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Just go to the auto paint shop and get a catalyzed single stage (no clear coat) paint in whatever your color. A nice Finex 3000 paint gun is around a hundred buck, sand, tape and shoot. I painted my old Scout outside and it came out very nice. I do paint regularly, so that helps, but anyone that has some talent in their hands can do a decent job. You can always color sand and buff out imperfections.
 

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@67 Doctor , I sprayed this car with SPI epoxy primer (not the door of course) with a cheap harbor freight gun. This car doesn't have to be perfect as it's being built to track. I've never painted a car before but it turned out pretty good.

View attachment 740911

Allen

I’m not trying to bee critical, but it looks like you missed a little spot on that passenger door.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
well with all of this advice there is good and bad, When i first posted this i had sprayedon Rustoleum 2x paint, i thought it was primer. duh...... So I figured since it was already covered in paint im ight as well finish. I went wth Charcoal gray satn which is just a touch darker than i wanted. However it turned out really pretty decent. it also highlights the areas of the car that still need work. So i figure i will sand it with 600 grit and put a little Bondo on the panels to get everything 100%. The car is only a garage queen because I didnt want to drive it the way it looked. Now it looks good enough ( hardly no tiger stripping) for me to rive to swaap meets or around town, I can take as much time getting all of the panels 100% and still drive around. i was considering Maaco but I like learning about all aspects of vintage cars so i will do it myself.
Unfortunately my air compressor is on 6.5 scfm so I figure i would perfect a panel then shoot it. perfect another panel then shoot that, then finally through on some clear coat and buff, polish and smoke a cigar
 

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Discussion Starter #45
The worst that could happen is you have some tiger striping (which could have happened with rattle can too), and you have a lot of orange peel and runs and will just have to do a lot of sanding. But with an actual urethane automotive paint your paint job will look a thousand times better than any rattle can job, and it will last much longer too. You can sand your arms off to make it perfect and it will look great.

Let's not move too quickly or rashly. Don't buy anything yet either. It's important to plan this out so you don't end up buying the wrong stuff or do the wrong thing.

So to start with, what is currently on your car? How did you apply it and what brand, etc.

Second--which paint system were you thinking about going with?

Third--do you just want color, and don't care if there's ripples or little dings in the body work? The minimal option is to simply put down epoxy and then your color over that. If you want to start perfecting the body then you're getting mission creep. It's not that much more difficult, but will cost more money and require more time. I'm trying to keep my suggestions as inexpensive for you while still getting the maximum bang for your buck.
so like I said i already have an air compresson and HVLP gun I just figured I didnt have the skill level for a good paint job.
I dont know what you mean by Paint System. I used Dupont i think Refinish Primer. Then I accidently sprayed Rustoleum 2x Satin Spray paint ( I thought it was primer).
Do I just want color, probably not, this is my baby Im nursing her back to health as she nurses me back to health. I actually enjoy sanding and dont mind putting in multiple hours sanding out a panel. She is not a daily driver so I am not in a rush. I am setting a goal to finish the paint before June.
 

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You will want to remove that rustoleum as it will likely give you some nasty shrinkage later if it doesn't wrinkle as soon as you top coat it with anything. There are some great epoxies out there that aren't priced too bad, my local PPG sells me an industrial line they don't sell off the shelf and it fills like crazy, sands decent and seals everything under it quite well. I have used it on everything from high end car and motorcycle paint to big dollar aircraft jobs with no drama. Tintable too if desired...
 

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Ok all, after Lizers inspiring words, I am going to try to spray it myself. So here is the question, I have done a moderate amount of prep work and plan to do more. Can I spray epoxy primer over the paint job i already did or do I need to go pack down to bare metal.
@Lizer said it perfectly. Have a little faith in yourself. Even if you did rattle can it, it would come off before the “real” paint job. So DIY and be content with it for 5+ years or however long it takes to save the $$ to do it how you want it done!
 

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I absolutely love those Yamaha colours. I am building a 1985 Yamaha RD500 V4 2 stroke ( RZ500 I think in the US ) and I really want to do it in those colours. A sort of Kenny Roberts tribute.
Exactly. Did you catch the "RD50" on it? I used to be heavy into R5's and RD's. The best we got over here (other than TZ race bikes and such) was the liquid cooled RZ400. Best one I had was an R5 with a "Daytona" RD400 top end on it. Pictured bike is some no-name Chinese thing I got at a jumble sale. The King Kenny stripes turned out easier to lay out by eye than I thought.
 

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well with all of this advice there is good and bad, When i first posted this i had sprayedon Rustoleum 2x paint, i thought it was primer. duh...... So I figured since it was already covered in paint im ight as well finish. I went wth Charcoal gray satn which is just a touch darker than i wanted. However it turned out really pretty decent. it also highlights the areas of the car that still need work. So i figure i will sand it with 600 grit and put a little Bondo on the panels to get everything 100%. The car is only a garage queen because I didnt want to drive it the way it looked. Now it looks good enough ( hardly no tiger stripping) for me to rive to swaap meets or around town, I can take as much time getting all of the panels 100% and still drive around. i was considering Maaco but I like learning about all aspects of vintage cars so i will do it myself.
Unfortunately my air compressor is on 6.5 scfm so I figure i would perfect a panel then shoot it. perfect another panel then shoot that, then finally through on some clear coat and buff, polish and smoke a cigar
Do not put bondo over 600 grit, that is nowhere near enough tooth, especially on paint. You will have adhesion failure. For your specific situation you'd be best to sand that area back down to bare metal with 80 grit and apply the filler to that.

Unfortunately you don't have a lot of CFM to spray very well, especially an HVLP gun. I'm guessing you probably have a small tank too and spraying takes a lot of air so your compressor will constantly be running and hard to keep up. How big is the tank? If it's 20 gallon you could do one panel at a time. Much smaller than that, coupled with your low air volume, and you're going to have pressure drops while you're spraying and poor atomization of the paint.

What I would recommend is do one or two panels at a time. Strip them down to bare metal, clean with wax and grease remover, and spray with 2 coats SPI epoxy. THEN put your filler over that. NOW--you're doing it no different than the pro's except you're doing it yourself! And the trigger time with the epoxy will really help you learn. It will spray a lot like the single stage urethane.

TIP: always have a second panel prepped and ready to spray. If you mixed up too much epoxy, you then have a second panel to start spraying it on. As time goes on, you will learn about how much to mix up based on the size of panel you are doing, but it helps to write notes as you do this.
 

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so like I said i already have an air compresson and HVLP gun I just figured I didnt have the skill level for a good paint job.
I dont know what you mean by Paint System. I used Dupont i think Refinish Primer. Then I accidently sprayed Rustoleum 2x Satin Spray paint ( I thought it was primer).
Do I just want color, probably not, this is my baby Im nursing her back to health as she nurses me back to health. I actually enjoy sanding and dont mind putting in multiple hours sanding out a panel. She is not a daily driver so I am not in a rush. I am setting a goal to finish the paint before June.
You don't have the skill set right NOW. But you're going to ;)
 

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Your compressor is too small for HVLP. You may be able to get by with a conventional spray gun.

Make sure you get this exact one if you go to HF. It’s 7.7 cfm @ 50 psi. If you have 6.5 cfm @ 90 psi you should be able to make this work. You’ll still only be able to do a panel at a time.


A paint system is basically layers of paint componets, primers, sealers, reducer, activators, color and clear to name most of them. Typically products within the same brand and line are compatible but other product like SPI or Tamco are compatible with most other systems.
 

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Discussion Starter #54
Ok so yes my air compressor is 6.9 scfm and 13 gallon,. Question, is it ok to use an electric sander for higher grits, I know I can use it to go to bare metal but im talking about for finishing work like the higher grits
 

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Ok so yes my air compressor is 6.9 scfm and 13 gallon,. Question, is it ok to use an electric sander for higher grits, I know I can use it to go to bare metal but im talking about for finishing work like the higher grits
You can get LVLP guns (low volume, low pressure), or a syphon-feed like Vegas pointed out. You said you have a spray gun, do you know what kind it is?

Sanding opens a big can of worms. Use an electric sander with 80 grit to knock the bulk off filler. You can hit it with 220 or 180 if you wish to start the finish. But filler should be finished with block sanding so you get it completely flat and straight.

For body work there's only a few grits I use:

--80 for stripping and knocking down filler
--180 to 220 for finishing filler (block sanding by hand)
--180 to 220 for block sanding high build primer (block sanding by hand)
--400 (for solid colors) or 600 (for metallic) wet in preparation for basecoat.

It's a little safer to use a finer grit than a coarser grit if you're lacking confidence; this will ensure you don't take off too much too fast. It just takes a little longer.
 

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Eastwood has some guns that only want 4.25CFM at 30PSI. Definitely doable if you want to with a small compressor.
 

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You’ll still need 10-12 cfm for an LVLP. I’ve got a couple of LVLP guns, an Iwata LPH 400 LVX for color and clear and an Air Gunsa AZ3 HTE for primer. You can be within a couple cfm but 5 cfm is quite a bit to make up.
They will still spray, even when greatly underpowered. They just won't have the atomization that they would with full power.
 

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I'm with the don't do it crowd. Buy Summit racing or somebody else's version of singe stage Wimbledon white and a cheap spray gun. White hide sins the best!
 
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