[Guest]

I just put the carb I rebuilt on the car. I go to fire it up and after a few stalls I go and check the engine compartment. There's gas all over the intake manifold. I know you guys will give me plenty of things to check so can you give me the typical ones that happen to a first time carb rebuilder first.

I don't have a helper right now and it's pouring rain outside and I'm already soaked to the bone so I probably won't be able to better isolate where the leak is coming from right away.

Thanks in advance. Everyone here is great.

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[KeenBean]

I would check the float level, My guess is the needle valve is stuck open or is being held open by the float and gas is running out of the top of the vent tubes. Did your rebuilt kit come with a float gauge?

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[Guest]

Float guage? I don't think so. There was a small paper ruler and directions saying the top of the float should be 1/8 inch from the top of the bowl. I

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[KeenBean]

Yeah thats the gauge, There is different ways to measure this as in wet or dry. How did you set it to 1/8 inch from the top of the bowl? That seems a little high to me, I would set it a little lower and see what does for the problem. Are you using a stock style pump?

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[Guest]

They gave a picture showing where to measure it from. I didn't do any kind of wet measurement (but I'm sure I will now that everythings soaked). I'll lower it a bit. What are the consequences of putting it too low? Will I run the bowl dry or can the feul pump keep up even at WOT?

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[camachinist]

Did any gas continue to leak out of the carb after you shut the engine off?

Probably float/needle related but could be damaged power valve gasket or accelerator pump diaphragm gasket, if on an Autolite 2V or 4V....

Was there any more fuel at the front of the manifold than back?

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[Guest]

It's an Auotolite 2100. The gas stopped when I stopped trying to start the car. The spill is more towards the fromt of the carb

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[camachinist]

Well, there's the obvious float/needle problem, then there could also be the fuel inlet to consider....

Those would be the two areas I'd focus my attention....

Did you get gas running down into the engine through the venturis? IOW, did the engine flood out?

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[Guest]

I thought I flooded it. It stalled a few times and I knew I gave it too much gas trying to start it again so I figured it was flooded then I went to look under the hood and found the puddles of gas.

I'll adjust the float first and go from there. I'll put it lower than it should be and check for leaks again.

Thanks Keen Bean and Camachinist!

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[Midlife]

Probably the float levels. There are two measurements: dry and wet. Often times the instructions don't say which is which. The Ford Shop Manual has the right specs. If yours is a 66, let me know, and I'll give you the info (I'll need carb number/designation). If you set it up when dry to wet specs, it will overflow, giving you gas all over everything. 1/8" below top of case is waaaaayyyy to high!

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[Guest]

I'm in the process of moving and some things are already packed and moved. Two of those items are my shop manual and remote starting switch (I don't like using a screwdriver). I wish both were here today.

I was told the carb came off of a 67 Mustang. The numbers stamped on the base are 7D<space>R. It's an Autolite 2100 for an automatic.

I fixed one leak from the fuel inlet. I had to use 3 adapters, #%@# Pep Boys didn't have the right one I needed. Now I have all of this extra plumbing sticking out of the front of the carb.

What are the proper float settings for a 66? I suspect they'll be close enough to get me going on the 67? carb.

It's still Nor'easter-ing out here. I may not be able to give an update until tomorrow. My 3 coats are soaked through. Time to give it a rest today.

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[RMoore]

When I rebuilt my Autolite 1100, I failed to notice the thin metal backing plate on the accelerator pump diaphragm. It was stuck to the old diaphragm and a new one did not come with the rebuild kit, nor was this part called out on any diagram in the kit or my shop manual. Leaving it off causes gas to squirt out the edges of the accel. pump diaphragm. You can see this by goosing the throttle with the engine off. Easy to check for, and easy to fix IF you saved the old diaphragm. It was someone else on VMF who pointed this out to me!!

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[Midlife]

The designation goes like C7DZ-X. For the 1966 2V applications, automatic, the wet float measurement is .750 to .875" down from the top of the housing to the level of the fuel, away from the walls. I'd try .750" first. I told you 1/8" was way too high!

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[Guest]

I reset the float level and fixed a leak with the connections to the carb in the feul line and everything works great.

Thanks for the help everyone! Geez Louise. I can't believe this post is so far back already. If you do happen to read it, thanks again.

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