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I've been autoxing the last few years with a slow:1 box and a quick steer kit works pretty well way better than the slow:1 box and stock arms that I started with
 

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1965 2+2 Vintage Burgundy A-code C4
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Discussion Starter #22
If it was me, I'd keep a rebuilt 19 to one box (Much cheaper than the pricy 16 to one) ad the quick steer.
Now the other side of equation--Is your 19 to 1 beyond rebuilding? Many are. Sorry to throw out another curve.
It didn't seem too bad to me when I was last driving it 20 years ago. Any tips for telling if it is, other than sending it to you?
 

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ok - at the risk of a hijack - i have 3 16:1 boxes - one is really tight and in great shape - one is extremely loose and the shaft is slightly bent where it enters the box - the last one has a spot that has a bit of resistance and the shaft cut off about 6" from the flange (someone cut it out of a ps car, i was going to mill it into a double d to use a coupler) Once I found the "good" one I figurd i'd keep that for my car (next time the motor is out), if you could use either of the other 2 just make me an offer....
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Thanks, will keep that in mind as well. Where are you located?
 

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I would put your money in a 16:1 rebuilt, you know what you have and its gonna be good. Putting a quick steer kit on an unknown 19:1 could just be enough to push it off the cliff and then you are back to square 1 and out the QS kit. I believe the most importang thing to do to a Mustang is good steering and suspension. Almost anything else can be survived - oh yea, and brakes. Too many people put Rack n Pinion in thinking stock steering sucks, but they never got it right. When its right it's a frigg'n BLAST!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I would put your money in a 16:1 rebuilt, you know what you have and its gonna be good. Putting a quick steer kit on an unknown 19:1 could just be enough to push it off the cliff and then you are back to square 1 and out the QS kit. I believe the most importang thing to do to a Mustang is good steering and suspension. Almost anything else can be survived - oh yea, and brakes. Too many people put Rack n Pinion in thinking stock steering sucks, but they never got it right. When its right it's a frigg'n BLAST!
[/QUOTE
I concur, all around, I would be rebuilding the 19:1 box (Chock) before adding the quick steer stuff.
 

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Something in the back of my brain says that if you put the Quick Steer Kit on a car with power steering you're going to have to move the frame bracket for the steering slave cylinder forward....
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Looks like I need to get up with Chock and see what I can sort out.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Something in the back of my brain says that if you put the Quick Steer Kit on a car with power steering you're going to have to move the frame bracket for the steering slave cylinder forward....
I'm manual Bart, unless you were replying to someone else. I'm losing track....
 

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Looks like I need to get up with Chock and see what I can sort out.
Watch out for the crystal balls...

By the way, @dobrostang said exactly what my thoughts were but I probably didn't relay it that way. Yes 19:1 is good enough with the quick steer added but without knowing everything is good, spend the extra few, get the 16:1 and if it's not "good" enough, you could add the quick steer.

I'm pretty sure this would take you WAY beyond your abilities, but it's just speculation on my part...:LOL:

Allen
 

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16:1 Chockostang rebuilt box with quick steering arms under 3 1/4 turn lock to lock on the lift seems to be 3 turns on the ground. Could be the fat tires hitting the "frame". And Chockostang rebuilt power steering with a mid 80"s F150 pulley on the pump. Oh the humanity! Still have to go hand over hand when spinning out on the course. Awesome on the street though! Going to have to do the R&P thing eventually if I continue the cars current usage.

Almost anything new, regardless of how pathetic, is less than 3 turns lock to lock.
 

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Something in the back of my brain says that if you put the Quick Steer Kit on a car with power steering you're going to have to move the frame bracket for the steering slave cylinder forward....
Not in my case even with FPA headers. If doing that would give my an advantage I am interested.
 

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Something in the back of my brain says that if you put the Quick Steer Kit on a car with power steering you're going to have to move the frame bracket for the steering slave cylinder forward....
I've had the "quick steer" arms on my '66 with P/S since 1981 or so. Works fine. Probably a few thousand track miles and 40K+ street miles.

ex-Global West GM
1991-1995
 
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It didn't seem too bad to me when I was last driving it 20 years ago. Any tips for telling if it is, other than sending it to you?
Do do it right, the box has to be out of the car. Using a 1" pound torque wrench, see if it will setup at 10" pounds at center---With no sector resistance against the case. If the sector hits case before you get the set, It is badly worn.
 

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Thanks, that's exactly what I was digging for. Now I need to pull my box and get it to Chock and then get with John for some quick steer roller parts. I have Granada spindles and it "seems" it quickened it up a tad from before. I think with the quick steer kit I'll be satisfied.
I'm thinking I come in around 4 1/2 turns with granada spindles and 19:1 without quicksteer on my 66. I'm going to drive it awhile and evaluate it before going the quicksteer route. 225 tires all around
 

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Sure like to have the magic answers for all folks/applications/and various pieces. The only problem why I can't answer all questions is the batteries ran out on my Crystal Balls (got 2, ). Can't find any cotton picking batteries anywhere that will repower my balls. They are old by the way!
When they get old like that, you just can't find batteries any more. However, you might be surprised at how well they can be brought back to life. The only way is to have the right person recharge them with a good polish job. Its getting harder to find those people willing to deal with the older models and do the job justice, but they are still out there. You may have to interview several candidates OR you may just have to break down and pay a professional ;o)

...and you thought you were getting close to the line...
 

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When they get old like that, you just can't find batteries any more. However, you might be surprised at how well they can be brought back to life. The only way is to have the right person recharge them with a good polish job. Its getting harder to find those people willing to deal with the older models and do the job justice, but they are still out there. You may have to interview several candidates OR you may just have to break down and pay a professional ;o)

...and you thought you were getting close to the line...
The verbiage is genuine, I like it, Thank You Sir.
Like-Like- Like!!!!!!!
We all enjoy play on words.
 

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I went out and looked to see exactly what steering box I have and as suspected, its the HCC AT box. So, now I'm faced with a decision. Do I send this box to Chock to rebuild and add a roller Shelby quick steer kit to it OR do I need to find a 16:1 box and put the quick steer kit on it? I'm not following Patrick, Allen and Mark down the track rabbit hole (at least not now), but I live in the NC foothills and I DO love to hit the twisties every chance I get.

Will it be quick enough with the slow box or do I need to start looking for the quicker ratio????
If you have the funding that I assume you if you plan on going down the "rabbit hole" get a rebuilt 16:1 box from Dan when available, that's what I did as I had the slowest 19:1 box with add on power steering. Even with the 16:1 box and quick steering arms that I have it's almost the same turns lock to lock as my 2002 F150 and marginal on the autocross course.
 
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