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Discussion Starter #1
After long hours of contemplation and a my failed attempt at a quality job of replacing the botched PO's repair. I've decided to replace the entire panel.

A section patch didn't work because the repop patch panels are lacking in re-creating the "C" body line crease. It's not near as sharp.
Fitting a small patch in a complicated body area is not the best approach either. The full panel is by far the best way to go for me as even the rear lower section is bad from a previous repair.
It will be great to have new sheet metal on that quarter.

I'm ordering a Dynacorn panel to match the drivers door. If the new panel is as good of quality as the new door, I should have no trouble matching body lines.

I've got a great video on replacing the panel from Kevin Tetz where he details the process. He used a lead substitute for the roof to quarter joint where Ford originally used lead.

I would rather not deal with the solder so I'm hoping to use an appropriate plastic filler instead. Supposedly lead was used originally for slight flexibility.

If you've had experience with this repair, please share your comments about replacing this quarter and filling this joint.

I've already done extensive rocker repairs so that nastiness is gone now.

 

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Geesh, and I thought I welded poorly!! The PO did you no favors.

I have to replace the quarter skins on my 67, I bought a rear corner from Mustang plus and it's from probably 24 ga metal...........needless to say, that won't be going on Alice without at least some sort of backing. I'm worried that the panel skins would be the same junk, is there a better shop to get them from? All I need is the lower rear and around the flare, the rest is fine.

Thanks and good luck.
Greg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes the PO's skills were only slightly better than his desire for a quality job. He or she welded in .125" steel plate for that panel patch. Fit was fine tuned with a sledge hammer and copious quantities of Bondo added for a fine finish under the Earl Shieb paint job.

If you can wait till I get my complete quarter panel from Dynacorn I'll be happy to let you know the quality.

I also considered just buying a quarter skin for about $60 vs. $260 for the complete quarter.
I've decided patching panels is a bad idea if the panel is the slightest bit complicated. Too many areas to match up. The rear lower quarter patch might be the exception, though only if the rust damage was limited to the very bottom of the panel.

Would the patch you have work if you laminated additional sheet metal on the inside with panel adhesive? You couldn't weld a laminate to it, the warp would ruin the panel but glue might work.

Just a thought, a dumb one maybe but it was free.
 

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I was gonna cut about 3-4 inches below the body line on the skin, then match the skin to the panel and get the cut line......take the left over skin and make a backing. The backing would be tacked from the inside of the panel.

Screws to hole the skin in place, a VERY slow process of taking (from the inside of the panel........read my comment in my Alice thread to see how I totally fubarred my top....thats why I said VERY slow..........the problem is that back corner is so thin. If I use it, Ill have to back it with some 20 ga or something......probably will tack the 20 and glue the patch to the 20........jacked up I know, but Im not sure where to go from here (after my top fiasco)

Good luck, and I would love to hear how your panels look when u get them.
 

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I'm doing a rear quarter skin right now. I just finished getting the new outer wheel house welded in and I also replaced the trunk drop down panel that the quarter welds to on the bottom. The wheel house doesn't fit exactly perfect so I've had to muscle it a bit.

I've probably trial fitted my quarter 30 times. I have it just about right now but it has been a process. The repop pieces of metal don't just go on there. I've had to massage every one of mine.

I cut my old quarter off about 1/2 inch below the corner line. I still haven't decided where I will make my cut; below the corner, at the corner, above the corner? My thinking right now is just below the corner so the original corner metal will help give it some strength. My welding will be on the side instead of the top too so it will be easier to work).

It looks to me like the top line cut needs to be welded first to bring the panel down to the right position. Then the front back and bottom can be stuck down they way they are supposed to fit. Right now with the panel overlapped I have a very tight fit at the lower tip of the wheel house in the back. The trunk panel, wheel house and rear quarter all have to mate up properly at this one point. I can't remember now where I got my rear quarter but its decent metal(NPD I think).
 

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Danger Will Robinson, danger!

The repop 68 quarters have the wrong contour around the "side scoop" area. The manfacturer got cheap and used the contour from 1967 instead and it is NOT the same. The NPD catalog even points this out.

I ended up buying NOS quarters because of this problem. They show up on ebay from time to time but be prepared to pay $600-1000 for them (each).

Somebody may be making a repop that is correct but you need to do some research.
 

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I was going to say... did you buy the car in Missouri??? The PO of my Mustang did the exact same thing! Maybe they went to the same body shop school! .125 steel plate with PLENTY of bondo. Had to replace the whole pannel. Did you also have fiberglass patches over the rusted out floor holes?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
No fiberglass but the floor pans were replaced.
The PO cut out the old pans and dropped in the new ones and spot welded them into place.

They fit awful. Think about stacking one cake pan into another, there is a large gap between the bottom of the lower pan and the bottom of the upper pan.
Thats what my floor pans looked like, no more though. I fixed em' right.

Welding in a quarter skin 2 inches below the top body line will be a huge challenge. I wish you luck.
 

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There is a product called All Metal that i used when i did my 1/4s . It will have to be ground down for it is metal (Aluminum filler ) with a epoxy hardner . Then you can use a light coat of plastic to finish it. Link to it . I picked it up at a local supply and works great .



http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/product.asp?dept_id=120&pf_id=149013
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Bobby,
How long has the All Metal been in place?
I have a new can and that is what I was planning on using. I just don't want to put all the work and money in the panel and paint and watch it flex crack.

I just spent $200 in K38 primer and I can only imaging what the base and clear is gonna be.
 

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Im curious as well, sounds like a possible filler for the pits I have on the top.
 

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I used a product called "DuraGlass" on mine. I've heard the All Metal works great too.

My Brother in Law swears by DuraGlass though. He's been using it for years, and claims to have never had a failure.

I was watching "Chop Cut Rebuild" and noticed the stereo installers were using it to shape speaker housings out of. He said they use it cause when it sets up, they can drill and tap it and screw covers, etc... to it. I can't imagine an application where the product would subject to more vibration than that.

I am hoping it holds up as well as I have been told. It seems to be a good product, from what I have seen so far.
 

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I used Metal2Metal on my fastback, and that sounds the same as the AllMetal. There are pictures on my website that showed what we went through in replacing one rear quarter and patching the other.

www.tucsonpony.com/Troubleexterior.html
 
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