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Discussion Starter #1
I've read every GT40P engine swap thread for the past year and almost bought one during the Winter but life got in the way. Now I'm back on track to make it happen. I hope to get some advice from those with experience with junkyard engines.
I plan to buy from Triangle Auto Recyclers in Durham, NC. Has anyone used these folks before?
I don't know how deep they will let me look into the engines before selecting one. What's normal?
I have tools and a Harbor Freight remote camera that might fit into the spark plug holes.
I plan to dress the engine to look like a stock 289.
Any advice is appreciated!
 

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Do they pull the engines as they come in and have them on a shelf somewhere or sitting in the car outside? lots of places offer a replacement warranty of a few months so I'd have all my ducks in a row to slap it in and run it quickly to see just in case. Pop the valves covers and look for sludge or coke which means lack of oil changes or overheating.
If you get a complete one you can sell the upper and lower intake for a few bucks. You might even leave on the spaghetti headers and see how they fit in the engine bay.
A person might guess that one from a Merc Mountaineer was owned by a bit more conscientious owner but even with Lincoln drivers the third and fourth + owners seem to be less caring.
The best would be from a car that was wrecked, preferably in the rear. There aren't going to be many with relative low miles anymore but there are good reports on ones all the way up to 200K miles.
 
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Mine was pretty much blind faith, pig in a poke CL buy. All the wrong reasons to buy. The seller was a small motor cycle shop the owner took in trade for money owed to him by a customer. Does it get any worse? He said it was suppose to be under 40k miles owned by a elderly couple who wreck their Mountaineer. Runs great.

I picked up @2nd 66 GT40P. The one I got the engine from had been in a accident. Mileage was 115K. It had a oil change sticker on the windshield, the oil looked ok, didn't smell like antifreeze or gasoline. The radiator was full. So I pulled the trigger. These motors will easily do 300k miles. So even one with 200k will still have a lot of life left in it
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I believe they pull them as they come in. I'm not going to be able to run the engine for a while, so I'll need to be through in my inspection. I had hoped to go after it tomorrow, but no one is answering the phone today. Might still be on their 4th of July holiday.
 

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You can do a leakdown test on the cylinders and get a very solid idea on the overall condition. Won't really help if it has a spun bearing or something though.
 

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I pulled mine from a local junkyard. Checked their website until the right car showed up. I pulled them by myself and it took me 3-4 hours. Next time it will be faster for sure. I looked at the total mileage of the car and start pulling them out. The good thing at the junkyard is you only pay for stuff you take with you. So I could inspect the heads before purchasing. Valve and valve guides can be a topic. I just did a visual inspection. They had a special sale, so it was only $45 :)
Have you talked to a machine shop how much a rebuild would be? This can easily add up (valve job, valve guide and so on). Are you planning to use the stock springs?
 

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for the most part nobody is out there beating on or ,racing Explorers and the 5.0 version only gets an auto. I'm sure the 1st time I revved to 6+k that was probably double what it ever did in it's past life.
unlike buying a 5.0 from a Mustang where you know it's seen some abuse
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The junkyard is about 2 1/2 hours away. My local pick and pull always says they have one, but they never do.
I do plan to change valve springs and cam while it's on the engine stand.
I'd like to run the engine before going into it, but I don't have a way to provide 35 psi of fuel pressure. Any ideas for that?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm considering buying 2 GT40P engines while I'm there. I've got 2 Mustang projects, both need engines.
One is for a 65 with a 4sp, manual brakes and steering. This is the one that will get a better cam and valve springs with decent driveability in mind.
The other is a 66 with an automatic and power brakes that will stay stock with a carb
The 66 will likely be collecting dust for another year, but engines aren't getting any easier to find.
 

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Be aware of what you'll need to replace for the swap. The stock cam and valve springs are terrible for a performance build. Assuming you're sticking with a roller cam, you'll need an appropriate distributor with the correct drive gear. These motors use rear sump oil pans with the dipstick boss cast into the side of the block. So you'll need to plug the block hole, swap to a front sump pan and swap out the timing cover. If you plan on running a mechanical fuel pump, you'll need to install the drive eccentric on the end of the cam. They're also 50oz motors, so with the '66 auto car, you'll probably be okay with the factory flexplate, but the '65 4sp, you'll need a 50oz flywheel from a Foxbody. Assuming you're using the factory Z-bar on that, you'll need the bracket for the z-bar pivot since they don't have that hole cast in the block. Don't forget to buy the plugs for the smog injection bosses on the rear of the heads. Then I'm sure you're well aware of the header issues and spark plug clearances. MAC headers used to be a perfect fit, but I've heard they're out of business now.

It's a doable process, but it can be costly if you have to buy all these parts. These motors are great swaps for Foxbodies because there's not as much that needs to be swapped out. If you get these engines for a sub-$500 price, I think you'd be doing ok.
 

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MAC is out of business?

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I hope the old headers in the car work. I'll be buying a 50 oz flywheel/clutch and a distributor. I have a 289 for donor parts.
Smog plugs would be for a 1995 or 1996 engine only, right?
 

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Also, it’s common for the corner intake manifold bolts to break and need extraction.
Luck for me, I only had one broken bolt.
 

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I hope the old headers in the car work. I'll be buying a 50 oz flywheel/clutch and a distributor. I have a 289 for donor parts.
Smog plugs would be for a 1995 or 1996 engine only, right?
These are the plugs you'll need. Don't use bolts, they won't work.

I had GT40P heads. I can almost guarantee if you have Hooker, Hedman or Flowtech style headers, they will not work. I don't have pics of them, but I have tried them and they don't work. Here's some pics of the issues with the cast iron manifolds and how much clearance you get with the MAC headers.





 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the link to the plugs.
If my headers don't fit I'll have to go with manifolds for now to stay close to my budget
 

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look for a '96 - a lot of those had the regular 3 bar gt40 heads - no header issues - the intakes are also worth money to the fox crowd, unless you intend to run the stock FI too - a stock HO cam is a nice upgrade and can be found cheap or free
 

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You can do this pretty cheap. Hit up a you pull it on 1/2 day sale. I Took the complete engine out of a 1998 mountaineer, even wiring that I cut off at the firewall. The cam in thats engine is pretty good for a daily driver its got good torque and designed to move the SUV tank around so in the mustang its a great match. I just pressed out the “distributor snub” they call it cam phaser drive gear and pressed that on to the regular vacuum advanced distributor. Used all the drive assesories And wired the 130A alternator per online wire up instructions. Just removed and installed my 2 barrel intake manifold and carb on the 5.0 gt40p engine. The gt40p heads do not have emissions port on the back of the heads. I used a regular front sump aluminum pan (With proper oil pickup tube) that I welded a -6an fitting to the side and used a braded hose with a flexible dip stick to check the oil level. As for the flexplate, just buy one for a 50oz balance either “big” or “small”, my c4 had a “small” bellhousing want to say like 164 tooth vs 172 tooth. Also used the c4 block spacer plate and a fox mustang starter.
All in I want to say I spent $700 as I reused alot of parts.
The most expensive was the Sanderson gt40p swap Shorty headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I'm desperate enough to get the first one I can find! The junk yard in NC that had 3 a few months ago only has 1 now with 238K on it for $350.. Locally I can get one with 225K for $750 and that's just not going to happen.
The local Pick & Save always says they have one, but never do.
I'm going to have to step up my game a bit to get what I want.
 
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