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When I re-purchased my '66 Fastback almost a year ago, it came with a 6000 rpm rally pac installed. Unfortunately it does not work. The tach is stuck on 600 rpm with what looks to be a slightly bent pointer. The clock does not work at all. I can (with a struggle) change the time / movement. The car originally did come with a RP, but was removed when I first bought the car in 1986. (Yes I previously owned the car and sold it in 1999)

I have been kicking around with either having the tach rebuilt by RCC and also having the clock either rebuilt or changed to quartz movement. Or, just buying a Scott Drake rally pac and be done with it. It seems that both options will come in about the same price...I am concerned with either option working once I swap over to an EFI system. (leaning towards the Holley Sniper system along with the Sniper dizzy system...)

If I do go the route of just buying the SD rally pac, is there even a market for a 54 year old non working rally pac???

Thanks
 

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There will always be a market for original Rally Pacs. Whether you rebuild or replace is up to you, but there are a couple of ways a judge or sharp-eyed enthusiast can spot the repros. The repro needles are not quite identical to OEM, and Drake doesn't paint the housings properly. You can fix the paint on a slow Saturday. The needles are hard to spot. The "Ford" is missing from the repro tach, because there would have been a considerable cost to put it there.

OEM-
744445


Repro-
744447

"I am concerned with either option working once I swap over to an EFI system. (leaning towards the Holley Sniper system along with the Sniper dizzy system...)"
Replacement and Repro tachs typically must be wired to the coil, unlike the OEM Faria tach, which connected in series at the ignition switch.
 

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I guarantee you that if you bought a SD pac, took your old one, cleaned it a bit, opened it up and slid the needle back to Zero, and wandered around a swap meet to a Mustang parts dealer and casually looked stuff over, and pulled out the Rally pac and stated that it came with a car, and you did not need it. Ask if if would be worth $125, and you would walk away with cash in hand and the dealer would be chuckling over making a rip.
 

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There's just something about having an original. I like the scratch and clunk of the rewind and the ticking. Fix yours and be very proud of it. I do recommend the LED bulb replacement.
 

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I paid about $400 for an original 8K Rallypac 20 years ago...so yeah there's a market. As I mentioned the other day, on the KBB site (at least the last time I looked) having a RP added 5% to the value of the car being priced.

So...I'm a fan of the OEM ones and since you already have one, I don't know why you would use anything else.

Back in the day Tachman was the go to for RP restoration....but maybe he's not around anymore? On the clock, I originally got mine rebuilt, but it would gain or lose a couple of minutes a day...meaning if you drive your car once every 2 weeks, every time you get in the clock is off half an hour. I had one of the quartz conversions installed eventually (kept the parts out of the old one around here somewhere). The quartz converted clock only needs adjustment if the battery has been disconnected for some reason....other than that it keeps "perfect" time.

Phil
 

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The original pointers are made from a weird plastic that tends to warp over time. It could be that the pointer is binding on the face. The OEM clock movement is an early (pre '69) Borg movement and can probably be repaired. I say keep the original.
 
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