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Discussion Starter #1
Yes, I said slicing. To make a long story short, I swapped out the newer standard eye 4 leaf springs/KYBs combo to TCP 4-1/2 reverse eye leaf springs with Bilsteins. Rides wonderful and handles fantastic, EXCEPT...I have nasty tire rub on my warped rear quarter (long story, but my driver's side quarter got popped out just after restoration when the car was loaded down for luggage and bottomed out). Nasty as in I have shredded pieces of tire tread hanging off my tire. We attempted to remedy this by grinding down the lip and smoothing the edge to no avail, obviously.

The car now is just about level, measuring only .5" higher at the rear pinch weld. BEFORE the swap it was 3". I have a 2" tire-to-quarter gap, where before it was over 4"...so the springs dropped the rear of the car over 2-1/2". I do NOT want to create a reverse rake, but at the same time, the rear end bottoms out over any kind of semi-large bump or dip. Even though it's mostly a track car, it would be nice to just drive the car on non-perfect roads without shredding tires.

I guess my only options are to swap mid-eye 4-1/2 leafs in, as I believe rear Bilsteins only come in one "tune". That should lift the rear up about 1", making it no longer level (dammit, I was really enjoying the better handling). Rolling the quarters isn't really advised, since the paint is 3-some years old and will most likely crack, and it's not a guarantee it won't bottom out again.

Advice? What would you do?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Sorry...rears are 245/50/16. The rear axle snubber is still present and in good shape. I can’t afford to narrow the rear end, either....just got a new TruTrac installed and was breaking it in when the shredding started. 😞

I *could* get narrower tires & wheels...but I am looking for the most cost-effective solution...wheels are north of $225/ea and tires are about the same. A new set of springs is $400.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
IIRC, back spacing was 5.5” on the rears, but I’ll have to double check. I have a Wildwood disc conversion on the rears to add to the clearance equation.
Pic of the “carnage” attached.
 

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The tires on my 67 were like that when I got it from the p.o.
The rear disc conversion definitely is no help. I ordered new wheels and now have 18x9.5 in back with 6.75" backspacing and zero clearance issues.
 

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Sorry...rears are 245/50/16. The rear axle snubber is still present and in good shape.
Mount something on top of the axle under those snubbers, so they stop the axle before the tires hits the fender. No.. it won't make the car handle better, but it's a cheap hillbilly solution, that stop you from destroying your tires and fenders. The real solution are different wheels, narrowing the axle or wider fenders.
 

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Couple of thoughts,

- I would probably start by grinding/filing the lip of the fender down a little, look for a sharp point that is doing the shredding. there should be tire shred over where it is happening

- if it is happening when you corner, you have the perfect excuse to consider a Watts link or Panhard bar, if your that close a watts link may be a better choice since the panhard rod works in an arc whereas the Watts link keeps the axle centered all the time. If you are really hanging you're car, you will love a Watts...

- Add or subtract a 1/4" on your backspacing - I forget which and am too lazy to look it up, you can do it for just the rears or in stages


- Push comes to shove, if dressing the edge a little doesn't work, I would keep things as they are and roll the fenders, then take the car to the shop and have them repair any damage. Its the right answer to keep the width of the axle, keep the wheels and tires and I bet it would'nt be that expensive to fix, maybe have them do it. New paint is easy to match and won't fade differently like repairing old paint. Its a small repair with the crack likely facing downward. Likely cheaper than any other option we discussed on this thread. Worth getting a quote.
 

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Did the original fender damage happen before or after the new springs ? It sounds like before?
You really need to narrow the axle or get wheels with more backspace, but dobro's suggestion is a good one. My truck with big tires rubs all the time, but all contact areas are smooth and rounded, so there's never any tire damage, just a disturbing noise !
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I should clarify, sorry...been a long week:
1) Driver’s side quarter is a repop as the original was rusted out. Its dimensions are not the same as the passenger side...but I never worried about it because you can’t see both sides at once to compare.
2) Original damage was done with the 4 leaf standard eyes/KYB combo and a fully loaded trunk.
3) The original incident “made” me install a Fays2 Watts link. No further issues until I swapped out the springs & shocks.
4) The latest damage was caused by going over a bump, straight on, at about 30mph.
5) Paint is late-model VW, and while not impossible, it would be prohibitively expensive to replace the quarter and repaint. The color has an extreme amount of pearl.
6) We did grind down the edges of the quarter, before this latest incident.

As of right now, the car isn’t street driveable without causing more damage. It makes me nauseous just to see what’s already happened 😞. I do want to mount my GoPro and see exactly what’s going on...but that entails possibly causing more damage. To be clear...I’m not so concerned about tire damage, but only about body damage.

I’ll measure the backspace today.
 

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Could you post a larger version of your signature pic. I did a Photoshop enlargement to get a better idea of the relationship of your tire to sheetmetal relationship. It appears that the sidewall is outboard of the wheel lip, placing the shoulder directly under the wheel lip. It may just be the angle of that picture. A couple more shots of the tire and sheetmetal would be helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I’ll try to find some more, but this is the only one I have at the moment. I purposely try to avoid taking pics of that side.

Oh and the best I can measure is 4” backspacing. Which seems kinda small to me?
 

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6) We did grind down the edges of the quarter, before this latest incident.
I do want to mount my GoPro and see exactly what’s going on...but that entails possibly causing more damage.
It's so hard to diagnose without seeing the car first hand, but there must still be an edge somewhere to cause those cuts. If you're going to stick with you're current combination of parts, you'll have to diagnose further. You could also put the old springs back on. I assume the Watts link is centered, and not pulling the axle to one side ? There's just not many ways to fix this without spending some money.
 

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Roll fender lips. Might not stop the rub, but should stop the slicing.
 
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