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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I decided that I procrastinated long enough on my cheap taiwanese piece of junk repop rear valance. I cut the brackets off and rewelded them to suit my needs. I then welded on a couple sheetmetal duct "drives" to make it fit and finished it off with some All-Metal. It really did not take as long as I thought it would and IMHO, not a bad job :)

http://www.rileysdm.com/mustang/valance.jpg

At first, I was just going to be another "PO" and just tack the valance in place and go crazy with the bondo. But pride and common sense took over and I decided to do it right.
Everyday, my skill level increases a little.
 

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That is a great idea! I've been grinding to try to get the #@&^%#@& valance to fit right with minimal gaps. I think I'll try your idea. When I used the valance as it came, there was about a 3/4 to an inch gap on both sides after mounting. Thanks for sharing!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I had intended to take pics as I went along but was distracted by the kids playing (note band-aids on thumb and 2 fingers). The sheetmetal drives are thin enough to conform to the curve of the valance. I fit it all in place with 3 zoot screws (self tappers) on each side and welded the drive to the valance. Then, I cut the bracket and turned it 90* and welded it to where I needed it. The factory method provides a rectangular hole to fasten in. I could not use it so instead, I drilled a 1/4" hole into the lip where the quarter and trunk drop-off meet and welded a 1/4x20 nut on the outside. I can reach in and get the bolt tight from inside. I can take the valance off and take some pics tomorrow of the "hidden" work if you like.

[pat on back] If I do say so myself, It's not too bad for a beginner welder. [/pat on back]
 
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