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Upon closer look at that pic with the tire, it kinda looks like you valence is bent, you might be able to pull it out some....I‘m not where my car is or I’d look. Might compare it to the other side, maybe too large a tire for too long has pulled it back to where it hits all the time now.
Also, check a diagram and make sure all the brackets are attached to the valence, the is one in that area maybe it’s missing.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I do not know what the caster is set at and no adjustments have been made since I got the car.

I agree, I am thinking that the fender is too far back as you can see in pictures. However, this does effectively change the door gap on drivers side.

It is gonna be a project to take that fender and move it forward a half an inch isnt it? A lot of stuff needs to be undone correct?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
I will check that but I thought I did see a bracket that was not connected down there. It was a quick peek as I had to get going.

Thats a good thought. Didn't realize it looked bent. Thanks, will investigate.
 

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Question for gregb; about those 15x7's up front with the 3.75" backspace. You say you are running the 235/60/15 tires? Any issues ? I would like to run that set up on my 69. The wheel well and fenders look fine for the fit ? My concern is the upper control arm ball joint rubbing the tires interior side wall. Your thoughts ? Thanks, Brian
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Does anyone have pictures of the valance drivers side underneath where this bracket connects? I want to try to compare to a proper setup. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Could you also take one from outside looking into and under the valance from wheel well? Kind of like where you can see my pic of tire hitting.

Thanks

I definitely do not have that bracket attached...that I know.

Who knows what else is missing.
 

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FWIW...the strut rod adjustment determines the lower control arms front/back location. May be worth checking out ?
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I will have that checked out as well.

I have a decent amount of clearance too when the wheel.is straight. How much do you have when you turn it right a bit to where it would hit or is closest to the fender or valance?
 

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I have a nephew that put 295-50-15 on the rear of his '69 Mach 1. He had to massage the inner wheel houses a little and run a panhard bar to stop rubbing in corners. If he fit that you should be good with any thing less then that. Can't remember what he put on the front but it might have been 245s.
 

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Something to check is if the upper control arm is centered on the shaft. If it has worked it's way forward, then it'll cause this clearance issue. If it's centered, then you can shim the front stud to lay the arm back a bit. That'll pull the spindle back and help to clear the valance.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
So upon further inspection, the wheel on driver side is situated closed to the front of fender than passenger side. I did measurements on both, and it is about an inch more forward in the wheel well.

That being said, I stil believe that the issue could be the fender. The fender doesnt fit properly, but really that means starting to take apart body parts and essentially doing body work.

I believe someone said that this can be adjusted, maybe my the strut rod. I have a guy who can do that and do a manual alignment wth calcs, but may need to go get a real alignment afterward.

I am going to choose to move tbe wheel if its easy enough just because i dont want to get into body work now, whrn in a couple years i plan to have car redone and painted anyway. Makes no sense.

I just want it to be driveable amd useable for my wife and then we will do all proper fixes when time and money allows.

Thoughts?

Am I correct that this wheel can be adjusted back?

Thanks.
 

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The wheel will move forward and back when adjusting caster, as you do that with the strut rod. If your alignment is good, then as I posted previously, the upper control arm may be suspect. Jack it up and see if the upper arm is centered in the shock tower, and compare it to the passenger side.

 

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So upon further inspection, the wheel on driver side is situated closed to the front of fender than passenger side. I did measurements on both, and it is about an inch more forward in the wheel well.

That being said, I stil believe that the issue could be the fender. The fender doesnt fit properly, but really that means starting to take apart body parts and essentially doing body work.

I believe someone said that this can be adjusted, maybe my the strut rod. I have a guy who can do that and do a manual alignment wth calcs, but may need to go get a real alignment afterward.

I am going to choose to move tbe wheel if its easy enough just because i dont want to get into body work now, whrn in a couple years i plan to have car redone and painted anyway. Makes no sense.

I just want it to be driveable amd useable for my wife and then we will do all proper fixes when time and money allows.

Thoughts?

Am I correct that this wheel can be adjusted back?

Thanks.
Did you get the alignment #s checked?
Yes, less caster will move the tire back and would be my 1st fix then see about adjusting the fender forward or whatever might be going on with the valance. A couple of degrees makes a difference, I might go as low as +1*.

I'm curious to the actual diameter of that tire. My experience has been they can be 1/2 or even 3/4" taller, like my last truck tires, than actually listed.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I had it at the shop, and he made an adjustment of strut rod and adjusted castor, now the left wheel is a little more set back in wheel well, bit still not as far as passenger side.

It does have a slight pull tho.

I still have not checked a few more things that i have a friend coming by this weekend to check out.

It runs and drives fine now, just that slight pull. He said to bring it to have a proper alignment. He did what he could by measurements, but said to go have a proper one done.

We will call and look at that but a buddy who knows a lot is coming by to check out a few issues.
 
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