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Discussion Starter #1
What is the best method to prepare a clean body panel for paint, but you have to drive the car a while before getting it painted?
Can I just scuff with a red pad and use krylon sandable primer? then when ready to paint just wet sand and shoot?

I want to start preping the body now for painting this winter but still need to utilize the car until about Nov. then strip it down to near nothing and take it into the body shop in Dec. I can save about 2K by preping the car myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've heard discussion here about the primer sealer but it seems quite expensive and you also need paint equipment to use it. I know you can get primer sealer in spray cans but is that what I want to use? is it sandable or do they wet sand after that?
 

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PPG DP-40LF is not extremely expensive. About $50 a quart (plenty to do a car) plus the activator which is about another 20 or so.

The good thing is you can use an inexpensive gun to shoot it on. It is sandable/wetsandable.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I knew I'd need a compressor someday.... ::

But I don't wan't to primer it all at once. I need the ability to do a panel per weekend and possible drive it durring the week. I know, I know,... I'm looking for the easy out but I can only work within my constraints.

So the vote is DON'T use spray can primer or primer sealer.

Stupid question, but why? is it that bad? does it mess up the final paint? ::
 

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spray primer is much less likely to be compatible with a final paint surface than an epoxy primer. I am not saying it will fail with 100% certainty, but you get much better protection and coverage with an epoxy primer.

PPG guarantees it to be compatible with all of their urethane basecoats,also.

I used some spray primer when I was working a small area or a chip to the metal, because it was better than raw steel in 90% humidity, but I covered it with dp40 before painting.
 

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Another issue with spray can paints is the millage ( paint thickness) which is often not sufficent to afford decent coverage. Also, most are absorbent of the moisture in the air, which can lead to surface rust under the primer you cannot see. This can lead to other problems later. I used SW brand neutral epoxy primer. It's sandable, and can be sprayed on panel by panel as you need it
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, so I decided to go with the PPG 40.

What is the recommended mixing ration w/activator?
what viscosity should it have?
What air pressure(in/lb) should it be shot with?

The final paint will be PPG color 5A 2287 or light pewter.
 

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IIRC, it is 1.5 to 1 40 to activator. Get the activator that doesn't have to set 20 mins before spraying (402 , i think).

the mixing instructions are on the can. Get the activator in the pint bottles, if you are going to spray in stages.

It is fairly heavy, about like cold chocolate milk (if chocolate milk were green-gray). I spray with a 1.4 HVLP gun tip in a cheapo gun (Home Depot/Harbor Freight) Campbell Hausfield Made in Taiwan Gun.
 
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Actually the mixing ration is 1:1 on the DP line of primers from PPG. Depending on what color you want to paint the car the primers are offered in different colors DP 90 black, DP 40 grey green, DP 74 red, DP 48 is white. You can also mix this primer as a sealer in a ratio of 1:.5:1 being DP, reducer, and hardener. It is a good product and you can go over bare metal as long as you have at least a 2 mil thickness after it is sanded to still have the metal protection properties underneath the paint.
 
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