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Well I've done it now. My 9" rear end is in pieces for cleaning, inspection, and revamping with SSBC rear disc setup. I haven't been this deep inside one before with all internals removed. All looks pretty clean inside actually.

I am going over the housing, smoothing welds, and wire brushing the exterior. Any tips on exterior prime and paint? How best to protect the primed front cover?

How about sealing? Will great stuff do the trick or? Usually use new lock nuts on the third member cover? I want this thing to stay nice and dry on the outside.

Thanks in advance
 

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Well I've done it now. My 9" rear end is in pieces for cleaning, inspection, and revamping with SSBC rear disc setup. I haven't been this deep inside one before with all internals removed. All looks pretty clean inside actually.
Congratulations, I recently finished an 8.8 who decided to start eating it's own internals. Pretty interesting inside aren't they?

I am going over the housing, smoothing welds, and wire brushing the exterior. Any tips on exterior prime and paint? How best to protect the primed front cover?
I'd probably find a paint that looks like a primer. Others will be here shortly to better answer that.

How about sealing? Will great stuff do the trick or? Usually use new lock nuts on the third member cover? I want this thing to stay nice and dry on the outside.
Use no gasket, and ultra seal "high temp" red by 3M. Make sure surfaces are clean and dry.

Thanks in advance
...you're welcome.......
Now go fix that mess.......
 

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I rebuilt my rear axle about this time last year.

You can get a rag and put it in one end of the axle and use a broom stick to push it through to the center section of the axle to clean it out well. Mine looked rather clean but I sprayed brake cleaner inside and did this and was surprised at the grime which came out.

I cleaned the outside of mine with a wire wheel as you describe. I used Rust Encapsulator and Extreme Chassis Black from Eastwood on my axle. It has held up very well.

The center section should be red oxide. I put a couple of coats which was a mistake. When I tightened the nuts, the paint kind of cracked around them and flaked off a little. I don't think this would have happened it I used a light coat or two.

I used a gasket with the copper washers/nuts. I coated the gasket with RTV and it sealed up great. I've not had any leaks. I've not done the job without a gasket but from my experience, I would use one.
 

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Brake Clean and lots of rags for the inside. Once you get the outside in bare metal you want to prime it with an epoxy primer or etch primer then topcoat with a nice semi gloss black.

An alternative if you want to spend a couple bucks is to have the housing powder coated. It is very durable...

Sealing. Great Stuff and stock gasket. Don't forget new axle seals and just a super thin coat of sealer on the axle bearing just for insurance.
 

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An alternative if you want to spend a couple bucks is to have the housing powder coated. It is very durable....
How does the powder coating hold up, around the brake line clips? Thinking about doing one, but was afraid it might develop a failure, there....
 

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i just got done doing this about two weeks ago...
picked up a 9" that a guy had sitting in his backyard for years! i sanded, scraped, ground away and blasted at it for a while until i had nothing but bare metal, i then applied some of the self etching primer from eastwood, followed by a couple coats of high temp semi gloss and let it dry...

this was all of course while the diff was out. with the diff out i soaked it in 30w for about a week, turning the gears as much as i could to clean out any 'gunk' left in them... i took brake cleaner and rags and cleaned till the insides were spotless, replaced the seals at the axle tubes, pressed new bearings onto the shafts, replaced the diff and sealed everything up with appropriate gaskets and rtv....

after letting the rtv 'dry' (about 48 hours) i filled it with some Royal Purple gear oil...

havent had a chance to road test since the engine is currently getting work done, but i am confident it will hold up well

the before...


ill get an after pic later...
 

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I am going over the housing, smoothing welds, and wire brushing the exterior. Any tips on exterior prime and paint? How best to protect the primed front cover?
what do you mean by smooth the welds? are you going to grind them down? or are you just talking about cleaning up some of the spatter?

i sprayed this with two coats DP epoxy after media blasting, followed by two coats flattened single stage urethane. Two coats red DP on the third member and two coats red DP mixed with a little gray DP on the pinion support. the yoke has two coats DP followed by seymour's cast blast with a mist of dark charcoal metallic. the snubber is two coats DP followed by Rustoleum Stainless Steel. i think the "machined" surface was masked and sprayed with some high temp aluminum paint i had.

the paint on the brake line tabs fortunately didn't chip when bending in for the brake lines.




 

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Nice job buckeye, that looks really sharp! This may be a dumb question, but what is DP?
 

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If you don't have a gun, Rustoleum #7777 satin black works very well for housing. Takes a long time to dry but has held up very well over the years for me. For the chunk a lot of the cans tend to be more brown than red. The best I have found is a valspar at O'Reilly's. You'll have to do a clear satin over that to get a little sheen.
 

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I second the powdercoat on the housing. I got my housing stripped and powdercoated satin black for $125. It hasn't been put on the car yet, but so far when moving it around, etc. it's held up great.
 

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Rustoleum 7777 on the housing. Rustoleum "ruddy red" primer (something like that) for the pumpkin. Very close match. Topcoat primer with matte clear.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
I'm glad I started this thread as its producing some nice looking rear ends. http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/Smileys/default/naughty.gif

I am missing the pinion snubber and bracket. Should my 9" have that? Are those available in repo or? And where to get the copper washer and nut set?
 

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You guys are making me really anxious to get going on my rear end:

1957(ish) 9 inch:



I would like to sandblast it this spring. I will have to call around and see what it will cost for someone to blast and powdercoat the housing. $125 seems very reasonable for that service.
 

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You guys are making me really anxious to get going on my rear end:

1957(ish) 9 inch:



I would like to sandblast it this spring. I will have to call around and see what it will cost for someone to blast and powdercoat the housing. $125 seems very reasonable for that service.
I agree, I was very pleased with the price. This came from a highly respected company as well, so I think you should be able to find something in that same ballpark. I'll try to post a pic of the powdercoated housing tonight to give you an idea of what it looks like. It's a '57-'59 rear end as well.
 
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