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Discussion Starter #1
So it has come time, in my Dad's eyes, to rebuild my 1965 Mustang. I'm now in college and have his truck because the car engine went south in the latter part of last year, but he needs/wants the truck back so, over spring break, we got started.

There are several things I need to do before bringing it back to college in Birmingham, AL. I have to make sure the locks work correctly, ever since the guy painted the car I've had trouble with the driver side lock sticking when locked and the door handle button is pushed from outside the car, ideas how to fix?. Also since paint my headlights like to flicker (or sometimes go out), I'm supposing that I just need to solder the wires back b/c they were just spliced during paint, again ideas? Those are two main safety needs so what follows is more about rebuilding the engine itself. Oh and the fuel gauge has never worked, I need to check the old unit first, but is there any way to clean a sending unit?

Ok so we have the engine stripped, pulled, and sent it to a machine shop. The shop is boring for pistons .40 over (the walls were etched badly), rod/main bearings are going to be .10 (a couple of the mains were scored), and the guy sent the crank to be turned. So I've bought a rebuild kit from RPM Machines for the inline 6 (includes everything). Hopefully the rebuild process will start next week.

The other things to be done are to help the car drive/run better. There's always been a terrible vibration in the car from the day we bought it. Come to find out the harmonic balancer is worn so that is getting replaced, the flex plate on the transmission was loose when removed and broken at bolt holes, and the torque converter's flywheel is worn so these will be replaced. Also going to put a new front seal on tranny.

Next will be trying to get the car running smoothly. This is one of my less solid avenues right now. The carb needs to be rebuilt and I'm going to buy a kit (should I change floats?) and I either need 1) a new vacuum advance and the vacuum line for it (where can I get this if it has the screw-in vacuum line?) or 2) a new distributor (the car has never run perfectly and the distributor was very oily when we pulled the cap after trying to start the car from resting several months). I want electronic ignition, but that can wait since warmer weather is coming. Also I'm wondering if a new PCV valve could help and where is that located on my car (I think its on the front of the valve cover)?

So I realize this post is hella long, but I just wanted some input (besides swapping to v8). To recap, here's my current parts list: I6 rebuild kit, torque converter, flex plate, harmonic balancer, exhaust gasket, carb kit, and water pump.

Some pics are here Mobile Uploads | Facebook
 

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fix then report back

Hi,
Yes it's a long comment with many different questions, some of which, you answered. So, my advice, is get it all together drive to determine what issues surface, then, report back.
Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Fair enough. Ok so let me just wittle down to three questions. 1) Can the old sending unit be cleaned and possibly back to working? 2) Where can I get the vacuum line with special ends or an adapter to just use rubber line? 3) Where is the PCV valve?
 

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Consider a new lock kit. They'll run you about $45 and you get 2 new door locks, a new trunk lock, a new ignition, and 2 keys of course.

I'd say get a new sending unit to be safe. I guess you could use the old one but I doubt it'll be reliable. Also make sure your gas tank is in good condition and has no rust or other problems.

As for the headlights, you'll want to trace all your wiring. Check the fuses and check the voltage limiter. I'm not sure how similar they are but my '87 jeep had the lights do the same; flicker a few times and go completely out. It was the headlight switch resister completely burnt out.

Definitely change the float when you rebuild the carb. It's a few bucks extra and it would suck to do the whole carb rebuild and have the old float ruin your work.
Can't help on the other two questions.

As for an ignition, get the Ford Pertronix ignition system. Outdoes MSD anyday if you ask me, unless you're I6 is gonna make like 700+ horsepower. :D

It's cool to see you're sticking with the I6 and boring it out. Should be a nice I6 with some power to it! :)

Oh and I like your car's paint! That silver looks very cool!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I bought a new lock when I first got the car and thats what I'm having trouble with. If you've ever dealt with one there's a little clip that's supposed to connect the rod at the bottom. Well the old one broke and I never really could find the right clip so the paint guy used some epoxy (I think) to connect it, but I don't know what's causing the bind other than that.

Will definitely check out the tank first. I figured that a new unit was probably the only way to go, but if I can save $$ I'm fine with that too.

Are there even fuses in these cars. I swear I've been through this cars electrical system when installing speakers and things and have never run across fuses, any idea where they might be?

Thank you for the help and compliment. Oh and you don't think I can make 700HP by boring .40 over......haha :p
 

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Hi.
Regarding:
"Are there even fuses in these cars. I swear I've been through this cars electrical system when installing speakers and things and have never run across fuses, any idea where they might be?"

Yes, the fuse block is located on the driver side, just above the kick panel, near where the dash meets the door jamb. It's PIT to get to and service. I find it easier to service through removing the two screws attaching it and let it hang down a bit.
You might get lucky by removing and cleaning the tank sending unit.
Also, you should get a 66 shop manual. It'll be extremely helpful going forward.
Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok so I came home for the weekend to get started rebuilding the engine, but have a serious headache now..... Ok so we bought a new harmonic balancer to replace the worn one. Problem is the old one (original?) is a 4 bolt pattern and the new one is a 3 bolt pattern. It looks like I need this one (Damper Doctor Online: FORD 170/200 C.I.), but the one on there and the one we bought appear to be for a small block. Could this cause problems? If no, where can I find a 3 bolt crank pulley that isn't very deep?
 

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Ok so I came home for the weekend to get started rebuilding the engine, but have a serious headache now..... Ok so we bought a new harmonic balancer to replace the worn one. Problem is the old one (original?) is a 4 bolt pattern and the new one is a 3 bolt pattern. It looks like I need this one (Damper Doctor Online: FORD 170/200 C.I.), but the one on there and the one we bought appear to be for a small block. Could this cause problems? If no, where can I find a 3 bolt crank pulley that isn't very deep?

Hi,
Have you not checked the well known Mustang supply houses for your damper? Since you hail from the east coast, check NPD.
Good Luck!
 

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IMO locking one of these cars is a bad idea. I can get into one with a coat hanger in about 15 seconds even with the "smooth" lock knob. All you are doing is encouraging somebody to break your window.

Just don't ever leave something valuable looking in the car. Put it in the trunk.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Hi,
Have you not checked the well known Mustang supply houses for your damper? Since you hail from the east coast, check NPD.
Good Luck!
I don't remember looking at NPD, but we did check Mustangs Unlimited (its in GA) and if they had it, it was really expensive. I'm just confused as to which it should be. The balancer with the pulley already on it or the one that uses an attachable pulley? I don't think the belts would line up if I get the supposed correct one.

As far as locking the car, I totally agree and I won't be keeping valuables in sight. Its just a fact that if I lock the door and somebody hits the know trying to be a jerk then I have to crawl in the passenger's side for some reason
 

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Head lights flickering and shutting off generally indicate a bad headlight switch. The switch will overheat and turn off for a few seconds then come back on.
 

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I looked in the MU and NPD cat. The harmonic balancer each show for the 200 six looks the same. It's 3 bolt with belt groove. They cost about $95. The 4 bolt one that you say is on your engine could be for most any V8. Three and four bolt balancers are shown for V8. The only one with a pulley groove is three bolt for the 200 six.

Having a V8 damper on your 200 six may be causing a bad vibration and if the wrong damper may be damaging the front main bearing of the engine!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
My dad and I have been discussing this. I think you are correct and somebody did a number on this car before we bought it. It's always had a bad vibration and that could very well have caused it, but we'd always thought it to be the torque converter.

So riddle me this. If we return this balancer and get the correct one I feel fairly sure that the water pump and crank pulley will be well out of line, how should I counter this?

Thank you guys so much for the help. Y'all have always been a great place to ask questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I feel like an idiot right now. Went to check the casting numbers and the head is a 1978, block is 1978, and exhaust manifold is 1977. Explains why there are all kinds of bent tubes that are likely for emissions....... What carb would I have in this case? It says "Mfd By Carter for Motorcraft" or something to that note. This also points me to the right balancer....we should've checked this before.

Gonna get you guys some pics pretty soon of all the stuff back from machine shop and hopefully somewhat assembled. Also we have a question about the head. There is one special rocker arm support, does it go opposite the end where oil enters? I have a pic if it would help.
 

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So I feel like an idiot right now. Went to check the casting numbers and the head is a 1978, block is 1978, and exhaust manifold is 1977. Explains why there are all kinds of bent tubes that are likely for emissions....... What carb would I have in this case? It says "Mfd By Carter for Motorcraft" or something to that note. This also points me to the right balancer....we should've checked this before.

Gonna get you guys some pics pretty soon of all the stuff back from machine shop and hopefully somewhat assembled. Also we have a question about the head. There is one special rocker arm support, does it go opposite the end where oil enters? I have a pic if it would help.
The exhaust manifold is probably correct. Ford didn't always change casting numbers to reflect a new model year if the previous years casting was still functional.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Today was interesting, as usual. Finally got the bottom end of the engine together (cam, crank, timing, water pump, oil pan and components) and pistons installed. Most of the day was spent in an attempt to find a woodruff key for the crank and dowel for the cam. And a good portion was in questioning how the cam went in because we could never get the timing gear on and it rotating; turns out the original cam had a washer on the end that we had to remove the dowel to get to. After that things went smoothly. Painted the oil pan, but then the wind kicked up too much to hit the valve covers.

Now we just have to wait on the correct harmonic balancer to get here and we can get the engine fairly complete. And then, after hours of struggle and head scratching problems, we will drop the engine in haha.

Still need to know for sure about the rocker arm support question from above as well as what carb this is. So if you want to follow along I am keeping pics updated here Mobile Uploads | Facebook
 

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I'll be pulling the 200 I6 out of my wife's 65 Conv this summer to do some work on the engine bay and front frame rails. I've pulled the 289 out of my coupe several times. It's been and I've only installed a I6 in a 67 Mustang when I changed over a trashed 289 Auto to a 200 I6 with 3 speed. I haven't determined if I'm going to do anything with the engine yet. May change the pistons to flat tops to gain some extra power.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Checked the fuses and there isn't a headlight fuse (I don't think). The fuse box was labeled Accessory, Dome Light, Cigarette Lighter, Instrument Panel, and Heater. Interestingly enough none of this stuff has ever worked correctly besides the accessories and instrument panel. Might as well change the fuses though, that should be relatively inexpensive. I guess next is fixing the wiring for good and then headlight switch and dimmer switch (my bet is on this).
 

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IIRC headlites have a built in circuit breaker in the headlight switch.
 
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