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Talking to me? If so, it's all hooked up, but i'm still working on this damn power steering hose, so I haven't tried it yet. It's proving to be..... a giant pain.
 

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Re: Talking to me?

Yep.
Just checking in to see how things were progressing, or not. P/S hose huh? Just a shot in the dark, but have you tried a hydraulic hose shop? They have all sorts of angled fittings and hoses.
When you get a chance, I would like to get some specifics on what you finally came up with on brackets CA lengths and obvoiusly P/S hoses :)
If you want just e-mail me and we can take this off-line.
Thanks
 

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Let's keep it here in case anyone is still doing this. As I said, I also have a set of the tie-rod adapters if anyone is going the heim route.

Yup, every hydraulic shop I've phoned can't help me. They can ALMOST help me. If you have a newer pump (89+), it uses a captured o-ring (At the base of the threads), 16mm. So what I was going to do is, they ordered me a 16mm to 6an (3/8 JIC) and we were gonig to screw that in, and then just cut the GM power steering hose, and mate a new hose onto it, that went to 3/8 JIC.

Of course, when I got the 16mm, I founmd out that MY pump, is 5/8 - 18 Captured o-ring. They couldn't find a fitting. I emailed Edelbrock about the russel 5/8 - 18 power steering fitting to find ou twhere the o-ring is, but they never got back to me. So what I might do, as a shot in the dark, is just order a 87 5.0 Power steering hose from rockauto, and hope to god my hyudraulic shop can splice into the original hose and mate them. Although, I've probably spent $100+ on hoses at least, so you can all learn from my mistakes.. haha
 

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Thanks for keeping us up to date.
Whenever you get the bugs worked out, a bill of materials list, and lessons learned would be awsome. You guys are doing a great service to us folks that would really like to have a rack system, but just cannot let go of the cash to buy a kit. Thank you.
Let us know how this baby drives.
 

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Frankly, my main concerns at this point, are the integrity of the welds (115v welder, 1/4" steel), the aluminum tie rod sleeves I bought (I swear, a lot of kits used to include them!), and the quality, or l ack thereof, on the heim joints (Speedway motors.. Didn't really explain anything... I picked what I thought were good ones, but who knows.. I think the bolts will prevent a complete separation until I figure everything out though).
 

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I'm not a professional welder, but, if you feel you need a full penetration weld (not a bad idea) grind some of the plate. If you are welding two pieces at a 90 degree angle, grind the inside of the angle leaving the outside corner. You may have to make several passes to build the weld up but it works.
Professional welders feel free to chime in and correct any mis information I may be blurting out.
 

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Well there were large gaps when the 1/4" was setup beside each other, so it shouuld be good. i would have like to cut through it to check, but never got around to it. I might need to redo some angles and what not anywyas though, so..
 

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After looking at this thread several times, I'm wondering if it will clear a big block (428) and FPA headers, 4 speed toploader? I have done the shelby drop and am in the process of notching my shock towers. 7 qt oil pan.
No front suspension or motor/trans installed.
Yikes!
 

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Well it says they have a banjo that will fit, but it says 'field attachable', so i'm not quite sure what kind of hose works. I might just be farther ahead to buy a ford hose, and splice em.. Crossing my fingers they are both the same ID (GM hose and Ford hose)
 

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Just popping my head in on this discussion....

I applaud those of you taking on this challenge of engineering a rack and pinion to fit these old ponies. It is not for the faint of heart!

I have taken some time to read/skim over this entire thread and it looks like you guys have the majority of things taken care of. Just FYI, my Taurus setup is and has been functioning fine these past few years. I have recently been wanting to tinker with adjusting bumpsteer to an optimal position with my setup. To aid with this, I created a 2D moveable sketch in Solidworks. Here are the details and a screen shot to follow...

My Mustang has the following modifications from stock that will affect bumpsteer:
- 1" Shelby drop
- Granada spindles
- Taurus rack and pinion
- 1" Lowering springs

Here is a screen shot of my setup and measurements at normal ride height:
http://ciabattari.boldlygoingnowhere.org/pictures/VMF/bumpsteer_mod_flat.JPG

EDIT: Here is a link to the full size picture that you can actually read the dimensions.
 

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That's a good plan. I learned Pro/E last semester (I mean, not down pat, but enough to actually make stuff), but I never learned how to do anything that I can 'adjust' and see the results.. Maybe I should get on that. Might also tell me if my rack is going to explode.. haha

(Love the car. What kit is that specifically? Any issues?)
 

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Hey Johnny,
I was thinking about all your hose fitting issues, and was wondering, wouldn't it be easier to cut the fittings off the PS reservoir, and just weld on the ones that fit the hoses? Maybe I'm missing something, but it seems like you could weld on the fittings to the reservoir a lot easier. Just a thought.
 

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Pro E. ugh. I did that one too. I prefer Solidworks over Pro E any day of the week. Solidworks interface is much easier for me to navigate around in.

If you want, you can give me your suspension measurements and I can whip one of these up for you so you can get an idea of what is going to happen.

I would need the following measurements with the car at normal ride height (or simulated normal ride height depending on what state your Mustang is in :p ):
- Upper control arm, UCA, length
- UCA frame pivot point height (relative to ground, RTG, is fine as long as you do the same with the other measurements)
- Upper ball joint height, RTG
- Lower control arm, LCA, length
- LCA frame pivot point height RTG
- Lower ball joint height, RTG
- Upper ball joint to lower ball joint distance (verification dimension)
- Horizontal distance from UCA pivot to LCA pivot
- Horizontal distance from UCA pivot to inner tie rod pivot
- Tie rod length
- This one is sometimes tricky... I need to know how far horizontal and how far vertical your outer tie rod is relative to your lower ball joint (or RTG for the vertical position). The vertical portion is usually adjustable to change bumpsteer, and small increments make large differences in bumpsteer in this area.

That should do the trick. :p Try and be as accurate as possible with your measurements (1/4" is good for most, 1/8" would be better). And try to find the center pivot of the ball joints when making your measurements.

Hopefully I can be of some help.
 

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Thanks for the replies!

zforce: yes, welding some fittings in, would work. I wanted to avoid that.. That's my next step, but I think having this GM hose, and now the Ford hose is on it's way (What I should have done in the first place), and having a shop join them will be the best bet.

daveoxide: yeah, pro/e isn't very friendly at all. I hear it's quite powerful though.

I will get those measurements to you in a couple weeks hopefully.. It's kind of limbo at the moment, and I'm back to Toronto for school again on monday. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #337
JohnnyK said:
Thanks for the replies! but I think having this GM hose, and now the Ford hose is on it's way

Be sure and temporarily install that hose before having the fitting crimped in, this needs to be done to insure that the fitting is positioned properly because that hose will not twist any appreciable amount and the fitting is usually VERY difficult to turn once it is crimped on. I just held mine up to the pump and did an "eyeball" alignment then made a line-up mark on both the fitting and the hose, big mistake! The fitting was only off by a couple of degrees but I could not get the hose to twist enough to line up with the pump fitting and it was crimped on too tight to turn the fitting in the hose, nothing else to do but cut the fitting out and re-crimp it.
 

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Oh seriously? Thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to do that.. But I'm still going to have to do what you did and make a line for alignment.. Hope I nail it!
 

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So is anyone doing this still? If I get some free time I can make up the parts I made in pro/e.. The problem is, as 2late has stated, it's going to be different for everyones cars, so not sure if it's worth it?
 
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