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I have a 1967 Mustang coupe with a 289 4v. The car originally had a 289 2v, but that engine started to have some bad piston slap and bearing problems. I was able to get the used engine for $400 and swapped it out and haven't had a problem in the past 20,000, but now there is increasing oil consumption and blow by, and some ominous sounding clicking under the valve covers.

My question is how much time do I have on the 4v? and should I use that time to rebuild the 2v or buy a replacement motor. A local shop is advertising a rebuilt HP 302 delivered with a 7 year 70,000 mile guarantee for $855.

Money, time, reliability and what to do with the 2 leftover engines are all factors (not to mention the 1969 429 T-bird and the 1984 T-bird already on blocks in my yard as projects that haven't been finished yet)

I would love to hear suggestions,

Thanks,
Brian
 

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THat seems like a great deal on the 302. Hard to pass up that one. I typically would say rebuild the original engine, but you'll be hard pressed to do it for less than a grand.

I'd do the 302, and hang on to the 2v ( just to say you have the original engine if you want to sell the car someday).

my $02.

JJ
69 Fastback 302 2v 3sp. trans.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1605599&a=12251632&p=44630868.jpg
 

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Here's an idea: Since the 2V is already out of the car why not rebuild it's bottom end and use the 4V heads on it? Get a valve job and new seals on the 4V heads and you'll have your 4V motor again since the 2V and 4V blocks are the same. This way you'll only have 1 motor lying around and a little more reliability I think than the 70,000 mile warranty motor (which probably won't last much longer than 70k) would give you.

Black primer 66 coupe, bench seat, 68 302-2V, C-4, 3.55 TSD
879 posts as "66 bench-coupe" on old VMF
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I was faced a couple months ago with the same situation, but did not have someone to do a motor for under a grand. I opted to rebuild myself after spinning a rod bearing. had to pull the motor and ended up spending around 3 grand. Tomorrow, I get my mustang back from the SECOND engin in a year. This time I opted to have the shop build me a custom 302 roller motor (1995 block) for exactly my driving purpose. Anyway, it'll run me another 3 grand, but I know it will last longer than if I did it, plus this guy's been doing this for 40 years and I trust this motor will last. /forums/images/icons/smile.gif
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Marty

66 Convertible, red w/ white top, new 302 roller motor, Ebrock 1406 & Performer Intake
99 Expedition - Custom
90 Caravan - my pick-up with seats
 

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IMHO I would opt for the HP 302 with the warranty. I don't know what your driving habits are with your car, but I'd see 7 years before 70000 miles on my stangs. I would keep the 2V as others have suggested, just to have the original engine, and sell the 4V for whatever you can get out of it. And that's my $.02 worth.
 

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Sorry to say this but you can't rebuild a small block at cost with good parts in a machine shop for $855. The HP in there is meaningless hype. Either that or its a steam cleaner special. These are motors that dudes will steam clean and blow some Krylon on and sell as rebuilts. The waranty is most likely worthless too. They will come back and say you over-rev'd it, ran it dry of oil or water or some other thing. One of my personal favorites for a smoker is "you ran it too rich and washed down the cylinder walls".

A cheap but decent short block is around $1000 and a set of rebuilt stock heads runs around $500. You can get by a little less with your old cores for trade in($200 or so). That is still generally cheaper than if you pay for the machine work and build the motor yourself. Even at that price the motor is just a stocker. It won't have performance rings or bearings, just old cast pistons, stock puny cam, no double roller, none of the good stuff. Just a plain old low performance stock motor.



You can see my 65 fastback at: http://hottarod.stangnet.com/
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