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Discussion Starter #1
Now that I have the engine out, I am ready to start refurbishing the rear end. All I know is that it is a 8" rear with 2.80 gears. I believe accoring to the tag that it might be a 1975 vintage. When going to NAPA or whoever, what parts do I need besides the obvious pumpkin to housing gasket, wheel bearings (ball or taper roller?)/seals, new pads and brake cylinder? I plan to tear it down to the empty housing for cleaning and repainting. I'll probably have the drums turned as well. I have no plans to tear into the differential itself, but only to carefully remove the assembly from the axle housing.

Though I don't see any obvious leaks under either wheel wouldn't be wise to replace the axle bearings and seals while I'm in that tear apart frame of mind? Can't the pumpkin be removed without messing up the current backlash, etc? Will replacing the pumpkin to housing gasket change any settings?

Looking at the books on replacing the axle oil seals, looks pretty straight forward. If I'm going to have the pumpkin removed, I'd probably simply use a long pipe and come in from the opposite end of the housing and drive out the old seals out(did this on my '50 chevy truck recently with fantastic results).

The only area of concern is cleaning the outside of the carrier housing for painting while the differential is still connected to it. Hate to see road grime and other foreign substance get into the gears. Maybe a good masking off step will help minimimze the invasion.

Any words of wisdom/suggestions would greatly be appreciated.
 

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I'm sure the expert will chime in soon, but I basically did what you are planning. Yes you can remove & replace the pumpkin without affecting the backlash. Definitely replace the axle bearing and seals while you are at it (cheap insurance). The axle bearing will have to be pressed off, I didn't have a press so I just took the axles down to rear-end shop with my new bearings and they did it for a few bucks. I used a slide hammer to remove the seals, but your pipe method sounds good, just make sure you don't scratch the inside of the housing where the seals go.
As for cleaning I sandblasted the whole rear end first. That kept the disassembly very clean, except the the gunk in the housing.
oh don't forget new crush washers for the pumpkin. The old crush washers often cause the pumpkin to stick on even with nuts removed. If the pumpkin doesn't want to come off, double check you have gotten all the washers, finally try tapping the housing with a hammer, I found the vibrations separated the the pumpkin from the housing.
 

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Your parts list looks fine.
I replaced the bearings and seals (you must replace at least the seals) while mine was apart.
Pulling the center section out is a must if you are going to do a good cleaning job. When re-installing, some use gaskets and some use rtv, I used both with no leaks. It will not upset the backlash as far as I know.
I suggest you buy a seal puller though. About $10 well spent.
Be aware that there are small crush washers on each housing stud that must be removed. I cut mine with side cutters and a screwdriver.
 

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As everyone else has said, replace the axle bearings and seals. I pulled the pumpkin, cleaned it good, and detailed it. I cleaned the housing (inside and out) and detailed it. Re-assembly is simple and it's a good opportunity to make your rear end look good without costly surgery. http://pic2.picturetrail.com/VOL9/1785303/3437215/43671672.jpg
http://pic2.picturetrail.com/VOL9/1785303/3437215/43671700.jpg
 

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I'd replace the pinion seal while it is out...

Very simple!
remove the pinion nut, tap off the yoke, R&R the seal, replace the yoke, nut and torque to spec.
 

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When I was removing the rear end housing from our '65 I found it impossible to unscrew the brake flex hose. Before I wasted too much time on it I realized that I could detach the entire hard line from the axle housing and leave it dangling from the chassis with some baling wire. So if you have a problem with that part of the tear down, leave well enough alone and just remove the hard line from the housing.

Also, I would not use any gaskets, just RTV silicone. Plain flat washers, or no washers at all, work on the studs -- no need to run down the OE crush washers.

Finally, on the brake rebuild use a new hardware kit too. One of those might-as-wells.

As far as all the painting and detailing goes, just realize that the first puddle of sprinkler run-off you go through is going to trash the whole deal. :(

7
 

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I would also recommend buying a seal puller. I bought one at sears last week for $7. Used it to remove the axle and the pinion seals. I can't believe I didn't buy one a long time ago.

For the axle bearings, I bought mine at napa. My local napa also has a machine shop, so I got them to press them on too.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Since the rear end is not stock for my car, how do I know what to ask for regarding rear bearings, gaskets, oil seals, etc.

Mr. Napa Auto man,
I need axle seals, bearings and differential gaskets for a 1965 mustang that has a 5 lug 8" 2.80 rear end ?????
 

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I agree with all of the above...I also went to napa on the last two cars I worked on to have them press on new bearings.I bought a seal puller at napa and it still wouldn't pull one of the original double walled ford seals so I used the claw of a hammer to remove it!!! This actualy worked better. :)

The machine shop also let us know from his experience that one side(cant remember right or left side) of the axel bearings wears out first in an open rear end.
 
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