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Discussion Starter #1
First off, I know there are a lot of Grant wheel haters on this forum (with good reason). The Grant I have right now is a piece of crap, and I'm getting ready to pull it. Does it pull using a normal steering wheel puller, or do I need to get something special? I seem to recall hearing something about that a few months back when I first looked into the matter.

Secondly, I've been looking into a different Grant wheel - the Collector's Edition. Looks like it would eliminate the horn button popping off because it screws down in place? (correct me if I'm wrong). Wheel looks thicker too, which I like. It's only 14", which means I'll have more leg space. I've got a 15" right now and it's tight, but I feel like a 13" will look too small on the car. Power steering is going in next month, so I won't need the bigger wheel as much anymore.

So, opinions on the Collector's Edition wheel? Creative ideas on how to trash the old one once I manage to get it off? :p
 

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Hello, Kelly. First time I have "lurked" in a long while and saw this. Had that little cold shiver down the spine.

The older style Grant wheels come off in one of two ways.
1. You remove the steering wheel bolts (3) and use a steering wheel puller that has the three threaded bolts to allow you to press the hub off.
2. You might be able to spray some WD40 down into the center splines, sit with your legs under the spokes of the wheel, and tap the center shaft with a hammer.

I don't like (2) because if you don't know what you are doing, you can spread the end of the splined shaft and have to retap the threads to get the center nut to go on and off.

Regarding the newer style Grants, I like them too. BUT.!!!!!!!!!! Beware to get the FORD version of the wheel you want. Some non ford cars honk the horn by grounding the horn circuit to the steering column. FORD DOES NOT DO THIS. With the wrong setup, you won't even get a chance to honk the horn before the circuit shorts out. This is because the center horn assembly has a U shaped spring clip to hold things but it protrudes out the side and touches the inside of the steering wheel and creates a direct short. Unless Grant has corrected this flaw, you need to check with them to make sure this problem is addressed. After that, you will have a very nice looking steering wheel that will be TONS better than the simple Grant setup that has been used since I had my new 70 camaro back in high school in 1970. That old design has been around actually older than that.

I am sorry to be verbose but I work on the classics from time to time, and have run across this problem. I have to tell you that the first time I saw this, it really threw me.

If I can help in any way, just email me at [email protected] and I'll see if I can help.

All my best.

L.M.
 

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I had that one on my FB for about 9 years. It is a really nice wheel and well built. I just changed over when I redid my interior because I didn't have any other wood trim in my car. I really liked it and couldn't understand why many didn't like them.
Stan
 

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Just some guy
67 coupe, 69 Sportsroof, 86 hatchback
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I have a Grant Signature series wheel and like it fine. I always got the impression that nobody really disliked Grant's wheels themselves, just the older stupid horn buttons and some of the adapter kits. I kind of like a 14" wheel, but if you have manual steering the 15" wheels give you a smidge more leverage when parking.
My older cheapo 13" three spoke wheel we found fit fine on a friend's go cart.
 

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I would use a steering wheel puller to be safe. The other way you can mess up the treads for sure.Some people leave the nut on the top of the shaft and tap on it but can still do damage.You may be able to borrow a puller from the auto parts store that has the tool loaner program.
 

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Kelly,

I have an extra deluxe 65-67 wheel that is in pretty good shape if you want it. It would help me get it out of my garage and I happily donate it to your car free of charge. The only thing you would need is the center hub, as mine is for the 67.

Chris
 

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The problem with the Grant wheels is only on the cheaper units. They are pretty much crap.
 

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The rim on that one is finished better, but most of the hub parts are the same cheap junk as the cheaper wheel. The horn button doesn't screw on, those are just decoration.

You can't use a 67 wheel on a 65-66. They aren't actually the same wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
From what I've read from the installation manuals, the Signature series horn button is pressed in, not screwed in, but the plate on the outside (with the 5 screws) helps hold the button in? Not quite clear from the pictures. Didn't mean that the horn button itself would screw in though.

The instructions say that it uses foam spacers as opposed to a spring now as well? No contact plate either. Not sure if that would affect the common problems that Grants have or not.

Also looked up the deluxe wheel - 22GT is right, a 67 wheel won't work on a 66 unfortunately. If it did, I'd take you up on that in a second Chris! Thanks for the offer anyways :)

Edit: Source
 

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I have the same one without the rivet set which is of course the same from installation point of view.
I had exactly the problem LAM700 describes. I just cut off the spring clip to avoid the short circuit and everything was fine. The horn set up is quite good and not such unstable as with the common Grant wheels.
Here some impressions:









 

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I would recommend spending a few extra bucks and getting a Le Carra wheel. No horn button issues!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Great pics GermanDude, they were really helpful in showing how everything goes together. Is that accordian collar deal paintable? I've seen that they come in chrome and black, but my interior is blue.

Maxum96, I thought about that because Lecarra wheels are quite highly rated, but I honestly don't like the look of most of them. Don't like the size of the horn ring as compared to the size of the grip / wheel itself. Plus the fact that there's no Mustang emblem available for the center... just not what I'm looking for. Call me strange for wanting the Grant instead all you want! :p I'm sure I deserve it
 

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I honestly don't like the look of most of them. Don't like the size of the horn ring as compared to the size of the grip / wheel itself. Plus the fact that there's no Mustang emblem available for the center...
Hmmm… First, of course you can put a Mustang emblem in the center, a really nice one, too.
The Grant hub is nowhere near as nice as the billet aluminum hub of the Moto-Lita.


 

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I vote for the Moto-Lita with the pony emblem. If your car doesn't have any wood trim, I would just get the original type steering wheel. Thats what I have and I love it. I did put wrap on it though. I used the perforated one that stretches over and then uses a vinyl string to sort of lace it up. It looks and feels nice. It has also held up for years.
 

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Just to throw my .02 in...i read all the horror stories about the grant wheels and can understand where they are all coming from. If you dont do it just right, it will never function properly or last very long. Just remember to be patient, slow, and methodical, and you will be fine. The hardest part for me was unistalling the POS the previous owner "welded" on...the 3 threads in the hub were all stripped and the horn button was glued on and nothing but sparks...Anyway I just laid out the new kit and sorted through the ambiguous directions and it all went together nicley. No prob with blinkers, hazards, cancelling or horn. One last thought. Make sure you straighten out your wheels before you remove the old wheel. Cheers and good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Unfortunately, I can't afford the Moto Lita. Well, let me rephrase that. I could afford it, but then something else would take a hit and I wouldn't get good upholstery, a better alternator, brighter LED taillights, or some other thing that I'd really rather have :) I'm trying to spend more or less money on things depending on how high they are on my priority list. Only reason that a new steering wheel is suddenly at the top is because I have to pull my old crappy one anyways for R&P install, so might as well replace with a new!
 

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Well, the least expensive way out is a new OE standard wheel, but IIRC, the emblem is missing from your horn ring, too. To do both, you're looking at about $300. For about $380, you can do a complete 65-66 OE deluxe wheel. Oddly, this wheel optional on any 66 with standard interior.

 

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I have the black mahogany signature series wheel on my '66. There's no problem with the horn button. It fits under the screw-down collar and can't go anywhere. The horn circuit works fine. The turn signals work fine. The quality seems quite good. I've had it off and on a couple of times without incident.

 
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