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Discussion Starter #1
New member here. I've got a '68 Mustang fastback; nothing special really, just a 289, 4-spd with a Ford 9" rear. Body was restored back in 1996, but still looks incredible. Driveline was rebuilt at the same time, but I am looking "upgrade" to a roller 347 stroker with Holley EFI set-up, 5-spd World Class T5, new JBA headers, new EFI tank and Edelbrock 2.02 heads. All I have are the Edelbrock heads and a air-gap intake
Local shop quoted $16.5k to take the car in it's current set-up and deliver it back with this new combo. They'll start with a vintage 68 block, add a cast crank and steel rods, and use my Edelbrock heads and intake. They will also reuse my current bellhousing, pedals, linkage, etc.

Does this seem like a reasonable price? Initially, it sounded high, but there's a lot of time involved and unsure-ities about what they may find. They are also a highly reputable shop in my area for work on Mustangs.

Thoughts?
Cincylance

745902
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I forgot to mention that I requested a set-up with great drivability, a noticeable cam idle and 400hp at the crank.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Funny you say 400HP...I know what that cost in a 289... ;)

Allen
So true. My current 289 set-up has reworked iron heads, 10.5:1 compression, TRW forged pop-up pistons, headers, Edelbrock intake x two 500 cfm carbs and I doubt it makes more than 325 hp.
 

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A 415hp Blueprint 347 longblock with a 30 month / 50,000 mile warranty is $4800 from Summit.

 

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A 415hp Blueprint 347 longblock with a 30 month / 50,000 mile warranty is $4800 from Summit.

How does that equate to what the OP is asking? He is having a shop build the engine, the transmission, remove his and install the new, etc. from start to finish along with headers, EFI, and more.

To buy a crate motor and do what is proposed would cost the OP at least similar to what the shop has quoted IMHO.

Allen
 

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If they find "something else" i would expect that to be added on top of the original quote.
In a perfect conscientious quality world that's not an insane price Lots of variables that needs a more detailed quote though like brand names, specs and what happens to the old parts. Have you priced a vintage 4spd lately?.
What I imagine they can be into it for: Under $3K for the engine, $1.5K for trans and adapters. $2K for EFI and tank(not the latest Holley offerings). Throw in the headers and all the other nit picking things for another 1k+ then double that for shop time labor, incidentals and profit and you get to 16K.. About normal

I wouldn't expect top shelf for that price, and you may never notice but consider ARP bolts alone can add $5-700+ and a grand is easily lost in a different valve train. Also there could be hundreds $$$ difference in a cam, and sometimes its just in the name. Again for pistons and multiples of that in the crank plus an Astro T5 to handle the power will be twice the cost of a basic WC T5 and you can see that the next guy might spend that 16K easily and still do their own labor.
Get more details, then get wise. You don't need all top shelf or fancy name parts but its wise to know where not to scrimp.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Wow, great in-depth answer! I will definitely ask for a detailed list before committing, some of which I already have. The ARP bolts slipped my mind, but I will definitely be asking about that. They did specify a cast crank, steel rods and roller cam. My Edelbrock heads are the better grades ones that Edelbrock offers and they have new Scorpion roller rockers.
I don’t plan to race the car, but don’t plan to baby it either, so I want to be sure it’s built right.
 

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i realize you already have some good heads and "stroker" sounds cool but ask about a 351W as well. It will be easier to make lower stress power and already has a better bottom end going for it. . i'm not sure about the T5 situation though.
 

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I'm not that knowledgeable on SBFs, and I've been waiting for someone to ask: why a "vintage 68 block" instead of a late model roller block if you're going with a roller cam?
 
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Seems like a good deal, given all that you want.

I’m curious what that itemised quote for parts and labour actually looks like.

As asked above, I am also curious why starting with a “vintage 68 block” if you plan in going roller. Retrofit roller upgrades are pretty pricey compared to a factory roller set up. The only thing I can think of that makes sense is for use with z bar clutch linkage (as I understand it, late model blocks do not have the zbar mounting location, although retrofitting that is an easy task).


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If they are providing everything, labor, rest of the parts (including the transmission), assembly, get it back to you ready to drive and all you have to do is enjoy, that's sounds like a good deal to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
  • I considered a 351 or 351 stroker, but decided against it for multiple reasons. The appeal of a 289/302 stroker engine is it can still appear as the original engine. A 351 engine was never original in a 68 Mustang and I’ve heard the height of a performance intake can cause clearance issues with a stock hood with a 351 in a 68.
  • Regarding a 68 block, that way I can maintain the current water pump/radiator set-up. Not critical, but they happened to have a 68 block with the stock bore.
 

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  • I considered a 351 or 351 stroker, but decided against it for multiple reasons. The appeal of a 289/302 stroker engine is it can still appear as the original engine. A 351 engine was never original in a 68 Mustang and I’ve heard the height of a performance intake can cause clearance issues with a stock hood with a 351 in a 68.
  • Regarding a 68 block, that way I can maintain the current water pump/radiator set-up. Not critical, but they happened to have a 68 block with the stock bore.
I have a late model block in my 68. Still using all the early front accessories (ish).. Aftermarket standard rotstion w/p and march serpentine belt, but an early timing cover, with a provision for a mech fuel pump.

All your front accessory stuff should fit in a later block. I’m sure someone will correct me if I’m wrong


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Discussion Starter #19
Ah, that’s great to hear. Then if the old and new blocks are essentially the same (except for the z-bar attachment point) what makes it so tough to go to a roller cam set-up in an older block?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
Regarding the stroker comment, I had a 472 Hemi stroker putting down 650hp and it made me a believer in the stroker build over a stock crank and rod set-up.
 
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