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I am stuck waiting on a tow truck due to an overheating issue. Possibly a stuck thermostat and poor condition radiator. While waiting on the tow truck, I have decided to research a new radiator. The current one is old and seems to have poor flow. What do you all recommend for radiators? I have a 1969 vert with a 302 Holley 4 barrel. Thank you in advance.
 

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ACP Maxcore.....

+1000


NPD and Virginia Classic Mustang carry them..
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for all your suggestions and help. My radiator is currently a 2 core. My newest question is - should I continue with a 2 core or go to a 3 core? I do not have AC or power steering, and it is a manual transmission. I am clueless about the differences regarding the number of cores needed. Thank you in advance.
 

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I got US Radiator from NPD. made in LA $375
well built and nice fit

other than that I liked Griffen
 

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Thank you for all your suggestions and help. My radiator is currently a 2 core. My newest question is - should I continue with a 2 core or go to a 3 core? I do not have AC or power steering, and it is a manual transmission. I am clueless about the differences regarding the number of cores needed. Thank you in advance.
Look for a two row with at least 1" cooling tubes. The ACP Max core is a really good radiator also for less money The ECP radiator is a great value. I have the ECP in my cars.
Mustang Aluminum Radiators
 

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I put the ECP into my 66/302 and it cools it very nicely. I still have an old mechanical flex fan, and it keeps it cool down here in hot a$$ Florida, although i had to make a run for it once when the beach traffic was backed up. I plan to put electric fans on it, but after my long list of things to do on my car. I would HIGHLY recommend this radiator, it matched perfectly into where the old one came out..
 

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Thank you for all your suggestions and help. My radiator is currently a 2 core. My newest question is - should I continue with a 2 core or go to a 3 core? I do not have AC or power steering, and it is a manual transmission. I am clueless about the differences regarding the number of cores needed. Thank you in advance.
There still are a lot of questions you probably know the answer to:

Do you want to keep stock appearance and stock fan/shroud?

Do you want better cooling or was stock size good enough, since you don't even have a/c?

If you go with a stock replacement type with brass cores, you won't find cores larger than 5/8" because brass is too weak to make it 1" like an aluminum ACP, Griffin or Ron Davis. Tests show that 2 cores 1" wide cool better than 3 or 4 little 5/8" cores, lots of theories behind the heat transfer, flow, etc.

I went with a big-block sized Wizard Cooling radiator that has two 1.25" cores and dual Spal brushless (variable speed) fans because I drive in stop-and-go city traffic a lot with a/c. It's got an aftermarket look so even painted black, which I'd never do, it'll still not look stock.

Don't just jump on the electric fan train because most cool worse than the proper mechanical fan and shroud. What's funny is Champion/Northern Radiators are the cheapest radiators out there, with the least expensive epoxy sealed core (as opposed to welded), but I see SO many builders using them, and some are pretty high dollar projects. Kinda blows me away. They say their warranty dept is good too, but I'd rather spend a little more and not have to use the warranty.....???
 

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That's a relief. This is what I ordered!
I also bought a cap with a sacrificial zinc anode. Its supposed to keep corrosion from building up due to the coolant going through dissimilar metals.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
There still are a lot of questions you probably know the answer to:

Do you want to keep stock appearance and stock fan/shroud?

Do you want better cooling or was stock size good enough, since you don't even have a/c?

If you go with a stock replacement type with brass cores, you won't find cores larger than 5/8" because brass is too weak to make it 1" like an aluminum ACP, Griffin or Ron Davis. Tests show that 2 cores 1" wide cool better than 3 or 4 little 5/8" cores, lots of theories behind the heat transfer, flow, etc.

I went with a big-block sized Wizard Cooling radiator that has two 1.25" cores and dual Spal brushless (variable speed) fans because I drive in stop-and-go city traffic a lot with a/c. It's got an aftermarket look so even painted black, which I'd never do, it'll still not look stock.

Don't just jump on the electric fan train because most cool worse than the proper mechanical fan and shroud. What's funny is Champion/Northern Radiators are the cheapest radiators out there, with the least expensive epoxy sealed core (as opposed to welded), but I see SO many builders using them, and some are pretty high dollar projects. Kinda blows me away. They say their warranty dept is good too, but I'd rather spend a little more and not have to use the warranty.....???
Thank you for all the info. Until this happened, I didn't have any issues with cooling. Because of this, I don't think I will change the size of the radiator. I believe it is just that the current radiator is finished. I can't tell if it was original to the car. it appears old but that doesn't mean it's original. After reading all of the suggestions and information, I think I am going to go with an aluminum radiator (ACP MaxCore) and use the original shroud. I know the aluminum isn't stock but right now I would like to be able to drive my car worry-free. I appreciate the info about the Spal fans. I have been thinking of installing one due to the stop-and-go traffic but wasn't sure. I really appreciate all the suggestions, tips,help from everyone.
 

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Ok, I know this is probably a no brainer. Please pardon my ignorance since this is a new thing I am about to do. I am about to install the new aluminum radiator, after breaking down last weekend. The old radiator was just clogged up and couldn't be salvaged. FYI, am going to hold on the old one (it might be original) but wanted to get back on the road asap with the new aluminum one. So, my question, is should I flush the whole system before installing the new radiator or after? My concern is that if there is rust, who knows what, etc. in the system (coolant passages in the motor, etc.) after the radiator bit the dust, plus I don't want any of that stuff going into the new radiator. Again, this is very new to me. Thank you in advance for any suggestions, hints, etc.
 

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Ok, I know this is probably a no brainer. Please pardon my ignorance since this is a new thing I am about to do. I am about to install the new aluminum radiator, after breaking down last weekend. The old radiator was just clogged up and couldn't be salvaged. FYI, am going to hold on the old one (it might be original) but wanted to get back on the road asap with the new aluminum one. So, my question, is should I flush the whole system before installing the new radiator or after? My concern is that if there is rust, who knows what, etc. in the system (coolant passages in the motor, etc.) after the radiator bit the dust, plus I don't want any of that stuff going into the new radiator. Again, this is very new to me. Thank you in advance for any suggestions, hints, etc.
Yes you can and should flush it before, AND since your block will probably be shedding debris for a time to come, consider an in-line filter in your upper radiator hose, one you can open and clean easily. Google search turns up many.



or
 

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I’m late to this party, but I have a brass, 4-row radiator out of a ‘67-‘68 in my ‘65 withba Mechanical fan.

I can flog that car up a mountain road, right foot down, on a 90 degree day, and the temp barely budges off 180. Same for sitting in traffic on the hottest days, even with no shroud.

It also looks a little more appropriate than a modern, aluminum radiator, in my opinion.
 
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