[Patches]

When I started my car a lifter was incredibly loud. I was just going a short trip so I thought it would quiet down after it warmed up. Stayed loud all the way there and back. Next day, it was quiet again.

When I got my 65 it idled like it had a some kind of cam in it. Bwadda bwadda bwadda
So I checked the lift with a dial indicator and it was .380, stock! Huh, weird.
So I went to adjust the valves, engine running. All the rockers were cranked down at least 3 to 4 turns past where the lifters quieted down.
I backed them way off and it began to idle better. However some lifters would never really quiet down until I cranked them down until it would idle badly. So I drive it with midly noisy lifters, some, not all. Otherwise the motor is good, compression, oil pressure ect. It had a tag on it that said remanufactured, i think it probably was at some point.

So, my question is, am I going to be buying some new parts soon? I know lifters are cheap, but will I have to have a cam as well?
Could it be something else? That one lifter going nuts really freaked me out, I thought it had collapsed, but then it worked again.
I have a tight budget, but this needs to get sorted out, looking for opinions.

 

[JDraper]

If the lifters were cranked in that far, it's possible they were damaged. I'd toss a set of new lifters at it. You can get a new set of stock lifters for $48 from Summit Racing.

We had a similar issue with our motor after rebuild. I had one lifter that just kept getting stuck in the block and rattling. Turned out that the block cleaning didn't fully strip all the residue off that was baked into the lifter bore, and the new lifter was hanging. Cleaned out the bore and all has been good :thumbup:

 

[65fast]

Do you know if it is a mechanical or hydraulic cam?

It sounds like you think it might be a mechanical cam since you adjusted the lifters with the engine running. Adjusting the lifters this way is only done with a mechanical cam. I would try adjusting all of them with the motor off and see what you end up with.

Also measuring lift with a dial indicator at the rocker arm won't get you an accurate measurement of cam lift.

Good luck

 

[Patches]

The lifters are hydraulic.
There was a recent thread on this subject. I was always taught the old school, messy way. Losen until clacking then tighten until quiet plus 1/2 turn.
I was always told to use feeler gauge only on mechanical.

I measured the lift at the top of the push rod with the motor off, rocker arm off. Described in the shop manual page 8-7, except I didn't use special tool 6565-AB.

I think I may just spring for the lifters and check the cam lobes with a dial indicator on the noisy lifters. If they are worn it should show up.
They were so overtightened I think something may be arwy.

 

[JDraper]

There are two ways to adjust the hydraulic lifters. With the motor running and a half turn past the noise stopping, or with the motor off, making sure each piston is at tdc on the compression stroke and tightening the stud nuts for that cylinder until the play is out of the pushrods (spin it with your fingers as it's tightened) and then go 1/2 turn.

To adjust a solid lifter setup, the engine must be off and each valve adjusted with a feeler gauge when each cylinder is also at tdc on the compression stroke. You also have to check the specs to see if they are for a hot or cold motor.

With either method, you can adjust about 4 valves at one time by knowing which valves are fully shut at what point in the engine cycle. Most tech manuals will have that info.