[kuweihang]

Inherited a '65 K code (to my knowledge) all original, and have a couple questions.

1. Since it is all original, to my understanding, what's the best policy for replacing parts and a reputable place to get parts? Only a couple small problems which need to be fixed (heater core, E brake doesn't work, only have ignition keys so replacing key cores, passenger door doesn't latch reliably, windshield cracked)
2. Adding a battery tray so the battery isn't just loose
3. To my understanding there is no clear coat, best practices for waxing after a wash? And ok to use a clay bar? I'd have a pro day the clay sincer I've never done it before.

Think that's it. Not looking to get it into concourse condition, just a good, safe Sunday driver while maintaining it's value.
Thanks!

 

[Mustangerbob1]

Pictures and Location would be great.

Welcome

National Parts Depot (NPD) is great

E brakes rarely worked when new, and I do not trust them anyway. Door and ignition is the same key. Most likely, the rods inside the door need adjustment.

Battery trays are cheap and held in by a couple bolts, easy to replace. Make sure you have the hold down clamp, and a battery that has the ridge for the clamp.

No clear coat. The original paint, if in decent shape, can be cleaned and buffed.

Again, welcome.

Please understand, a true K code "merits" better parts, care, etc.

 

[f18shack]

What a great car to inherit! Hold onto whatever old parts you remove until you can recognize what is K code specific and therefore of more value. Do a bunch of K code related searches here and read up on what you have.

There are a million aftermarket parts available for vintage Mustangs and there is also a wide variety in quality. If that were my car I’d always look first to source “new old stock” (NOS) genuine Ford parts. Expect to pay a premium for whatever you find. From there I’d look for parts advertised as “concours correct”, which is the highest judging standard for originality. I’d also search VMF for past threads on the parts you need and the vendor selling them. See what others have had to say about that part from that vendor.

 

[AZ_Ryan]

As far as the paint goes, I would use a paint thickness gauge before attempting any paint correction. That way you know what you have to work with and how aggressive (or not) to be when you work the finish.

That said you can get excellent results buffing old one stage paint. And yes, Clay bar is a must before attempting any correction. You need to remove all surface contaminates before hand, otherwise you're just grinding it into the paint when you go to polish. Use a quality wax or sealant with UV afterward and your good to go. 👍🏻

 

[Israel]

Welcome,…..pics please!

 

[HoosierBuddy]

Yeah....need to see pictures.

I hear what is being said about NOS above, but this many years on, NOS is kind of hit-or-miss and costs can be exorbitant.

The battery tray for instance is $15 repop or there's a rusty one the seller claims as NOS on ebay for $89....and I'm sort of surprised it's not higher than that. Point being, is your car the right car to pay 6 times as much for a rusty part? I'd need to see pictures to even guess at that.

On the paint though....I would definitely get someone knowledgable to look at it and see if it is in fact the original paint. It would be unlikely this many years in, but if it is...try to preserve it. Cars only have original paint one time.

 

[[email protected]]

Welcome and pics are a must here! Kidding but we like pics!

 

[Roddster]

Slow down and learn about what you have inherited. Today, there is a lot to be said about survivor cars, so watch what you do.

 

[66Camino]

You forgot question #4. Would any of you on the forum like to buy it?

 

[subpar63]

You forgot question #4. Would any of you on the forum like to buy it?

Pick me, pick me 🤚

John

 

[chillininnh]

Until I see some pics call me a skeptic.

 

[f18shack]

Yeah....need to see pictures.

I hear what is being said about NOS above, but this many years on, NOS is kind of hit-or-miss and costs can be exorbitant.The battery tray for instance is $15 repop or there's a rusty one the seller claims as NOS on ebay for $89....and I'm sort of surprised it's not higher than that. Point being, is your car the right car to pay 6 times as much for a rusty part?

Totally true....I need to recalibrate my 1990's vintage brain when it comes to Mustangs. Speaking of rusty stuff, I've got a "NOS" battery tray for sale.... 😂