Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,560 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i have the front of my cleveland disassembled to replace the water pump. since i have all of the accessory items already removed, i plan to detail and paint the engine compartment in a similar fashion to that described on the karmustang site (http://www.karmustang.com/engdetailing1.htm). this will entail removing the distributor. what do i need to do prior to removing the distributor, and what instructions/advice can any of you give me to follow as i reinstall it? thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,911 Posts
I note the position of the rotor and housing relative to the engine...this will help in getting the timing close

when reinstalling, the oil pump driveshaft is always a pain....it's 6-sided, and always manages to work its way around a little further than you need...

when stabbing a dizzy I always drop it in and if it doesnt just fall completely in, I lift it slightly and drop it again and again...this seems to work everything in place.....

When I crank her up, I immediately look for oil pressure and if I get any funny indications, I shut her down NOW!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,926 Posts
Why are you removing the Dist.? If it is to paint and you are concerned about overspray, A trick is to remove the wires and cap, then cover the dist body/shaft with alumninum foil from the kitchen. Spray away with paint to your heart's content, and when through, remove the alumn. foil.

If you need to remove the dist, first turn the engine over to TDC with number one piston on the firing stroke. YOu can check this by take a scratch awl and making a faint mark on your dist. body right below th enumber 1 spark plug wire terminal of the cap. Then, remove the cap, rotate the engine to TDC and see if the rotor is pointing at the scratch mark. If so, you are at TDC number 1 firing, if the rotor does not line up, you are 180 degrees out on the dist and need to rotate the crank one complete revolution to TDC again. Now, you can pull your dist. knowing where the rotor should be when you drop it in again.

When it comes time to reinstall, put the rotor a few degrees of rotation counterclockwise ahead of the scratch mark on the dist. body. This is cause the splines on the shaft are slightly curved so that the shaft actually rotates a few degrees as you drop the dist. in. Usually, the dist will drop almost all the way in, but due to misalignment with the oil pump drive shaft and the socket at the base of the dist. shaft, the dist won't seat. To resolve that issue, rotate the engine a bit and that will turn the oil pump drive shaft and the dist. should drop in. Some people bump the starter to do that. If all else fails to get this lined up, you can use a 1/4 inch deep socket on a long extension (1/4 inch drive), duct tape the socket to the extension, then slip it down the dist. shaft hole and use it to rotate the oil pump drive shaft a 1/8 turn or whatever it takes to line up with the dist.

It can be frustrating trying to get everything to line up, but sometimes you just get lucky and it drops right in. Good luck.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top