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1,093 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm in a position of having to replace the drivers side rear frame rail and torque box. Have never ever thought of having to tackle this type of project and would like some imput about where to start. Drop the differential first? Remove the tail light panel? I have the left 1/4skin off and the left trunk floor ( except that portion that is under the bumper backet). Where do I support the car while this is being done? ARGGGGGHHH. (Its OK take a deep breath and relax) Thanx in advance.

66 Coupe, Sauterne Gold (aka goose sh** green) rust bucket
order arrive....wait....look at parts...wait....scratch crotch...wait....look at rust bucket...sigh...scratch again<P ID="edit"><FONT SIZE=-1>Edited by STR8SIX on 04/14/01 10:28 AM (server time).</FONT></P>

I've not done this before however my first priority in a job like this would be getting reference measurements of the position of the original frame. Maybe consider building an alignment jig which is attached to the other frame rail. The shop manual shows all the frame alignment measurements, maybe those would help. Just keep this in mind before removing it.
I don't know how bad the original rail is. Sometimes it's more pratical to repair an existing part to maintain the original alignment. For example if it's rusted in the lower torque box area and also near the rear bumper area then maybe it's better to repair only those areas then ripping the whole thing out. That's something to consider too.
From the work I've done on the floor above the rear torque box, it's going to be quite a job getting that out. The floor probably has to be cut out and removed in the area of the torque box. At the rear the frame is welded to the trunk cross member. Drilling the spot welds out should get it removed from there and also all along the floor. The brackets which hold the bumper on will need to be removed too. I would suspect if the car is that rusty, the trunk cross member will be junk too. It's not that hard to replace, just more time.
It never ends does it. I started out with the intention of just replacing the motor and trans in my coupe. 2 years later I had replaced every bit of rust I could find except the cowling. That's why I say it's easy to get carried away with this and a lot of the time a good patch repair is all that is needed.


65 GT Coupe, dismantled waiting for resto.
67 Restomod Coupe, in assy.
69 Mach 1 S code, SWMBO say don't take it apart!
91 5.0 LX HB, driver.
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