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Discussion Starter #1
I think I have everything now to replace the leaf springs on my 65 vert:


Floor jacks.......check
Jack stands......check
Leaf springs.....check
New shackles...check
New U bolts.....check
New shocks......check
PB Blaster........check
Tungsten carbide recip blades....check
BFH.................check
Bolts to make screw press......check
One large can of swear words.....check

I have read through a bunch of threads on this and I didn't see if most people put all four corners of the car on jack stands or just jack up the back. What's the preference?
 

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whiskey is great when you do run out of beer because of the frustration causing extra breaks.

maybe that's why i never get through a project and wake up with a headache and bruised hands...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
whiskey is great when you do run out of beer because of the frustration causing extra breaks.

maybe that's why i never get through a project and wake up with a headache and bruised hands...
In the house or on the shop floor? :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
So....no thoughts on jacking up the front and back or just the back?
 

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Just jack up the back. You will need 4 jack stands.
Jack up by the pumpkin as high as you can, the put stands under the rear subframe. Then lower pumpkin till it onload and place jack stands under the rear. This way you can peel the springs out one at a time and bolt the new one in without the rear moving and with the car supported properly.

 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks for the help Nick. I've got plenty of jack stands so I should be good to go. Now we'll see how long it takes the new project enthusiasm to wear off once I start trying to remove 46 year old bolts.
 

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Thanks for the help Nick. I've got plenty of jack stands so I should be good to go. Now we'll see how long it takes the new project enthusiasm to wear off once I start trying to remove 46 year old bolts.
I bet they come right out/off. These things were just built better back then. Ive done about everything you can do to my 67, and havnt had any trouble with nut or bolts!!! Its kinda weird how a nut or bolt has been torqued down for 45+ years will come right off like it was just put there.:thumbsup:
 

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I bet they come right out/off. These things were just built better back then. Ive done about everything you can do to my 67, and havnt had any trouble with nut or bolts!!! Its kinda weird how a nut or bolt has been torqued down for 45+ years will come right off like it was just put there.:thumbsup:
The problem isn't the nut. It is the inner sleeve on the bushing rusting to the bolt making it impossible for the bolt to be pulled out so that the bolt then needs to be cut between the leaf and the subframe.
 

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I just replaced the leaf springs on my '65 last month. I had to stop in the middle of the first one to go buy a Sawzall.
 

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I just replaced the leaf springs on my '65 last month. I had to stop in the middle of the first one to go buy a Sawzall.
Hell, you always wanted a Sawzall, I bet that's just the excuse you told the old lady. LOL
 

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I just changed mine. One side came out smooth, first side of course. The second need persuasion from a 5" thin cut. A lot faster than burning up blades on a sawzall.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I've got cut off wheels and a sawzall with tungsten carbide blades. I'm going to expect the worst and hopefully I'll be pleasantly surprised (doubtful) when they come out without a problem. I thought this little press set up that Daves72 posted here looks pretty slick. http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/vintage-mustang-forum/554854-leaf-springs-re-arc-replace-2.html

I've got the stuff to try that as well. The first thing I need to do is find the time to start, get the undercoating off the bolts and start soaking everything with PB Blaster.
 
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