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To start, both the rear valance and the rear quarters are Dynacorn. As can be seen in the photo, the corners do not fit. I originally thought it was the spot welded bracket on the back side of the valance holding it out, but it's the rear quarter to drop off pinch weld that is preventing this thing from even attempting to get close. Should I try to rework the valance to bring it closer in or simply add some sheet metal to the ends? The gap is about about a half inch. Sorry about the photo quality, it's difficult to hold the valance and take a photo at the same time.

 

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I had the same issue on mine, both sides, all Dynacorn parts. The drop off/quarter flange was too generous so I cut it back just enough to allow the valance to meet up. There's still an unsightly gap though even after that. Note the ends of the valance have extra material curled over to the inside. I carefully turned those back outwards as needed to extend both the overall width and depth of the valance, then worked them smooth to fit up. There's supposed to be a seam where the valance and quarter meet, you just need to lose those unsightly gaps.

Note: I looked at bunches of pictures of both original and professionally restored 67/68 mustangs that provided views of these areas. It amazed me how many fit poorly revealing huge gaps. These valances were intended to be removable without cutting them, but some folk use filler or weld and grind so there's no seam at all.
I just chose not to go that route myself. :smile2:
 

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Other than sticking out too far, does it look like the quarter to valance gap would be nice if the valence pushed into place? If so, I'd start by trimming back the pinch weld. That would be the easiest way to go.

If you go too far that it removes some of the welds on that seam, just tack it back and seal it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Other than sticking out too far, does it look like the quarter to valance gap would be nice if the valence pushed into place? If so, I'd start by trimming back the pinch weld. That would be the easiest way to go.

If you go too far that it removes some of the welds on that seam, just tack it back and seal it.
I trimmed the pinch weld so it's not touching the valance now, the side of the valance seems to line up with the lower quarter but there is still too large a gap to be presentable. Also the edge of the valance isn't formed correctly to match up with the quarter. I'm probably going to have to add some material to the ends and fill/smooth with my favorite filler.
 

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The after market stuff generally does make those pinch welds stick out too far for the rear valance to fit flush. It isn't a problem to grind them down as long as you have them welded inside where you grind to.



I also had to tweak those right angle tabs that are tacked on the valance so they would line up with the rear quarter retaining bolt through holes. I also tacked those bolts on to the valance once I got them adjusted right. They won't move and won't come loose now. I had to rotate those metal tabs some and also flatten them some to get the valance to fit flush on each end.


My valance also had the curled in lower corners so I gently straightened those to match the lines of the quarter panel.


If either or both those faces on your rear quarters where the valance mounts to have been wankered in the past you may have to tweak them some with the hammer and dolly as well. I had one that required some hammer work.



I also had to add metal to both ends of the rear valance to get a nice straight and acceptably tight gap line to the quarter panels but the line was still not completely parallel . I met the valance part way by adding a small edge of short strand fiberglass filler to the edge of the quarters where it meets up with the valance line. I only had to do this on the left side which is also the one I had to bang on with the hammer and dolly.


I considered welding the valance on but decided to not do that in the event I ever get a low tap back there and need to remove the valance and replace it. Then of course I'm dealing with another "custom" fit situation. I did keep those inner brackets for the bumper guards even though I'm not installing those. I might decide to later. I have a blacked out bolt(black car) in each of those holes. It does help add some strength to the valance and also pulls it up or lets it tuck up and in better so the line is straighter.



I am pretty happy with all that now after all the work it required to make the thing fit right.
 

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Is it too much to ask that somebody makes a valance from original dimensions so they fit? Geez...
 

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I had to buy 2 for my 66 to get a good one that was workable. Still had to weld rod on each and remove and relocate the brackets that bolt to the quarter. Also had to grind back the trunk drop off flange I mine were about 1.5" deep. Ground them down to roughly 5/8" inch.
 

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Is it too much to ask that somebody makes a valance from original dimensions so they fit? Geez...

I have aftermarket quarter panels and an original Ford valance on my '65 and I had all of these problems. Apparently the aftermarket quarters aren't up to speed.
 

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Is it too much to ask that somebody makes a valance from original dimensions so they fit? Geez...
I bought the "economy" rear valance from Mustangs Unlimited quite a few years back... it fit like a GLOVE. No tweaking, not welding, no filling...
 

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I have aftermarket quarter panels and an original Ford valance on my '65 and I had all of these problems. Apparently the aftermarket quarters aren't up to speed.
Good thing you didn't hafta use a repro valance too.
I'm not real impressed with any of the reproduction body parts.
 

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I bought the "economy" rear valance from Mustangs Unlimited quite a few years back... it fit like a GLOVE. No tweaking, not welding, no filling...
What luck !
 

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Mine was about 3/8" too wide, so I had to take a small slice out of it.
The brackets on the rear also stuck out a little too far, so I had to trim those down.
I probably could have made it work, but after spending so much time on the rest of the body, it just seemed lazy to let it go like that. :smile2:
 

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Is it too much to ask that somebody makes a valance from original dimensions so they fit? Geez...
The factory valance on my 1970 Mach 1 didn't fit well either. The replacement valance actually fit better than the factory valance, but I added some material at both ends to make it nice and snug.

There was a LOT off variance between cars back then. As 22GT points out, "No laser guided robots". If you have a Mustang with a valance that fits really well, you just got lucky.
 

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Check out Jo Daddys Garage on YouTube. He addresses this on the Brooklyn Pony build he is doing right now
 
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