 gt from the single piece crap to the original three piece units along with HID'S ?
 

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I got that maier racing front valance and you are right about the spoiler I cut about half of it off, rounded the ends near the fenders then came to a blunt point at the front, sorry no pics now. I am also working on installing led lights for turn signals inside the air duct holes
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I just sold y 90 GT 5 minutes ago to get my car dialed in perfectly to daily drive it. I let the poor ol girl go but she needed a motor, paint job , and body work. only have 2k to play with after bills and what not paid.
 

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Unfortunately I am away from my car and cannot finish it off. I have been working on my new house, electrical, painting, putting well into service.
 

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I am looking forward to your photos and updates! I’m am nowhere close to your work output, but I did powerbleed brake system with fresh DOT 5, replaced old worn out warped rear drums, complete rebuild with wheel cylinders and pf PS4 shoes, pressed and replaced worn AC idler pulley, replaced 4-1/2” ps pulley with 5-7/8” and am having to rebuild original front calipers due to stuck pad gouging them. Just ordered crossmember from ZRay and will have Dan recurve my dizzy for B302 spec. Next is drill out clutch pedal stop to early ‘65 spec to get my pedals to line up and then weld tabs to seat frame to extend back due to long legs. The list goes on and on but those are the highlights.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Hey Guys !!! Got pics figured out, didn't mean to bomb the thread but uploading was a pain lol.. anyways heres some pics. if needed I can grab more pics for you guys sat/sun as its raining all day Friday I believe.. Lemme know!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
After pushing quarters out before body work (got sidetracked welding/ grinding forgot to take pics of that part just before and afters) :cry: everything has been cut and replaced with sheet metal, no pre-made patch panels,enjoy!
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Discussion Starter #13
So after welding up my seams, emblem holes, patching door rot and shaving the rocker panel studs off everything was skimmed, sanded and sprayed with primer with a decent guide coat :giggle:

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Discussion Starter #14
Yummy yummy roof rot. this went to about the rear veiw mirrors or half the length of the glass. (didn't get pics) had to cut out pass side corner as well and weld in a 2 piece patch, and skim back up... really wish I got pics of the fab/welding portions. kept having to remind myself if I don't take pics I wont have anything to look back on other than the finished result. :cry:
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Discussion Starter #15
Heres the roof portions after I replaced the sheet metal and did filler/primer. Removed existing trim studs as there will be no trim on front or rears. (every thing was flux core welded) lots of wet rags,spray bottle by side, cardboard, and multiple eye cleanings LOL!!
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Discussion Starter #17
This is where the drip rails got down and dirty. again no sheet metal/welding pics. sorry, it was so bad i just cuttem off!
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Discussion Starter #18
HAHA! have a couple progress pics here but not much!.. so i just cut them straight down and followed roof line going down towards where the structure meets top skin, and tacked along outer seam inside and making it a lot easier with one line of welds instead of drilling out spot welds instead of adding a peice and having to deal with 2 or 3 seams by adding a strip between structure and top skin like most have done, (from my research anyways).
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Discussion Starter #19
After i weld/grind/ skimmed& sand. I primed and guide coat. TIP: try to cut straight along roof skin to where you can fold and weld under where I did so welds are tucked under rather than exposed. this made it unnecessarily difficult to grind flush and bondo/skim. took me a whole day to do both sides just skimming and getting straight enough for my liking.
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Discussion Starter #20
Pass. side drip rail and radiator opened I opened up for my 64' impala 3 row. trimmed w/ cutoff wheel and deburred.
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solid mounted the radiator for now w/ temp trans cooler from autozone ... $40?
 
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