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1967 GT500
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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone have a suggestion on removing a hung up rear brake drum? I removed one side by hand as you should be able to. I can't get the other side off. I have the adjustment knob all the way in. The drum spins freely, but I can't pull it off by hand. Never had it off before. I tried hammering it from behind with a block of wood but no results. Is there such a thing as a drum puller that can be borrowed from the likes of O'Reilly or Auto Zone? Thanks.
 

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1967 GT500
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Discussion Starter #4
It seems to be stuck on the brake shoes despite the adjuster being all the way in. The drum is clean and rust free.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks. I'll try that. I now remember that I did have that drum off a month ago and it went back on tight. I tapped it in place with a hammer. Yet wheel spins with no friction on the drum. Maybe warped drum?
 

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If the drum spins it's not "stuck" on the shoes. There might be a ridge on the drum edge that traps it on the shoes. Or the adjuster was not the correct part. I had that happen once. Follow the advice to cut the hold down pins at the back of the backing plate. You can also unbolt the wheel cylinder if necessary.
 

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If the rear drum turns freely, then it's not stuck to the brake shoes. Try spraying penetrating oil on the hub on the axle shaft and where the studs come through the drum. After it sits overnight, tab the face/outer edge of the drum with a rubber hammer (or carefully with a ball peen). You should see some rusty oil seeping out.
 

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I just replied over on Concours Mustang. So another question. When you say it is stuck, does it move off the axle any amount, as if it is stuck to the brake shoes, they will flex out a little due to the pins and springs as cougar70 has described, the drum will move slightly off the axle. If this is the case, then your shoes and drum are badly grooved. If the drum does not move any amount on the axle, then the drum is more than likely rusted to the axle. As I posted over on Concours Mustang and as Travis98146 has just said, WD40 and in my opinion, a heavy metal (6 LB. Sledge Hammer) tapped around the drum and center of the axle will hopefully break it free.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks. There is no movement at all when I pull on it and I had to tap it on a month or so ago. It had no grooves in the drum so it must be hung up on the hub.
 

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Thanks. There is no movement at all when I pull on it and I had to tap it on a month or so ago. It had no grooves in the drum so it must be hung up on the hub.
My experience is to get a little aggressive with the sledge hammer. Thread the lug nuts onto the ends of the studs so you do not bugger them up if you hit one. And yes, I have also smacked them straight on with the lugs nuts flush with the studs, but think hitting the center of the axle would be the better option. Again, use something like PB Blaster, or WD40 to help with any rust and lubricate the two surfaces to help them separate from each other.
 

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Interesting that the person in this video tells you not to hit the outside edges of the drum, but then proceeds to tell you to use a puller that pulls on the outside edges of the drum. And yes, use of lubricants may require you to install new shoes due to shoe contamination. But, if it helps get the drum off...
 

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If it won't pull at all it does sound like it is stuck on the hub. My weapon of first resort on stuff like this is my little hand held torch. If you heat it evenly around the hub and around the lug nut studs in that general area it will probably turn loose. Don't heat it up to the point that it is smoking. What usually warps them is the massive heat around the outer ring where the brake shoe mates with the brake drum and then running through some big splash of water.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Problem fixed. Thanks all. You can see my original K&H drums in the pictures. A little silicone spray around the hub/axle with a few light hits from behind with a hammer and block of wood and it popped off. I must have lightly press fit the drum to the hub. I don't feel any burrs with my fingers on either surface, but a little sand paper or machining will be next.
 

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After clean up and before installing, put light coat of anti-seize on axle flange and center of drum.
 

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I use heat between the studs and axle. It doesnt take much, you will hear a pop when it frees itself.
 

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Problem fixed. Thanks all. You can see my original K&H drums in the pictures. A little silicone spray around the hub/axle with a few light hits from behind with a hammer and block of wood and it popped off. I must have lightly press fit the drum to the hub. I don't feel any burrs with my fingers on either surface, but a little sand paper or machining will be next.
Good to hear you got that drum removed. As above, a little anti-seize on the drum cutout will prevent this happening again.
 

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It looks like someone painted the drum black. That's fine, but you don't want the inside painted anywhere. That could stick to the axle flange. Whenever a drum is removed you should spend a few minutes to make sure the mating flanges are clean and smooth. A little crud there can cause problems.
 
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