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Discussion Starter #1
So.... I am going to go forward, at least on paper, with rebuilding my 65 Coupe. Yes I have seen better. and have seen far worse, plus challenges are fun.....

Since I already have some structures cut out on the car I think my best first step, after some more rust assessment, is getting the car squared up again. So off to build a chassis jig....

I have this drawing by George Liskey, and have a few questions:
  1. Are all the numbers correct? I have heard that A and B are swapped.
  2. The 34-7/16" measurement. What is this? Is it the center of shock tower opening?
  3. The floor flange measurements, 54-3/4" & 55- 1/2", Where on the floor flange is this? Outside of welded seam, inside, some other location?
  4. Front leaf spring eye location, (3X), shows 6-1/2" above datum, then there is a measurement of 37-7/16" between holes at the front of the rear frame rail. I have to recheck, but I think those holes are compromised on my frame. Shouldn't the center of the front eyes be 43" as well, Ass-u-meing the 43" measurement for the c-c distance of the rear frame rail is correct. For me this may be an issue as both rear frame rails had the last 18" or so replaced. I may need some alternate measurement location.
  5. What do you consider "fixed points" Points that should be solidly tied to the jig. For the rear frame rails I am thinking the front bolt for leaf spring and the rear shackle bolts
  6. Since I have work to do at all 4 corners, is it better to do left side then right side, or front then back. I was thinking of 1 corner at a time to keep thinks as square as possible, but ....
Some random questions:
  1. How high should the datum line be from the floor? What is a comfortable working height? Is working underneath the body on the jig feasible?
  2. Monte Carlo bar measurement? The one I have seems about 1/4" too wide. I heard the cheap ones were off....
  3. Anyone know what a bare shell weighs?
I am sure there will be more questions as I go further...

thanks!
Rusty
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So to follow up a little. Looked at the car a little closer today.

Yep, last 18-24" of each rear frame rail was replaced, not even sure if the rails are from a Mustang. The gauge hole is not there, and the profile looks different, could just be the rust.
With that in mind I am thinking it would be better to do rears, then fronts. That way I can be sure that each are square to themselves, and the new pieces will have clean holes to measure from to line up the fronts to the rears.
If anyone has better ideas, let me know.....
 

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Always repair the worst thing first. If the left is worse than the right, do the left first.

The classic mistake is if, say, the rear rails are rotten, to cut them both off. Now you have no reference, and nothing is holding the car square.
 

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I can tell you that dimension G is not 21 1/2". That's the Falcon dimension. For the 65/66 Mustang, G is 22 1/4"
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I can tell you that dimension G is not 21 1/2". That's the Falcon dimension. For the 65/66 Mustang, G is 22 1/4"
Now I feel a little better , as I measured 22 1/16". Still not right, but closer..... and I was probably not as careful measuring as I could be.
 
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