Vintage Mustang Forums banner
1 - 20 of 24 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Need help trying to figure out of I just need to beat the bend back in place or if I have to replace the whole subframe or just the rear section, was told it was wreck they put a new quarter panel on but looks like they didn't stretch the frame out
Automotive tire Tread Tire Grey Wood
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'd spend some money on sheet metal and a welder and do the best you can if it drives okay. Otherwise, replace all of it.
It drives great it just sits lower by and inch, inch and half, enough to tell it's leaning when driver is in car, but I know the leaf springs haven't been replaced
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,223 Posts
That is one messed up framerail. I would replace the entire thing...its supposed to look like this:



That huge kink behind the bump-stop calls the integrity of the entire rear unibody into question. You might be able to get away with patching, but I would replace the entire thing and look at the other side as well
 
  • Like
Reactions: 66Stangster

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That is one messed up framerail. I would replace the entire thing...its supposed to look like this:



That huge kink behind the bump-stop calls the integrity of the entire rear unibody into question. You might be able to get away with patching, but I would replace the entire thing and look at the other side as well
I have thought about replacing to entire frame rail my main concern would it throwing off the quarter panel that was installed on the car prior to me getting or the rear frame
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,223 Posts
I have thought about replacing to entire frame rail my main concern would it throwing off the quarter panel that was installed on the car prior to me getting or the rear frame
The quarter panel does not touch the frame rail. The frame rail attaches to the trunk floor and the hump section that goes over the rear axle. It looks like you have other rust damage back there in the trunk floor as well. I am not sure how much time and money you want to invest in the car, but to be solid you would want to to rebuild the rear sheet metal entirely. I replaced everything back there on mine except for the frame rails and the rear hump floor section, it took about a week's worth of worth and about $1000 in sheet metal(quarters, wheel houses, trunk floor, tail panel, etc) and welding supplies. If you pay someone else it would cost significantly more. Its possible though for you that the only thing you would need to replace is the floor and frame rails though and you might be able to get away with leaving the rest depending on the condition of the metal. Chances are with that frame rail as is your leaf spring rear mounting point is pushed significantly forward doing all kinds of bad things to the suspension,
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
I think someone with more experience needs to look at that car to see what, if anything can be done to fix it. That damage and rust in that one picture sure doesn't look promising.

Replacing sheetmetal and structural frame sections is not a job for a novice even on a perfectly square undamaged car. It's a whole 'nother ballgame when the car has been hit hard and has to be squared up first. Very few people have the tools or ability to do that properly in their home garage. That one picture is not nearly enough to judge what that car needs, but that kink makes it look like that car was hit hard from behind, which would affect the taillight panel, quarter panel and trunk floor fitment. If a new quarter panel was installed after the fact, but that frame damage was not repaired, it's almost guaranteed the rear of that car is not at all square, so installing new sheetmetal as-is will be impossible. The car needs to be straightened out and squared up or trying to install new sheetmetal or frame sections will just be an exercise in futility.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The quarter panel does not touch the frame rail. The frame rail attaches to the trunk floor and the hump section that goes over the rear axle. It looks like you have other rust damage back there in the trunk floor as well. I am not sure how much time and money you want to invest in the car, but to be solid you would want to to rebuild the rear sheet metal entirely. I replaced everything back there on mine except for the frame rails and the rear hump floor section, it took about a week's worth of worth and about $1000 in sheet metal(quarters, wheel houses, trunk floor, tail panel, etc) and welding supplies. If you pay someone else it would cost significantly more. Its possible though for you that the only thing you would need to replace is the floor and frame rails though and you might be able to get away with leaving the rest depending on the condition of the metal. Chances are with that frame rail as is your leaf spring rear mounting point is pushed significantly forward doing all kinds of bad things to the suspension,
The rust on trunk did worry me at first but top side is rust free and the spots where I sanded where just dirt and surface rust I have cleaned up the dirt and rust as much as possible and sprayed Rust-Oleum stop rust and rubber coating on it that was couple years ago so I would have peace at mind while driving car I'm just to point I'm ready to finish body and pain car worst case I'll do the whole rail the passenger side is unbent
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Here a pic of car as it sits now sorry I have bumper cut off but it fit correct LY other than the mount was reweld to far back on driver side so had to get longer bolts
Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
7,239 Posts
When I bought my '65 over 25 years ago, I took it to the best body men I knew and asked them what it would take to make it right.

They told me to get what I could for it and find another car.

I'm telling you the same thing now.

I ignored them BTW and am still working on mine. Feel free to ignore me too.

If you want a project to work on for the next couple of decades though, I think you found it. If (based on your user name) you're a young guy that needs safe, reliable, fun transportation....there's a better car out there for you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
When I bought my '65 over 25 years ago, I took it to the best body men I knew and asked them what it would take to make it right.

They told me to get what I could for it and find another car.

I'm telling you the same thing now.

I ignored them BTW and am still working on mine. Feel free to ignore me too.

If you want a project to work on for the next couple of decades though, I think you found it. If (based on your user name) you're a young guy that needs safe, reliable, fun transportation....there's a better car out there for you.
The trunk pan is sturdy actually not as much rust as you think just ****ty patch work, bought it as first car back in 2010 been driving it since, trying to slowly make into a dailyish car just trying make sure the frame it self isn't to ****ed up to have to replace whole thing was hoping to see if anyone had this use andwas able to just beat it and weld a frame around it
 

·
Registered
67 Fastback T5 331 TCI Frt End, Canted 4 link rear susp
Joined
·
1,491 Posts
Your frame is bent enough to cause the car to sit lower on one side. The quarter panel was replaced without the sub-structure being properly corrected. Everyone has given similar good advise here...good luck.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,294 Posts
I really don't see any clean metal there you could weld to safely. This is one of those rabbit holes many of us, myself included just see my link below, got into once we started chipping away. Given the rocker, lower fender and your underside picture.... there's much more rust where that came from.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Your frame is bent enough to cause the car to sit lower on one side. The quarter panel was replaced without the sub-structure being properly corrected. Everyone has given similar good advise here...good luck.
That's what I thought when I first got it but took a sander and few weight it was surface rust except in a few spots that can be patched
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
306 Posts
That roof and C-pillar are absolutely loaded up with bondo. I'd be concerned that all the seams and joints between panels are as well. That poor car has lived a hard life. If the car drives straight now, I'd thank your lucky stars and just drive it. Don't go digging too deep into it, you'll very likely make it much worse as you uncover hidden issues and find that it needs serious rust repair and other work. Sometimes it's better to just work within the limitations of what you have and fix the minor stuff and just drive it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
829 Posts
That's what I thought when I first got it but took a sander and few weight it was surface rust except in a few spots that can be patched
I sense that you are trying to convince yourself that overall, it is not that bad. Honestly, I think it is beyond bad.
 
  • Like
Reactions: JAG Sarge

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Theres no rust frees ones unless restored in my area and this car means alot to me my dad bought for me as my first car as project for us back in highschool, along with both of my grandfathers have helped me along the way restoring her back to what she was I'm just trying to get the most out her and make her last for years to come to come. The that represents alot to me to become a donor so that's definitely not an option everything else has been restored, I came on this forum to ask for advice in repairing the as best as possible and most you all have basic to me to throw something that cherish away instead of giving me decent advice. The ones that didn't give advice thank you I commend you but see these comments I will not ask for advice again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
451 Posts
That does seem like a whole lot of work to get it back to new or new metal
It all can be done
Might be easier to buy another car and sell that one
However you own that one
If you sell it someone else will just fix it
Mabey you should fix it paint it and then sell it
Learn to weld
Take a body class in college
 
1 - 20 of 24 Posts
Top