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Discussion Starter #1
I've read posts and the books that talk about how unlikely it is to be able to remove the bearing nuts on the upper control arm without destroying the threads on the UCA. Well, we took off our UCA's over the weekend and they just didn't look to awful. With a little effort with a breaker bar, the nuts came off just fine and nothing looks damaged -- but -- the threads on both the UCA and the bearing nut don't look very deep. Is that the way they are made? They do seem to match and neither part seems more worn than the other. Or has it worn down somehow over the years? Anybody have experience with this stuff?

Planned on buying the new UCA's but, if these can be used I'd rather save the $100+. Also, I read on some post that the new UCA's are made a little thinner metal -- is that true and something to consider?

thanks all. . .

-Rogman
 

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The threads on the UCAs and the bushing nuts are very shallow as you assume. This is one reason they are usually not salvagable because corrosion usually destroys them totally over the years and the minute you separate them you have no threads for reassembly. You are fortunate and it sounds like your UCAs might be rebuildable as were mine.
 

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If you are doing a concours job, you will want to rerivet the new ball joints back in or it's points off.
 

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As already mentioned, and as you have seen, the threads are not very deep. I've never really had a problem removing them.

I haven't noticed any difference in metal thickness from the repros and the originals that I've used. Drilling out the ball joint rivets can be a bit of a pain, and extreme care must be taken when re-installing the shaft and it's bushings, to insure that the shaft is centered.
 

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After getting a set of crappy loooking repros, I decided to rebuild my originals. The threads in the UCA's were stripped when assembled at the factory in 1964. This was a design flaw. The threads on the shafts are so much bigger and don't match the thread per inch count on the arms that as the nut screws onto the shaft it will strip the outer threads on the arms. The torque spec is also way too high for the wimpy fine threads on the outer nuts. Make a block of wood to fit between the arms, center the shafts and torque away. Some people suggest spot welding the nuts when finished. A good idea, but I didn't do it and mine are working fine 4 years later. Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys! That's great, a simple $100 savings! Also, FWIW, mine have bolted on ball joints -- not rivets. Ya figure that means they've already been replaced sometime?

Anyway, great to hear.

Thanks,
-Rogman
 

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If the ball joints are bolted on then they have been replaced sometime during the cars life but it is almost 40 years old! That saves you the work of trying to get the original rivets out.
 

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Thanks guys! That's great, a simple $100 savings! Also, FWIW, mine have bolted on ball joints -- not rivets. Ya figure that means they've already been replaced sometime?
Yup. That's what it means.
 
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