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Discussion Starter #1
I was thinking of trying my hand at some minor body work. The bottom drivers side of my valance has a small dent in it from when I unloaded the car off the trailer last year. The paint is chipped and there is a very small inward dimple in it. I have a beginners set of body hammers and dollys.

I was planning on masking the area off, sanding it down, and hammering out the dent. Than I assume filler, more sanding, primer and paint.

Its an area that won't be seen so i thinking its a good place to start.

Any hints, recommendations, advice?
751080
 

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Without drilling a hole to access the back of the dent you'll have some issues. I'm no expert at "paintless" dent repair but, although the paint IS damaged, the technique to "work" that small dent is the same and maybe an expert could access it through a hole drilled under the sill plate so it'd be covered up later. That method would probably eliminate the need for any filler with just sanding, priming, sealing and painting to facilitate the repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
@Woodchuck ,

I removed the front valance, bumper, and grill. My cherry picker doesn't quite reach all the way in so it's easier to pull and install the engine without the front clip on.

My feeling was, while it's out and since I'll have to wait a few weeks for my engine........
 

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With it off the car it’s a good first time hammer and dolly gig. When final coating the spot repair study up on using a blending solvent. That way the paint blends better and the new color less noticeable or in many cases not at all. Better yet skim, prime and paint the entire part and you won’t need a blender. That will give you the most practice for basic paint and body.
 

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Nothing like trying to fix a problem on your on.
Yes remove the valance, use you dolly and hammer. Keep working the metal till you FEEL WITH YOUR FINGERS the smoothness, curvature of the metal. Yes it take time to get the feel, not overnite, but it can be accomplish. Not a thing in this world better than "I done this myself.
 

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D'oh.... I don't know why I was thinking ROCKER PANEL. That should be an easy fix. Just be careful not to work the metal TOO much and stretch it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks everyone. There are some other areas that could be fixed so maybe I'll just sand it down to bare metal and repaint the whole thing.

Now I get to buy a paint gun! He who dies with the most tools wins, right?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
D'oh.... I don't know why I was thinking ROCKER PANEL. That should be an easy fix. Just be careful not to work the metal TOO much and stretch it.
I've got some reading, watching to do. Can't you both shrink and stretch metal by how you hammer it? Maybe I'll buy a good book. Any recommendations?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Caper!
 

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I've got some reading, watching to do. Can't you both shrink and stretch metal by how you hammer it? Maybe I'll buy a good book. Any recommendations?
Yes you can, you use different hammers for each.
 

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Blending is never as good as painting a whole panel if the paint matches your other panels which depends on gun pressure, temp, humidity, etc
 

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I tried watching all the body and paint videos on YouTube. Most were completely useless. A few had a couple of useful points of information, but only after dealing with long, irrelevant monologues, lots of profanity and constant smoking. Very tedious.

I went with the "Paintucation" videos from Kevin Tetz. Some of them are getting pretty old, but they're still relevant. He's gone to an online format now. Highly Recommend the Paintucation series. I learned a lot and used what I learned to paint my car. I don't benefit in any way for promoting Kevin's videos. I will say I interviewed him for a newsletter article and he's a genuinely good guy who really knows his stuff. So, I'm happy to recommend his videos. Yes, they require a fee. but it's so worth it.


FYI, I researched paint guns until my eyes were bleeding. I went with a Tekna Prolite and I'm really happy with it. Only disadvantage is you can't get large tips for spraying filler primer. I used a Harbor Freight gun for that.
 

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I tried watching all the body and paint videos on YouTube. Most were completely useless. A few had a couple of useful points of information, but only after dealing with long, irrelevant monologues, lots of profanity and constant smoking. Very tedious.
Sounds like the typical You Tube clip... ? :D Add poor camera work and audio and many if not most are a time sink. Another +1 on the Tetz videos. Wish I would have found Tetz earlier. I painted a few race cars before really learning about auto paint. I had some bad habits to correct and some still carry over.

One You Tube channel I find helpful is The Gunman. He’s a higher end pro painter, collision, some higher end cars, a good mix. He’s from a land down under (where women glow and men plunder...). To the point, no BS and plenty of info relevant for noobs and novices like me.


FYI, I researched paint guns until my eyes were bleeding. I went with a Tekna Prolite and I'm really happy with it. Only disadvantage is you can't get large tips for spraying filler primer. I used a Harbor Freight gun for that.
I used the HF gun for a while. They’ve got something now that looks like they’re taking a run at Devilbiss or Iwata. I ended up with an Iwata LPH400 with a 1.4 tip for clear and color and an Air Gunsa AZ3HTE2 (Iwata mid range) with a 1.8 tip for primer. For higher end guns the clear and color guns usually don’t go above a 1.5 tip. For someone that doesn’t want or need a high end gun either the Deilbiss Starting Line or an Air Gunsa is a good choice at around $100. For the OP the HF cheapie will be a good gun to learn with.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Thanks everyone. I'll check out the recommended videos.

Today i was abe to remove the engine. Back to the builder tomorrow than I can concentrate on the valance.
 

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One You Tube channel I find helpful is The Gunman. He’s a higher end pro painter, collision, some higher end cars, a good mix. He’s from a land down under (where women glow and men plunder...). To the point, no BS and plenty of info relevant for noobs and novices like me.
Yeah, The Gunman was the only YouTube person of any real value. One of the reasons I went with the Tekna Prolite is The Gunman liked it. It was between that and the LPH 400. They were priced similarly, but the Tekna came with a nice, aluminum cup, three tips and a digital air pressure gauge. The Iwata came with nothing. Also, The Gunman said the Iwata would be a little harder to use for a beginner.
 

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Yeah, The Gunman was the only YouTube person of any real value. One of the reasons I went with the Tekna Prolite is The Gunman liked it. It was between that and the LPH 400. They were priced similarly, but the Tekna came with a nice, aluminum cup, three tips and a digital air pressure gauge. The Iwata came with nothing. Also, The Gunman said the Iwata would be a little harder to use for a beginner.
I got the Iwata used on ebay for $200 then bought a rebuild kit. It‘s the LVX version that’s got a high end tip not that I could tell the difference between that and the standard tip. Had I not gotten a deal I don’t think I‘d had gone with a high end gun. My limiting factor is the gun needs to be LVLP so my compressor can keep up. That limits my gun choice a fair mount.

I don’t know if it was more difficult in general but the degree of adjustment and the precision of the adjustment took some getting use to. When you turn a knob even a bit it makes a noticeable difference compared to the HF gun. I had to scuff respray the first couple of color panels I did and color sand and respray the first clears I did because I was learning the adjustments.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So I decided to spot repair the valance. It's in a spot that is very hard to view. I sanded the area down to bare metal. Worked it with a hammer and dolly and got it pretty smooth.(pat myself on the back) @67 Doctor has a thread on painting and there is tons of info there from everyone. Question is for a spot repair on surface like the lower valance, do you need to go thru the same steps?

I just put a filler on after sanding down to bare metal. I'll block it with guide coat. After that do I go thru the same steps as if panting the whole car? Epoxy primer, urethane primer, sealer, and paint?

Or do you handle spot repairs differently?

Thanks
 
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Check some of the local body shops. I found a used Binks for $50. The shop couldn't use it anymore because it was no longer approved by "the authorities" for commercial use. Where you're a private citizen like me and not using it all day, every day, you're OK.
 

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I tried watching all the body and paint videos on YouTube. Most were completely useless. A few had a couple of useful points of information, but only after dealing with long, irrelevant monologues, lots of profanity and constant smoking. Very tedious.

I went with the "Paintucation" videos from Kevin Tetz. Some of them are getting pretty old, but they're still relevant. He's gone to an online format now. Highly Recommend the Paintucation series. I learned a lot and used what I learned to paint my car. I don't benefit in any way for promoting Kevin's videos. I will say I interviewed him for a newsletter article and he's a genuinely good guy who really knows his stuff. So, I'm happy to recommend his videos. Yes, they require a fee. but it's so worth it.


FYI, I researched paint guns until my eyes were bleeding. I went with a Tekna Prolite and I'm really happy with it. Only disadvantage is you can't get large tips for spraying filler primer. I used a Harbor Freight gun for that.

My friend Pete ?
 
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