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Discussion Starter #1
Went to move the '68 coupe today, push it a few feet to make some room. Wouldn't budge. Nearing completion of restoration, not running but drivetrain in. Checked trans for neutral, brakes, etc, nada. Pulled driveshaft. Still won't move.

Jacked it up and tried to spin the tires. Nope. Pulled the rear tires. All OK. Replaced the wheels and no go, the rear drums are jamming against the backplate. Put some washers in as spacer to check and with a ~3/32" washer between the drum and face of the plate that holds the studs all is fine.

Stock rear housing, new true-trac and bearings, all else OEM, brake shop says drums are fine...

How do I fix it ????
 

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Maybe the axles are sliding in further into the new 3rd member than they should? Still have proper clearance from drum edge to backing plate?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
On the axle, thought of that, but how do you fix it?

Other one was, is the new axle bearing too thin or the retainer on the shaft positioned wrong? I would guess that is what drives the depth of the axle but really don't want to take it all apart again before getting some tips...

Shoes are "stock" size from NPD. Will check them tomorrow (late here in Oz! Done for the night) against the old ones that came off it. Good suggestion! Didn't think of that one!
 

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Did you replace the brake shoes in the rear? I replaced mine a few months ago with shoes that were 1/4" too wide, wheels wouldn't spin.

+1 brake shoes. 390 engine lists 1 3/4" and 2" wide shoes. The small block shows only the 1 3/4". Yet another reason why the small block is better! JK
 

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sounds like a break shoe problem. when i was installing my aftermarket ones i got deaper drums and the front shoes compared to the back shoes their is a huge diffrence. are the shoe sizes the same on the front and the back because i believe the fronts should be bigger.
 

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My Answer

To My Friend Down-Under...

I don't mean to be a Smartass, LOL, but usually when "Rear Tires Won't Spin After They Are Installed, It means the little 6 cylinder 200, needs replaced with a K-Code 289.

I Know, I know, too many comedians unemployed for me to be acting like one.

Have a good day

:)
Bryan CobbRear tires won't spin after installing...
 

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Have you tried to spin the rear wheels with the rear off the ground to make sure it's not just when it's on the ground? Also may want to take the drums off and mount the wheels only to the axles and see if they will spin. That way you can rule out a brake binding problem.
 

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Have you tried to spin the rear wheels with the rear off the ground to make sure it's not just when it's on the ground? Also may want to take the drums off and mount the wheels only to the axles and see if they will spin. That way you can rule out a brake binding problem.
That's what I as going to suggest as well. Take off the drums, if you can get them off, and see if the axles will spin. At least that way you can rule out the brake pads or a stuck emergency brake.
 

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(actually Slim Jr now)
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To My Friend Down-Under...

I don't mean to be a Smartass, LOL, but usually when "Rear Tires Won't Spin After They Are Installed, It means the little 6 cylinder 200, needs replaced with a K-Code 289.

I Know, I know, too many comedians unemployed for me to be acting like one.

Have a good day

:)
Bryan CobbRear tires won't spin after installing...

AFAIK this is a fully restored big block 68 Stang. I believe he's checking things before applying 300+ hp to it!
 

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Try re-reading op guys, do spin with wheel off and drum spaced out alittle.

I had the same problem when I order some new drums from one of the mail order catalogs, can't remember which one. On mine the drum wasn't machined deep enough so the sides of the linings hit the shoulder on the inside of the drum.

Check that your shoes are the right width, but if you have original drums try those as well.

Nate
 

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Try re-reading op guys, do spin with wheel off and drum spaced out alittle.

I had the same problem when I order some new drums from one of the mail order catalogs, can't remember which one. On mine the drum wasn't machined deep enough so the sides of the linings hit the shoulder on the inside of the drum.

Check that your shoes are the right width, but if you have original drums try those as well.

Nate
I believe he said he bought new brake shoes. More than one has suggested they come in 2 or 3 widths for 68. May be too wide. He's "down under" so said he'll check/compare with original shoes tomorrow which is now today!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
With the rear jacked up and the driveshaft disconnected from the diff, e-brake cable removed, the rears would not spin. Loosend lugs, then they freed up, shimmed the drums with washers, retightened, spin freely.

Pulled the tires/drums today, 2" pads. So looks like I need the 1 3/4"...

Thanks for the tips that led me in the right direction...
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Well... that was scary.

Looked on a few websites and determined the 1 3/4" were the go. At 3:45 decided to run up to the local parts shop, close at 4. Usually if I arive 5-10 minutes before closing... they've closed early. Open...

Showed 'em the old shoes, looked up some 60's era Oz 9" rear drums. Go to the back with the counter guy. In stock. Same price as in the NPD catalog (usually Mustang parts here run 50-100% more for some reason).

Get home strip the 2", notice I had reveresed the auto-adjusters on the intial install, get it all back together.

So now it is just after 5 pm, enjoying a cool brew (90-ish and humid as heck here in Brisbane) and the job is done.... if only they all went that well!
 
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