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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

The other day it was kind of hot outside and I got stuck idling in traffic for a long time. Water temp got up there - I only have the stock '66 gauge and it was at the right side of the P vs. straight down the middle normally. It did cool right down once I was back on the freeway. The coolant is 2 years old so I'm going to change that and the thermostat. But I've also starting reading about the various fan set ups people use. I see that some folks use a 7-blade Granada fan, and some use other fans with a clutch. If I go with a clutch fan set-up, I'd want it to be a Ford set up so it looks somewhat like it belongs there, i.e. no Flexlite or electric fans. I have a standard 5-blade fan with the 2-1/4" deep shroud which is about 18" wide.

I've found a Granada fan on eBay, # D9PE-8600-AA, NOS Motorcraft for just $60. It's 17-1/2" wide so it should fit.
See https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-OEM-Ford-Motorcraft-YA-159-7-blade-17-5-Cooling-Fan-Blade-D9PE-8600-AA/182617153059?hash=item2a84d49e23:g:HF8AAOSw-89ZPfN1 and attached photo.

A clutch fan set up sounds like it would cool better at idle and be quieter at higher RPM's. So I kinda like that idea but don't know which fan, which clutch to use. Does anyone have specific Ford part numbers they could recommend that would fit that shroud? Would I need a different fan spacer? With the 5-blade fan there's about 3/4" to 1" of clearance with the radiator now.

Thanks!
Bill
 

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With the fan clutch you need the clutch AND the matching fan, which has a larger center hole and bolts to the clutch unit. IIRC, the correct clutch is the Hayden 2717 and the typical fan a Flex-a-lite 6717... but don't quote me just yet.

While the clutch fan will help with parasitic loss and noise at higher rpms, I'm not sure it will help with your "stopped in traffic" heating issue. The most common cause of heating when stopped is lack of adequate spark advance. Newer fuels burn slower and if you've installed an aftermarket carb the chances are it's a bit lean, too. That also makes it burn slower so excess heat ends up in the exhaust port instead of being turned into mechanical motion and the coolant has to take up the slack. Consider running as much timing at idle as the motor will tolerate, including switching your vacuum advance signal to full manifold vacuum. If you have air conditioning, note that Ford equipped factory A/C models with a 3-core radiator with an 11 fin per inch count, and a Hot Idle Compensator mounted in the Autolite carburetor. This unit is controlled by a bi-metal spring and would open a "controlled vacuum leak" to raise the idle speed slightly to move more air and coolant. If you no longer have one, you might want to consider adding a 12v throttle "kicker" solenoid, triggered by the A/C compressor clutch, to raise the idle when the A/C is cycling.
 

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Should work. I'm using a late 60's/early 70's GM 18" fan with a 75 Impala thermostatic clutch. I bought the fan off CL. I have the fan clutch with in a 1/2" of the radiator. The fan blades are less then ideal 1.5" or so from the core and no fan shroud, which it really should. The bottom line it cools great. Even idling it's fine. It's also very quiet

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Be sure to choose a clutch with a thermostatic spring. And a shroud will improve the efficiency of your fan. The fan should be half in, and half out, of the shroud's depth.
I have one car with and one without AC, and another AC car that is disassembled but all three have the original 7-blade C6OE - G fan and thermostatic clutch. The running ones are used with a shroud on a 3 row brass radiator, a 180 degree thermostat and 60% silicate-free coolant, full manifold vacuum and 36 degrees total timing.
 

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I'm using a Hayden 2710 and a fan off a GM truck I had lying around. The key is to make sure you get a fan that fits in the shroud and as others have noted, it needs to be about half in. Hayden has nice dimensional drawings on their catalog, so you can see where everything will fall. If you need to adjust the position, you can do as huskinhano did inhis pic and put a spacer behind the clutch flange.

https://www.smpbuyersguide.com/hayden/data/hay17tcp/011/html/export/2017 Illustrated Guide - Temperature Control Products.pdf

With the fan clutch you need the clutch AND the matching fan, which has a larger center hole and bolts to the clutch unit. IIRC, the correct clutch is the Hayden 2717 and the typical fan a Flex-a-lite 6717... but don't quote me just yet.
Hayden shows 2717 as a reverse rotation clutch. I think your fan recommendation is spot on though. Another option would be a unit from Derale, they make them in 17" through 20".

https://derale.com/product-footer/belt-driven-fans/fan-clutch-fans/standard-rotation
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thank you all for your replies...and advice!.

The most common cause of heating when stopped is lack of adequate spark advance. Newer fuels burn slower and if you've installed an aftermarket carb the chances are it's a bit lean, too. That also makes it burn slower so excess heat ends up in the exhaust port instead of being turned into mechanical motion and the coolant has to take up the slack. Consider running as much timing at idle as the motor will tolerate, including switching your vacuum advance signal to full manifold vacuum. If you have air conditioning,...
Thanks, Bart. I'm running ethanol free gas, and an Edelbrock 1403 carb. From the factory, the carb is actually running rich (and getting bad mileage) so I just recently changed metering rods to 1 step leaner. It idles better and accelerates smoother. Initial timing is 10 BTDC. I'll bump up the advance and continue tuning the carb, and see how those changes work.

I don't have A/C, and already have a 3-row radiator with shroud. The current 5-blade fan sits right where it should, half in/half out.

I have one car with and one without AC, and another AC car that is disassembled but all three have the original 7-blade C6OE - G fan and thermostatic clutch.
Perfect! Thanks for the part number for the fan. But man, those guys are not cheap! $250 and up on eBay! Apparently, no one makes repro version. All the repros, like the Derale that Hemikiller recommended, are the 6-blade version and not the 7-blade. I did find repro's for the 390 7-blade fan but they're crazy expensive.

Hayden has nice dimensional drawings on their catalog, so you can see where everything will fall. If you need to adjust the position, you can do as huskinhano did in his pic and put a spacer behind the clutch flange..... Another option would be a unit from Derale, they make them in 17" through 20".
Great info in those Hayden dimension drawings! That'll be a big help. But ya, I only see 6-blade fans on the Derale website.


So I'll try the timing and vacuum porting things that Bart mentioned, and will start searching for a 7-blade fan, maybe one that needs some restoring that might be less expensive. At this point in the year, maybe I can get by till the fall and take my time over the winter searching. If not, then I'll just go with the 6-blade with a thermostatic clutch. That'll be less costly, and still be an upgrade from the fixed 5-blade and also be quieter.

Again, thank you all!!
 

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My 65 with AC has a 3 core radiator, stock shroud and a stock fan, I just bought a 2710 clutch and a 17117 fan.
 

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Just for the record, I didn't pay any of those "record" prices for the C6OE-G fans and clutches. It's all in knowing what you're looking for and when to get the good deal.
 

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Thanks for making this simple. How about your fan shroud??
 

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Here is the shroud and radiator info, I am not sure they still have this exact radiator.

Radiator is from CJ's #RAD3403340 3-ROW 20" RADIATOR (FLANGE MOUNT) 67 289 ALL/68-69 289/302/351 W/O A/C

Shroud is from NPD - #8146-4 FAN SHROUD, ORIGINAL FORD TOOLING, STRONGER THAN ORIGINAL
 

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Unfortunately I didn't write down the part number and this receipt seems to have gone missing, but I have an Imperial fan clutch that was equivalent to the Hayden 2710.

I got the stock 7-blade Ford fan off of eBay for 25 bucks before someone decided they were made of gold!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
No need to over complicate this. My stock 289, stock radiator, with a fan and clutch setup from NPD.
It keeps my car cool no matter what the temp is, sitting in traffic, whatever.
Thanks IndyFive-O. Ya, I tend to agree. I think that set up will be fine. KISS.

Just one question out of curiosity. Does anyone know how the 6-blade easy to get inexpensive fan really compares to the 7-blade hard to get very expensive “gold” fan? Aside from one extra blade, is the size or pitch of the blades different? Is the difference in airflow that much better?
 

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On my 67 EFI conversion, I used a flex-a-lite 5917 CCW clutch type 6-blade fan and the matching fan clutch from a foxbody. I am sure they make a standard rotation fan, just don't recall the p/n.
 

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Note that on the NPD website that the 6 blade fan is not warranted for use over 4000 rpm. They are absolutely correct. I replaced the original 4 blade fan on my car with the clutch fan setup earlier this summer and it only lasted until the next autocross where I developed a high rpm vibration and it made quick work of destroying my water pump. Not for high rpm applications! I went back to the original 4 blade fan.

I wonder if the 6 blade fan could be balanced for my 6400 rpm redline?
 

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Note that on the NPD website that the 6 blade fan is not warranted for use over 4000 rpm. They are absolutely correct. I replaced the original 4 blade fan on my car with the clutch fan setup earlier this summer and it only lasted until the next autocross where I developed a high rpm vibration and it made quick work of destroying my water pump. Not for high rpm applications! I went back to the original 4 blade fan.

I wonder if the 6 blade fan could be balanced for my 6400 rpm redline?

Funny you should mention that! I chased a vibration in my engine that would come in around 2000 RPM and it turned out to be a bent blade on my 6 blade fan. I straightened it out by hand and the vibration went away. I didnt discover the problem until I started removing belts.
 

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Funny you should mention that! I chased a vibration in my engine that would come in around 2000 RPM and it turned out to be a bent blade on my 6 blade fan. I straightened it out by hand and the vibration went away. I didnt discover the problem until I started removing belts.
Thats interesting! My original 289 C code 4 blade fan has a blade with a rivet and washer on it I assume to balance it? Just looked at the 6 blade clutch fan and it shows no signs of any balancing.

Nice car BTW!
 

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IIRC the fan clutch is designed to freewheel above 4000 rpm so the question of the fan blades being over revved should not be an issue. Does anyone know differently?
 
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