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Discussion Starter #1
I am rebuilding classic 289 V8 from 67', one of e-shop in US suggest to use following parts :
Piston and Ring Kit (H273CP30+2M139)
Main and Rod bearings by KING CR804SI10 and MB529SI10
ELGIN Valves: ELGE-1669B and ELGI-1670B
MEL-MTF-1 Camshaft + bearing SH510S (Clevite)

030 Pistons and 010 bearing oversize I got from my engine workshop. I am just not sure about above producers, since that set looks not expensive, what I am happy for :) , after I got info about service fee for engine rebuild.
I dont want to increase performance, just OEM replacement for weekend drives.
Also should I exchange oil pomp ? My was working but looks like OEM.
Same question with lifters, they sat tightly and do not have any cracks, I have check manual but there is specific procedure to measure how much oil it provides ?
 

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Nothing wrong with Sealed Power IMO. When I did mine I replaced the cam, lifters, rockers, oil pump, timing set. No reason to cheap out when you tear the motor down. I wanted the motor to last so I replaced more than I re-used.
 

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Since you're going to be into the engine, replacing the lifters and oil pump are a good idea. It's easier to do it the first time than having to do it with the engine in the car. Be sure to check the skirts on the pistons for cracks. I've had 2 289s (1967) that had at least one piston cracked.
 

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a contrary opinion ,, oil pumps wear very little if the engine was in any kind of good running condition before the rebuild.
take it apart and inspect it .It is a good idea to upgrade to an ARP drive shaft however.
and unless you set the engine up VERY loose chances are you don't need a HV pump
I've been warned about posting it because of copyrite .but google Tom Monroe how to rebuild your Small Block Ford for a free PDF
 

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I am rebuilding classic 289 V8 from 67', one of e-shop in US suggest to use following parts :
Piston and Ring Kit (H273CP30+2M139)
Main and Rod bearings by KING CR804SI10 and MB529SI10
ELGIN Valves: ELGE-1669B and ELGI-1670B
MEL-MTF-1 Camshaft + bearing SH510S (Clevite)

030 Pistons and 010 bearing oversize I got from my engine workshop. I am just not sure about above producers, since that set looks not expensive, what I am happy for :) , after I got info about service fee for engine rebuild.
I dont want to increase performance, just OEM replacement for weekend drives.
Also should I exchange oil pomp ? My was working but looks like OEM.
Same question with lifters, they sat tightly and do not have any cracks, I have check manual but there is specific procedure to measure how much oil it provides ?
I would pick the Silv-O-Lite 3101HC-030 over the H273CP30 as it's closer to an "A" code piston than the latter, although either one is decent. You'll get a tad higher compression with the 3101HC. The Hastings rings are okay but make sure your machinist knows to finish the bores for a plasma-moly top ring. He should also have the pistons in hand BEFORE the final hone is done. Bearings? Always been a fan of tri-metal bearings. Yes, they aren't very forgiving of foreign material in the oil or poorly machined journals but they can sure take a beating. I would DEFINITELY add ARP connecting rod bolts to your list since you'll need to have the rods resized anyway.

Valves. Since you have a '67 you have rail-type rocker arms, unless you plan on having the heads machined for screw-in studs.... Since you listed valves I'm assuming you will have the seats ground so just have them ground so I'd have the intake seats ground to 1.78" (302 size) and pick Manley stainless (chrome stem and hardened tip) valves. Your camshaft is way big, IMHO, for stock 289 heads and exhaust and my recommendation would be Howards 212001-14. It's operating range is 600-4,800 rpm with strong vacuum (throttle response) and good fuel economy. Yes, you want to replace the lifters WHENEVER you replace the camshaft. A decent set of OEM-type lifters, Sealed Power will be fine. To finish the valvetrain I'd use a Cloyes timing set.

Oil pump you want a Melling M68 standard volume/standard pressure unit with a new pump pick-up. I'd add an ARP or Ford Racing oil pump driveshaft. Just my suggestions, of course.
 

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I ran the 448/472 cam in my old 289 with the stock valves and springs with rail rockers . but I probably gave up e few RPM on the top end by not replacing the springs
 

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Discussion Starter #8
a contrary opinion ,, oil pumps wear very little if the engine was in any kind of good running condition before the rebuild.
take it apart and inspect it .It is a good idea to upgrade to an ARP drive shaft however.
and unless you set the engine up VERY loose chances are you don't need a HV pump
I've been warned about posting it because of copyrite .but google Tom Monroe how to rebuild your Small Block Ford for a free PDF
I have this book :) and Ford workshop manual. In one of them there is quite detailed procedure how to check a pump. This I can do by myself.
I have also read that lifter have to be change if new camshaft will be put and camshaft need to be put as new if I have not marked lifter order. Also guys which rebuild engine found out some cracks on camshaft and according them it is better to change it. I'm gonna to measure it, partially to check how it looks like after so many years.
Another topics are springs. They have been checked and they have [email protected]" and [email protected]"
I have found somewhere that it should be more then [email protected]" and [email protected],25, so I am not sure if I need to change it or not ..
Also valve arms need to be checked.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Valves. Since you have a '67 you have rail-type rocker arms, unless you plan on having the heads machined for screw-in studs.... Since you listed valves I'm assuming you will have the seats ground so just have them ground so I'd have the intake seats ground to 1.78" (302 size) and pick Manley stainless (chrome stem and hardened tip) valves. Your camshaft is way big, IMHO, for stock 289 heads and exhaust and my recommendation would be Howards 212001-14. It's operating range is 600-4,800 rpm with strong vacuum (throttle response) and good fuel economy. Yes, you want to replace the lifters WHENEVER you replace the camshaft. A decent set of OEM-type lifters, Sealed Power will be fine. To finish the valvetrain I'd use a Cloyes timing set.
I will check this can, but valves are quite expensive.


I have sum up and it not looks good, I think in need almost all valvetrain:

738387


738388


Those arms are the worst, but this surface is curved :confused:. One of this teaches spring retainer.

This is also the worst camshaft part, I am not sure if I can polish it.

738389


I have measured it and lift is between 0.225 -0.229, it is out of max for this engine (0.225 for intake and 0.232 for exhaust) and near to the wear limit. Lifters look really good but it have to be change with camshaft.
Springs are fine according one book and close to the limit according the other one.
Also if I will need to change all valvetrain + $400 per head for workshop costs (valves installation, springs, etc) I am thinking if it is not better to go with new heads :unsure:.
Are those new much worst then old ones with new parts ?
 

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I will check this can, but valves are quite expensive.


I have sum up and it not looks good, I think in need almost all valvetrain:

View attachment 738387

View attachment 738388

Those arms are the worst, but this surface is curved :confused:. One of this teaches spring retainer.

This is also the worst camshaft part, I am not sure if I can polish it.

View attachment 738389

I have measured it and lift is between 0.225 -0.229, it is out of max for this engine (0.225 for intake and 0.232 for exhaust) and near to the wear limit. Lifters look really good but it have to be change with camshaft.
Springs are fine according one book and close to the limit according the other one.
Also if I will need to change all valvetrain + $400 per head for workshop costs (valves installation, springs, etc) I am thinking if it is not better to go with new heads :unsure:.
Are those new much worst then old ones with new parts ?
I ran into a similar dilema. I put a set of AFR165 heads on for around $1500 IIRC. There is quite an airflow benefit when you upgrade to more modern aluminum heads not to mention the weight savings from aluminum heads and intake manifold.
 

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here is where wanting to rebuild the old 289 starts to cost more than stuffing the engine bay with a GT40P
That same 4 bills would get you a complete 5.0 roller and make more power
For me the heads were an afterthought but you are correct. For a tad more than I paid for the heads, block work, and rotating assembly I could have put a GT40P and had more power. What do they say about hindsight:rolleyes:
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Coming back to idea of reuse my heads ..
How to check if rail arms are ok or not ? If rails are ok, but is it any minimal thickness ? Ford Service manual wrote only about "grooved radius", but mine are not grooved, but of course radius is curved.
If I will need to replace them can I use roler tip rail arms ? If so what I need to take in account except: bolt 3/8 and 1.6 ratio ?
Can I find something cheaper / better then such ones:

I am also looking for all cam set (camshaft, lifters, springs, etc).
Is it worth to buy:

I chatted with Summit support and they also found alternative parts form diff producers (but camshaft with lifter are from one) and I got ca $300, so is it better to spend more on one set or try to collect diff items ?
 

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I am rebuilding classic 289 V8 from 67', one of e-shop in US suggest to use following parts :
Piston and Ring Kit (H273CP30+2M139)
Main and Rod bearings by KING CR804SI10 and MB529SI10
ELGIN Valves: ELGE-1669B and ELGI-1670B
MEL-MTF-1 Camshaft + bearing SH510S (Clevite)

030 Pistons and 010 bearing oversize I got from my engine workshop. I am just not sure about above producers, since that set looks not expensive, what I am happy for :) , after I got info about service fee for engine rebuild.
I dont want to increase performance, just OEM replacement for weekend drives.
Also should I exchange oil pomp ? My was working but looks like OEM.
Same question with lifters, they sat tightly and do not have any cracks, I have check manual but there is specific procedure to measure how much oil it provides ?
But wouldn't it be more fun to bump up the performance just a little, with flattop Hypertherecticut Sealed Power pistons, with two valve relief and port match the heads while you're working on them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
But wouldn't it be more fun to bump up the performance just a little, with flattop Hypertherecticut Sealed Power pistons, with two valve relief and port match the heads while you're working on them.
what product do you exactly mean ?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Few more concerns ..
Does anybody knows top end products from Speedmaster ?
like:
and more:

Price looks very attractive ($891 for whole set), but I can not find any option about it. Any risk ?

I have also found renewed GT40P heads, but as I read I need to change exhaust manifold or I can just modified it ? Is it any other requirements to put it stock 289 ?
 

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Sherif, the Speedmaster kit looks decent, the shop I retired from sold lots of them, generally, folks were happy. However, if you put those on a 289 and youhave the H273CP pistons with 8 cc worth of valve notch, you'll only have 8.53 to 1 compression. If you instead had 3101 HC pistons with 4 cc notches, you'd have 8.93, and if you had the 4 cc pistons AND the iron heads, you could have 9.61 to 1. If it were me, I would redo the iron heads you have, using 351W or larger valves.


If you want to use the GTP heads, you'll have to do a little grinding for spark plug clearance.
And if you are going to run iron exhaust manifolds, you should forget about aftermarket aluminum heads. Those fancy new heads will do absolutely NOTHING for you if you are choking your engine with cast iron exhausts. LSG
 
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