Vintage Mustang Forums banner

1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
here is my current set up!

68 302 block, .030 over c8oe 302 rods, ARP wave loc rod bolts, TRW forged flat tops. (L22?? something cant remember off top of my head) builder recomends plain rings, and clevite bearings. entire assembly will be balanced as well as all that other good stuff (chamfering, polishing magnufluxing etc.)
melling high volume oil pump, fel pro gaskets, windage tray....

69 351W heads, c9oe-G book says 1.84/1.54 valves and 60.4 cc's for what its worth. i am ordering ARP screw in studs, with a 7/16" top end. comp cams roller rockers (1.6 ratio), springs (986-16), seals(503-16), locks(832-16) retainers(740-16), and timing chain(2120). im going to order a custom grind cam with a lobe seperation of 113, and the following specs from the 31-246-3 camshaft http://www.compcams.com/catalog/146_147.html
i just ordered a paxton s/c SN2000. this is what the guy at comp cams suggested in conjunction with the guy at paxton. (i was going to order a cam with a 110 lobe seperation)

my questions concern valvetrain on this 351W heads on a 302. will i need to get stock 302 pushrods? dont have access to a length checker, and i cant be the first person to do this. also will someone explain what sort of head bolts to get from ARP? i ordered the standard 302 ones apparently cant use those? is that camshaft a good choice/.? any other suggestions? i havent even looked into the distributor, any advice is appreciated there! thanks everyone
mark


[email protected]
[color:green]www.ang67must.com</font color=green>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,070 Posts
the heads are exactly the same size as 302 heads..so the pushrods from a 302 will work ..you need to get special headbolts from ARP..the 302 heads are drilled for 7/16 while the 351's are drilled for 1/2 inch..ARP has the correct bolts..they are stepped in size...but not to cheap..I think they are about 125 bucks for a set.

'59 T-Bird..[color:blue]'70 Mustang Convert</font color=blue>...[color:green]'72 Mach One</font color=green>
http://clubs.hemmings.com/baymustang/t-bird.jpg
The Black Bird At 42,she's the oldest in my Ford stable
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
hmm looking at arp web site stepped washer or stepped bolt, price difference is about 50 dollars, ill look into that. thanks for the help........ other suggestions appreciated , especially regarding the cam! thx
mark

[email protected]
[color:green]www.ang67must.com</font color=green>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,587 Posts
Hi,

Nice combo....gonna run some 10's with that thing?? or just maybe chew on some tranny's and rear ends? *G*

You'll be making more HP than my race car engine does....

Camshaft...nice choice....a little big by my estimation for a huffer but I'll defer to the Vortec guys on that one...

Pushrods...you didn't mention guide plates but I'll assume that...you'll need hardened pushrods...I believe this is the correct length...don't worry about the image on the catalog page, it's screwed up...

Don't forget your oil pan.....*G*

Pat
http://images.freepichosting.com/camachinist/14926-Medium.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
hi pat, thanks for the kind words! i did forget to mention the 3/8 pushrods and guide plaes. what would you recomend for oil pan? im planning on a cobra T oil pan new repop. need to check on that dont know if pickup i have would work since i think its capacity is 7 quarts. absolutly cant wait this get this thing ready. im planning on running a toploader(dont have it yet) any recomendations on clutch? im guessing a scattershield is in order. a stock resurfaced flywheel whould be OK shouldnt it? i heard getting the distributor set up and all the timing is a realy pain in the *** will need help there for certain, but thats the next bridge to cross. thanks pat!
mark

[email protected]
[color:green]www.ang67must.com</font color=green>
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,482 Posts
Mark, I just lost 30 minutes worth of suggestion writing & after getting off the pooter last night I'm beat & can't regenerate it now, but I'll add some on Sat.----comments will be: why not a single moly or S/C specialty ring, watch piston-to-valve clearance, valve to piston eye brow clearance, consider advancing the cam a couple of degrees, oil pickup shouldn't be a problem, check to see if you have proper windage tray bolts, could you get someone with a Desktop Dyno feed-in your engine specs to spit out a recommended cam profile, Bolts with shouldered washers will allow re-use of the bolts should you ever venture into different heads, duraspark ignition is good quality ignition... Gotta crash now.. doin so herreeeeeeezzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz

Tom Kubler, Long-time Mustang Enthusiast & San Antonio Mustang Club Founder
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
10,587 Posts
Yeah, that T pan will work fine....try to keep the pickup about 1/2" from the bottom of the pan.....

With a stick and a huffer, you're going to have a fairly violent combination....I'd go with a 30lb steel flywheel and a scattershield.....Clutch technology has evolved substantially since the last time I crewed a stick shift car so I'll defer to those currently racing that combo...

You may need to upgrade the driveline to 1450 series Spicer U-joints and go to an aftermarket pinion support in the 9", esspecially if you're going to run slicks.

Suspension and traction devices are a separate subject better handled when you get to that point...

FWIW, the gentlemen who got me interested in racing Mustangs at the track once took me for a ride in his 289 stick-shift Pony....Tach stayed at 7500 as he power-shifted through all the gears and I hung on to the roll bar for dear life (race car, no passenger seat..*G*)...and that was in a deserted area of the pits. Car ran 10.80's @ 122...and that was naturally aspirated...and in 1979...

Do you really know what you're in for?? *G*

Pat
http://images.freepichosting.com/camachinist/14926-Medium.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,667 Posts
Are you going to go injected or blow through the carb? The injected route is easier to get configured although it may seem more expensive. In the long run it can turn out not to be nearly the hassle. The blow through carb approach can be a major PITA. Its best to get a carb box instead of just a top cap. Otherwise, you can wind up spending all sorts of time trying to get the carb externally referenced.

How much blower are you going to run? This will have a big impact on your compression ratio. Most of these significantly blown motors start out with like 8:1 static compression ratio because the blower adds 3 or 4 points. If you start out with 10:1 pistons you could be looking at 14:1 effective compression ratio.

Along with the compression situation is the head gasket issue. I've seen a lot of 5.0's blow head gaskets. The basic problem is that we're short a couple of head bolts to start with, LOL. They generally have to go back and put in the lockwires with big NOS shots or blowers. You might as well go ahead and do that now rather than after you blow a head gasket down the road.

Last thing I can think of is that 113 lobe separation seems excessive but I haven't run a blower cam so what do I know.


You can see my 65 fastback at: http://hottarod.stangnet.com/
http://members.aol.com/macstang/Gifs/macstang3.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,188 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
http://www.paxtonauto.com/images/img3.jpg
that is what the set up looks like. boost is between 4-6 plan on using a fel pro head gasket my compression is going to be around 9.3-9.5 according to the builder.... i wasnt so sure about the lobe seperation they recomend 112-114 so comp cams recomended a cam to me, and will custom grind for 113. checked with the guys at paxton and he agreed with the recomendation...... thx
mark

[email protected]
[color:green]www.ang67must.com</font color=green>
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top